We are just back from our 2 week trip - had such an amazing time I’m not quite sure how to summarise it!
Tokyo - 3 nights Asakusa with views of Senso-ji and only steps away was perfect for late-night snacks/bubble tea. We walked miles even in the heat (36!). Edo-Tokyo museum a great introduction to local history. Hakosai museum virtually next door if you are a fan - both v cheap and we did in a morning with our teen/tweens. We also took a boat from Asakusa to Odaiba which was a nice relaxing way to get some stunning views of the city and rest the legs. we also did the usual Akihabara, Ginza, Harajuku, Shibuya, the imperial gardens, Meiji shrine…
kyoto - 4 nights in Kabin Gion (super cheap, basic but v clean and fabulous location) - we all loved Kyoto (apart from the subway which was always packed) but we didn’t really do any of the hugely famous temples/sights…we were there for the end of Gion Matsuri - saw the floats up close on the first evening and then the final parade 2 days later - beautiful and loads of atmosphere! We went to some less popular temples like Chein-in and Shoren-in which were virtually deserted! Uji - beautiful temple, amazing ramen at Menya Inoichi (we were 3rd in the queue for when it opened!), saki museum and tasting with rice snacks in Fushimi…
Kanazawa - 3 nights, traditional-style Japanese house, amazing host got us reservations at a local hibachi BBQ restaurant. Loved Kanazawa as all a bit quieter and closer together. Gardens are stunning (pick up the leaflet in English at the gate and it tells you all about the important features). We covered their geisha district, samurais district, the ninja weapons museum, lots of craft shopping, the temple districts, the food market. The only thing we didn’t do which was on our list was cycling out to the port on the cycle way along the river as it was our only day of rain the entire holiday!
Hakuba - 3 nights in a ski chalet in echo land - I’d recommend staying in Happo or at the base of Iwatake mountain as these looked a bit nicer…Hakuba the town itself is not pretty and the summer season is still developing in popularity…we hiked, did downhill mountain biking, paddle boarded in Lake Aoki - all stunningly beautiful and a welcome change from sight-seeing, temples and shopping - my kids favourite days! We drove through Ogawa on our way back - one of “Japans most beautiful villages” - stunning view of the alps from the observatory, and griddled dumplings from an open fire
so many places I want to go to next…I’d also go in Summer again without hesitation. Yes it was hot but the crowds were less and there are so many summer festivals - we saw Gion matsuri and just missed fireworks festival in Kanazawa, and there was a big festival kicking off in Nagano the day we left…the shaved ice everywhere kept us going and we didn’t find it that bad (even when it was over 38 in Kyoto)
It took us a little while to get the hang of restaurants as a party of 5 with kids but if you identify a few places and go early we found some amazing options after a rough start!
I’d caution against too many stops as even once you get the hang of the tickets and stations you are spending several hours getting to/from stations - 4 felt like more than enough for us. Also if you are doing Eki-stamps look up the locations in the big stations or ask someone as they aren’t always obvious! Get a Goushin book for the temples and collect those for a special souvenir.
sorry for the essay!!