Stitch and bitch thread #11. Where the puns are only sew-sew

[NutellaEllaElla]

For sewists old and new. Join the fun, let us know what you're working on.
I apologise for not having been around at all. I've been away all footloose and fancy free but now i'm back and have NO NEED TO BUY NEW FABRIC. I must use what I have.

@PickAChew
@Hiddendoor
@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie
@OperationalSupport
@Daffyyellow
@ShoAndSew
@kittykarate
@RainbowWife
@GnomeDePlume
@Twobluechickens
@123ZYX
@BlackAmericanoNoSugar
@CrimsonAlligator
@Just4thisthreadtoday
@Frumpyunicorn
@Jins
@Lifesingflowers
@Yalz
@sewsewsewyourboat
@bookbook
@YellowAsteroid
@MarmiteWine
@Castlerigg
@IDareSay
@NotMeNoNo
@Toyotatallula
@Crispynoodle
@Hiddendoor
@Rosenspants
@TashaTudor
@InMySpareTime
@Isabelle70
@SpryCat
@Funnelfa
@OperationalSupport
@ChoccyJules
@Mygreyhair
@Marcipex
@DiggoryVenn
@ClearHoldBuild
@50IsTheNew21
@Heavybuthopeful
@HollyBerryz
@Chuchoter
@Placemats
@TorturedParentsDepartment
@PrincessDonut
@Shirtyllama

I find that with a lot of stores, @RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie - an awful lot of garish viscose prints. It's so much harder to find a proper cotton poplin (and not mis-labelled quilting cotton) or a decent trouser weight.

When I'm not after a knit, I end up buying mostly from Merchant and mills, The Draper's daughter and, despite the slowness, Croft Mill.

I've had such a lovely day. The number of fabric shops in Nottingham city centre is shrinking but Sherwood's/Lady McElroy have started doing the occasional open day at their warehouse. I wanted some grey fabric for a short coat and some indigo denim. Came away with some soft grey Abraham Moon melton wool, dark green viscose twill lining and the denim to attempt my first jeans.

Ooh @NotMeNoNo that sounds lovely! I’m not too far from Nottingham, any fabric shops you’d recommend? How do you find out about the warehouse open days?

There aren’t many fabric shops near me and the ones I’ve found just seem to sell quilting cotton and fat quarters. If it wasn’t for Abakhan I’d be buying everything online. Trouser weight fabric is particularly difficult to find.

@NotMeNoNo I’m about to tackle my first pair of jeans as well. I’ve not bought the final fabric yet but I’ve got some suitable toile fabric and the pattern is arriving today. I haven’t worn jeans for ten years or so but decided I needed to try them again only to discover that I’ve got a choice of high rise or no jeans. I’m not sure if I’ll wear them even if I make them myself but it’s something I want to try

The warehouse open days are announced on social media or possibly if you sign up to email newsletters.

To be fair in Nottingham there is still Creative Craft Corner (formerly on Victoria Market) on Queen Street. There's (what remains of) John Lewis in the city centre and a few out west like Sewing B in Stapleford and one or two in Beeston. And Boyes.

Long Eaton Art Room do periodic fabric sales as well https://www.longeatonartroom.co.uk/whats-available/events/
One coming up mid-October (they always schedule them just before pay day though)

Sewing machine shop in Beeston also sells some fabric but since I'm usually only in there lugging a delinquent machine in for surgery I've not had a chance to look properly yet.

Yes of course that's Sewing Direct, they are great for haberdashery and sewing machine accessories too.

Thank you @NotMeNoNo I’ve followed them now on instagram so hopefully I’ll be able to make it to the next one. I was in the John Lewis fabric department a few weeks ago and it was looking very sorry for itself - though I did get some nice light weight denim that I’ve used for my lane pants.

Talking of lane pants I’ve finished them and they’re a definite improvement on other elasticated waist trousers I’ve made. They’re a bit too high waisted (and I like a high waist!) and also the waistband finish makes them look a bit bulky. So I’m going to try taking the waistband off, removing an inch or so from the rise and then reattaching the waistband and finishing in a different way by folding under and stitching in the ditch so the bulk goes up instead of down if that makes sense…not sure I’ve explained that very well, I feel I’m lacking sewing terminology!

