Stitch and bitch thread #8. It’s all starting to unravel

[NutellaEllaElla]

Welcome back and welcome for the first time to any newbies. As we go back into autumn/winter mode, sewing days are more and more appealing as the wind gales outside. I enjoyed looking back over the last thread, there were so many beautiful patterns (so little time), such beautiful makes, that thread is an absolute goldmine for inspiration. Also such wisdom from you lovely lot! Thank you. I couldn't do it without you actually as no one around me sews and you have imparted such great advice, hints and tips.

@PickAChew
@kittykarate
@TragicMuse
@SBAM
@pastabest
@Jins
@Blackamericanonosugar
@CrimsonAlligator
@SleepingisanArt
@dubyalass
@Brefugee
@InMySpareTime
@Rosenspants
@rivercobbler
@Karatema
@bookbook
@Sewingdufus
@FletchingStraight
@SideWonder
@CarolynKnappShappy
@Chewbecca
@eldorado02
@PrincessofWellies
@123ZYX
@Storynanny1
@Tinuviel
@Wildernesstips
@Dellabob123
@florentini
@longpathtohappiness
@twobluechickens

@Dellabob123 can you post a sketch, I can't quite picture what you have in mind.

I sew a lot of stretch - trouble is , it always curls on the hems , no matter what you do . I tend to twin needle mine , but if you want a totally plain neckline , maybe wonderweb would work ( I have used wonderweb to applique onto stretch , and it stays stuck IYSWIM

I don't know if this helps , but I always iron a strip of stretch lightweight interfacing to hems of knit fabrics before stitching. I've found it makes for a better finish.

Do you find that there’s much difference in the amount of curling between different knits @bookbook? My only recent experience with sewing stretch fabric was something that was 95% cotton, which was a really stable fabric and not a huge amount of curling. It sounds like that’s not the usual experience with stretch fabrics?

I don't struggle too much with hem curl on my stretch knits (though obviously I will now I've doomed myself). I do a double turn hem and zig-zag. I've never tried to make a V neck though - maybe that way madness lies.

I only use 95/5 cotton lycra , but it does come in a range if weights ( anything from 160gm to 240 gm ) I have found the heavier weight curls less , its just the very edge tends to want to curl , however much you press or steam it .It isnt an issue for me on inside seams ( I dont have an overlocker ) , just when you want a nice flat finish

Thanks for clarifying @bookbook, that makes sense. Come to think of it, the same thing happens when you hand knit something (unless you use a special stitch for edging). Think it’s something to do with the two stitches that usually make up a knit fabric not using an identical length of yarn, so the fabric always ends up pulling a bit to the wrong side.

@MontyDonsBlueScarf now that’s a good question. In my head it looks amazing, the sketch, not so much ! Please don’t laugh. Scruffy sketch and maybe not clear but it is a v neck, just my sketchy lines.

the fabric I’m looking at is 94% cotton rest Lycra and is about 215 gsm. Would that be ok do you think?

I keep looking at any jersey items to see the necklines and most have about an inch turned under.

I can feel myself shrinking away from this project already….

My most successful jersey hems/necklines have been with 1.5 cm turned up and twin needled at about 1.25cm. Test first because some fabric doesn’t behave and in that case try a narrow zigzag. Or any stretch stitch you have that works.

I’m pausing my toiling of the top because I desperately need a couple of sleeved tops to stop people looking at me as if I’m weird wandering round in sleeveless tops when they are bundled up in their October wardrobe. It’s time for Remy raglan.

I know I had to size down for the SH7 Sauvie but the finished garment size looks immense on the Remy. How did those that have made it find the finished top?

@Dellabob123 Are you thinking something like this tshirt neckline? If so, Jalie publishes their (admittedly sparse) instructions online so that might give you a construction hint. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0267/4075/2568/files/product_printing_guide_2805.pdf?v=1607559572

Oh what a great thread (pun completely intended) following for tips and ideas :)

If it’s stretch hems that are curling try turning at least an inch. I sew hems with a coverstitch but 2 parallel lines of stitching works well.

Welcome @subolooo are you working on any projects at the moment?

@Dellabob123 if you don't need to stretch it to get it over your head, your favourite finish should work just fine. Mine is to use iron on interfacing like a facing, sew, edge stitch, turn and only then iron down. Catches all the loose ends securely between the layers, without any extra bulk.

I’ve just dug out some crepe of unknown composition to toile a Remy raglan. It doesn’t make my hair stand on end when I rub it so hopefully it’ll be wearable at the end.

Going down 3 (!) sizes gives me 6” of ease at the bust. Should be plenty? Or is there something I’ve missed?

Internal monologue at the moment:

Me: Sew Direct has Vogue Patterns at half price for a week.
Also Me: But I have a bookcase full of patterns going back to 1975. I don't need any more
Me: But they're half price
Sensible me: Get off the internet & get back to work.

@NutellaEllaElla Thank you. I've just taken up embroidery and have completed a very small kit which I found very relaxing and kept me busy too, it wasnt perfect but I'm proud of my first attempt. I've just started an autumn one with lovely leaves and pumpkins too.

That’s sounds lovely@subolooo love a bit of embroidery…I have an incomplete floral one. I sometimes get overwhelmed with all the crafts and not enough time.
I have embroidery, crochet, sewing and felting to do.

thanks for all the jersey tips. I’m now mulling it over and whilst I do, I’ve started shortening some lovely needle chord trousers that I got a couple of years ago. Want them cropped so I can wear nice boots and big jumpers with. Feels good!

@Jins I’m sure someone on our previous threads made the Remy, and advised going down 1-2 sizes. Its on my very very long list of things to make, but I’ve just rechecked my measurements - high bust has me in a 12, full bust a 14, I think I was going to try making a 10, and that would give me 7” of ease.

I feel like the crazy ease has been mentioned when I’ve seen people post it on Instagram too.

@Dellabob123 jersey bias binding can be bought online, so you could always bias face your neckline edges? Turned edges can be tricky to get sharp points with on v-necks.

@SBAM similar measurements. High bust just over a 12 and full bust 14. I’ve traced a size 10 plain front and see where I end up it looks straightforward to take in each seam if necessary

I think I've upset someone.... I've not been getting notifications that this thread has been updating and you've been chatting away quite happily! Given up on clothes for now and am returning to my comfort zone of bears and other creatures.... I wonder if I should prepare for winter with some draught excluders - might be fun.

@subolooo , I've never tried embroidery either but have admired many Pinterest inspirations. Like you @Dellabob123 - too many projects, too little time.
Oh I'm glad you remembered us @SleepingisanArt. At this time of year, I usually start wondering how I could make a Christmas wreath out of fabric Brussel sprouts. Last year I tried and failed gluing green felt circles to a foam ball. It just wouldn't stick.

Don’t get me started on too many hobbies, too little time! I bought a book on bookbinding last week and am now desperate to make a notebook, but also want to finally make some more progress with my shirt.

Speaking of which, I made use of the 20% off everything offer on the Minerva website last week and bought some more shirt fabric. I’ve thrown caution (and the undoubtedly sound advice I received on the previous thread) to the wind and did buy myself some dark brown needlecord, as well as some Oxford in an unusual combination of colours (coral and bottle green- lovely 😋 ).

Aargh. The remy toile won’t be wearable. I’ve just done that thing with the overlocker where you don’t check that fabric isn’t caught.

Size 10 is ok. Luckily I checked. The crepe isn’t very drapey so I think I’ll crack on with some decent fabric