Madeira recommendations (quirky and off the beaten track)

[Saturnista]

Hi, staying in Funchal for a week in June (18-25th). We are 57 and 65, reasonably fit and like discovering new places and meeting people. Staying in the hotel quarter just outside Funchal on a B&B basis.
lookimg for reasonably easy levadas to walk, funky places to eat and nice bars. We’d prefer to stay clear of the cruise ship crowds and really like using public transport. We love live music and beautiful views.

Cruise ship crowds are not around in the evenings.
The hotels often have a noticeboard in reception giving arrival/departure times of ships, so easy to avoid during the day as well.
There's a wide choice of restaurants, from Michelin * downwards.
The old town has a lot of international restos, I can't recommend any as they seem to change hands regularly.
Buses are very good - frequent & cheap.
It's a beautiful place, been 4 times & I'd happily go back.