Well I’ve been measuring and comparing trousers that fit me well against the pattern pieces for the LN Legato jeans and I’ve been working my way through the fitting notes and I think I now have a plan. I’ll trace the pattern today at least. As with all LN patterns there are a couple of adjustments built in but I’m going to have to toile to see if I need to lower the rise at the back. I’m looking forward to a new challenge. I also need to work out if I can change the zip fly to a button fly due to my hatred of wearing clothes with zips. If all goes well I’ll be looking for some denim for the final version.

I’ve set myself the task of downloading all the patterns I’ve bought as there are a few still in various online accounts. I also need to rein in my impulse pattern purchases but I do love a sale or a free pattern.

I love making summer clothes but I’m never as enthusiastic about winter stuff so I’m expecting output to decrease.

I cut out my Ayora jacket on Monday, only to read the instructions and discover that I was supposed to add a further inch or so of seam allowance to the body and sleeves to allow for shrinkage when quilting.

Bugger.

Oh well, I’m going to run with it and hope for the best. I’m not intending to do loads of quilting on it anyway. And if it’s too small I can donate it to a friend.

This is why I’d be hopeless on the Sewing Bee - I never read through instructions before starting.

This is why I’d be hopeless on the Sewing Bee - I never read through instructions before starting.

I would have thought that was one of the main requirements!

I’ve made my adjustments to the lane pants and I’m happy with how they’ve turned out. It’s meant to be warm tomorrow so I’ll give them an outing and see how they get on. I’d love to make some tailored trousers (i.e. non-elasticated waist) or jeans but I don’t think I have the fitting skills. Looking forward to hearing how your jeans turn out @Jins

Has anyone ever tried one of the Guthrie Ghani kits? I was very tempted by the wool skirt this month but when I checked out it had gone in the colour-way I liked. I consoled myself by ordering some grey leopard print fabric and the Friday Pattern Company Bernadette skirt pattern instead 😍

Ha! I’d be too sweary for them 😁

I made one of the bag kits @SheSawSeaShore and it's been in almost daily use for 18 months, now. It's a useful way to get everything together. The kit included universal needles for dense waxed canvas, so naturally I used something more appropriate. The hints and tips videos are useful but can be a bit breathless!

I’m ready to cut them out @SheSawSeaShore but I’m not confident at all. I’m basically a cylinder shape with skinny legs and hips. Based on body and finished pattern measurements I need a size 16 waist graded to size 2 hips and my thigh and calf measurements are below size 0. I think the resulting jeans are going to fit as badly as shop bought ones but I’ll have a go at a toile.

I’m making Love Notions legato jeans which coincidentally is their feature Friday pattern today. It comes with a fitting workbook as most of their fitted trousers do which is helpful but still doesn’t address a 7 size disparity. I chose them because they are designed to fit below waistline and they have straight and curvy options built in but I’m pretty sure they’ll end up in the bin.

The jeans project has been shelved, possibly forever.

I chose the Legato pattern because it has a built in flat butt adjustment and because it’s designed to hit below belly button. I’ve toiled a shorts version and basted it to check fit and the back reaches the height I’d want it without the back yoke being attached. I’ve looked at the sort of adjustment I’d need to make and it’s going to spoil the lines at the back. To add to my displeasure size 2 is too big in the hips and thighs which I find ludicrous.

I think my best bet might be to look for a pattern for men and see what the sizing looks like on them

Just popping in to ask a quick question if anyone can help. whenever I use the straight stretch stitch on my machine my top thread keeps breaking. I prefer this stitch to plain zigzag when doing stretch materials as I feel it holds better, but the breakage every 30 seconds is too frustrating. I tried swapping thread but it still kept happening. Does anyone have any idea why this might be? Thanks.

@HollyBerryz perhaps there’s something sharp along the thread that only catches under tension. If you have very fine wire like metal thread, you could stitch a short line of straight stitch with it to smooth out the route a bit and dislodge anything catching the thread.

Have you changed your needle recently? Using quality needles? I only ask because I tried some ‘Pony’ needles recently and they lived up to their name (if you know your rhyming slang 😁)

(Schmetz and Hemline needles with Gutermann thread all the way here)

I think I need to do the same with jeans, @jins - I get a lot of improvement in fit by adjusting the crotch curve to fit my tilted pelvis but adjusting them to fit my rabbit arse and the apron at high hip level just makes them look weird.

I did realise after posting I didn't have a ball point needle in, so maybe it was that? Rookie error!

I’m intrigued by your rabbit arse, @PickAChew ! What do you mean?

@HollyBerryz that might help, definitely worth a try!

Very skinny, @twobluechickens 🤣

Oh I see! I had visions of a fluffy white tail 😂