Where, online, can I find a nice UK map with contour lines? Are they even alled contour lines? I've gone blank!!

[TooTicky]

Or, alternatively, who can find me some nice, fun-to-climb hills and mountains not too far from Wiltshire?

go to Wales - lots of mountains there

Yes, Wales is great, but if there was anywhere closer.... the less travelling time the better really.
Oh, and any mountains next to train stations would be perfect for car-free days

Try the ordnance survey website

have you been to White Horse Hill near Uffington? That's not far from Wiltshire

the white horse

Ordnance survey - great
We haven't been to Uffington, but we do go to the horse at Westbury. Thanks, good idea