Stitch and bitch thread #11. Where the puns are only sew-sew

[NutellaEllaElla]

For sewists old and new. Join the fun, let us know what you're working on.
I apologise for not having been around at all. I've been away all footloose and fancy free but now i'm back and have NO NEED TO BUY NEW FABRIC. I must use what I have.

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The seam allowance is the bit between the two dotted lines. The inner line is where you sew.
The outer one is what you cut.

@Daisiesanddaffodils24this is a screenshot from Simoly Sewing (I don’t have Love Sewing, so this is just an example). Your pattern will probably say something like this - it it does, you don’t need to add extra.

i don't think so? that looked like a multi size pattern, and if the SA is included you trace off the size you want and then cut, and sew with 5/8".

Yes, the different dotted lines are different sizes but the bit that says SA 5/8" is telling you the seam allowance for that seam.

Some patterns have smaller seam allowances for fiddly and curved seams like neckline and armscye so check your instructions for any variation. I do that even with patterns I could sew in my sleep because it saves a lot of frustration.

Thanks everyone and sorry for the hassle The instruction booklet dosn't seem to mention cutting out or seam allowance with regard to cutting out anywhere. It is a multi size pattern so I was just going to cut out my size and hope for the best (it is free material I was given so not a disaster if it dosn't work out).

Most patterns include seam allowance, these days. There's only really fibre mood and burda magazine patterns that I've come across that don't.

Does the pattern have finished garment measurements? If so, you could cross-reference those with the actual pattern measurements and that will tell you if seam allowances are included.

Ah, good one. Hadn't thought of that - thank you!

I made some trousers and a top from a zero waste pattern book https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zero-Waste-Blocks-Wardrobe-Paperless/dp/1787139247

Trousers are fine (though the patch pockets are a faff) but the top is very much droopy librarian.

I always think the concept of zero waste is laudable but ending up with a garment that fits like a sack defeats the object to me. It just means that, rather than throwing scraps of fabric away, or into a scrap bag, you wear them, bulging out in odd places, instead.

Agreed on the zero waste being a bit of a con. Though I did get 2 pairs of simple trousers and 1 top from the same 3m of material but I wouldn't say they are well fitting/stylish.

I try to be zero waste by hoarding my scraps. I've just made two fabric pumpkins- stuffed fat quarters with all the odd scrappy bits I've collected over the last year or so. They aren't essential things, but at least the scraps aren't headed for landfill...

My scraps went into a pouffe. Pouf? Anyway, one of them squishy things wot you put yer feet on.

I’ve finished my davenport dress. It’s the 5th version I’ve made and every time I think I should figure out how to do an FBA without a dart but then don’t. It fits fine, just a bit of pooling at the back but no-one would notice except me. Maybe next time!

I’ve also done my lane pants toile which ended up being shorts as I didn’t have enough fabric for trousers. I really like the fit - I think…hard to be sure as they’re a bit big. I thought that might happen, I can’t be bothered to toile again so going to size down and go for it. Definitely prefer them to the simplicity pants I’ve made before. I also had fun with the one of the embroidery stitches on my machine, really pleased with how it turned out.

Interesting to read views on zero waste patterns. I also love the concept but don’t think the fit would work for me. I watched a really good YouTube video where someone made a zero pattern and had the same issue. I’m intrigued by the pouffe idea! Is it very heavy?

Zero waste video if anyone’s interested…

Please can I join? I have just spotted this thread and I love reading about what people are making! I’m sewing lots of bum / cross body bags at the moment.

Welcome @paintyhands !

I was going to make a new outfit for a wedding this weekend but decided to wear something I’ve already got rather than cause myself massive stress due to limited time. I’m definitely maturing 😂

Welcome, @paintyhands !

Nice, @SheSawSeaShore -for that dress you would work out your dart then rotate it out to make the front a little more flared. The fullness would be gathered in with the waist ties.

Welcome @paintyhands. I’ve got a box of fabric set aside to make bags and to date I’ve not made a single bag. I like the sound of crossbody bags though.

I’m back from my hols and the 10+ degree temperature drop has reminded me that I need to get on with some warmer clothes. I ordered some buy two get one free lengths of viscose jersey from PAM which turned up yesterday and funnily enough it’s not what I expected. Viscose jersey can be so flimsy and drapey and this is not. It looks an awful lot like the stuff they make sportswear from and I got three really useful colours so I’m going to trawl through my patterns at the weekend.

Trousers first though. Having adjusted Poppy pants to fit well it’s time to do the same with my other favourites -LN allegros. I need some warmer casual trousers for wearing round the house so I’ll be shopping the stash again and no doubt regretting some impulse buys.

welcome! am looking for a good pattern for a cross body bag, can you recommend one?

That's the same book I used. There is a tiered skirt that looks more wearable, but that one in the video really set off my alarm bells. One thing that's weird about the book, is the models are often wearing a sleeveless top, which isn't actually included/explained in the book

Things I like about 'zero waste'

• feels virtuous
• no paper patterns to trace/project

Bad things

• Really weird fit and shapes

I've got a bit hacked off with tracing off patterns, so next up for me is something from Cris Wood Sews - maybe the Garden Dress. Hers are 'low waste' so I'm hoping some of the waste is actually going to be involved in giving wearable shapes.

Or I might just go rogue and make up one of the big 4 patterns that I bought recently.. I have some 'cord' effect jersey that would make some nice loungewear leggings.

Zero waste is a lovely idea, but…if something doesn’t fit well, it’ll end up at the back of my wardrobe unworn. That’s more wasteful than the few scraps I’m left with when I make something that actually fits.

I personally don’t think hobbies should come with feelings of guilt. But if we want to do “the right thing” there are choices we can make that are a lot more impactful than using up a few scraps, e.g. using deadstock fabric, mending, making things we know we need/ are actually going to wear.

Great post.

I've been to Guthrie and Ghani today and managed to leave with just one fabric, some Kylie and the Machine labels and some elastic. It's a lovely shop, but a lot of their fabric choices are too twee and colourful for me tbh.