Stitch and bitch thread #4 I needle the help I can get.

[NutellaEllaElla]

Continuing our supportive little group until we run out of material

That's magic when it doesn't need any adjustments!

So I've been going ok with sewing my silky fabric but now it's come to seeing up the side seams I'm having a bit of difficulty. Firstly, what do you do when they don't match up? The front leg is longer than the back, not by loads but there's a step between them

Secondly, as they didn't line up so well I planned to ease it in. That worked fine when pinned but when it came to sewing up, it hasn't gone so well and now I've got a fold in the fabric where one side hasn't lined up flat with the other if you know what I mean. Now what do I do?

@NutellaEllaElla I usually just trim them level, but I’m 100% sure that’s not the proper way to do things.

For the fold I normally unpick an inch or so either side and then re-sew. I’ve found putting the longer side (ie that needs to be eased) underneath where it’ll be moved by the feed dogs seems to help it ease in better.

As long as the notches line up I just ignore any difference at the end and hem it level.

honestly... sounds like you need to unpick and do that seam again. Sorry!

I think you need to unpick to sort the fold sadly NutellaElla How much to unpick will depend how big the fold is - if it's just a mm then probably only a couple of inches, you should be able to ease it, anything larger, then the whole seam from crotch to ankle.. I ignore slightly wonky hems as long as the hip/waist/knee notches line up. This is because I've traced the pattern usually, so there has been space for some human error in there on my part.

Ok, in which case i'll unpick from the fold all the way down to the hem and won't try to ease it in when I sew it back up, I will just straighten up the hem later.

I’ve finished the bodice of McCalls 7969. There’s an awful lot of gathering at the top of the sleeve and while one side is great the other is a bit bumpy so I’m going to do a bit of hand stitching to flatten it down a bit.

But those sleeves! I love them!

Just the skirt to go and that’ll be quick as I intend to do the gathering on the overlocker.

Lander shorts finished! I've no idea what I did with the waistband because it was at least three inches too short when I pinned it on. Had to cut it in half and add an extra strip in the middle, but it looks intentional so that's ok. Sewed the buttons on this evening - not my best work but it's a wearable toile so I don't really care. Now I feel confident to make the trouser version in the proper fabric, though I will probably swap to a sloping waistband rather than the straight one, so it fits better, and add extra inches at either end just in case.

They look so smart and super cute. In going to Google sloping waistband.

Thanks! I'm really pleased with them. Do I mean a curved waistband? Probably the standard type of waistband. It was late last night and my words weren't working any more 😁 took me a day to remember what the Taj Mahal was called after seeing it on TV. Damn menopause brain.

They look great @dubyalass. I really like True Bias patterns but so far I’ve only made the Ogden.

I’m pleased with how my hand stitching flattened down the shoulder on my dress. It may not survive a wash but it doesn’t matter too much. I had to gather 30cm of fabric into a 4cm space.

Very pretty! I hand stitched the top seam on a jumpsuit last night and I'm a bit concerned it might not last 😬

I've also made the Ogden but the neckline doesn't really suit me, so I might try hacking it into a square neck. I also think I need to size up next time as it's a little tight across the bust. I downloaded a couple of free or v cheap cami tops last week so will try them when I have a moment and report back.

My first Ogden felt a little tight across the bust so I shortened the shoulder straps slightly. I didn’t bother taking it apart, I just folded the strap down at the back and stitched it in place. It’s surprising what a difference it made

Dress complete! Just the tidying ends up left to do and I’ll fix the wrap with a couple of stitches at some point.

This is the polar opposite of my normal sleeveless, below knee dresses. It’s well above knee length and the sleeves are humongous.

If you haven't already tried it the Fibremood Norma blouse has similar sleeves and is very hackable into other things as well

Thanks for that. I’ve saved that for the future.

DH is away until Sunday and I’m going to try to get a few more things ticked off my list. I still have a lot of biggish remnants that I need to be creative with and I’ve fallen in love with cami tops so that may be where they end up

the Fibremood Norma actually uses less fabric than e.g an Ogden. I can usually just squeeze one out of 1m fabric and I'm towards the top of the size range.

That’s it then. A good enough excuse to buy another pattern 🤣

I've made a couple of Norma's too. There's a good sew along on their website as well. That McCall's dress is really lovely @Jins, I'm a big fan of that look. I've a couple of summery cotton RTW dresses in a similar style (each worn no more than twice), but can see it in a drapey viscose for the autumn with thick tights and boots.

My sewing machine as miraculously sorted itself out! I had spent a good few hours trying to get it to pick up the bobbin stitch thinking I had a timing issue, then when I tried it before taking it to get repaired it was absolutely fine. I'm delighted but it's a complete mystery how it's resolved itself without me doing anything. I'm make a waffle cotton robe now.

Payday today so I have splashed out on fabric: new tops for work, top and trousers for a wedding, fun fabric for something for a great niece, Christmas cushion covers.

I am going to be getting a sewing room! It is also student DD's bedroom a few weeks of the year but I can share!

@Ulysses I’ve made this in a very fine viscose because I wasn’t brave enough for all those gathers in a more structured fabric. It’s settling down nicely into drapes. I hadn’t thought about it before but you’re absolutely right - thick tights and boots and I’m set for autumn. There’s no way on earth that a coat will go over these sleeves though so I’ll have to go down the dramatic shawl route 🤣

Good to hear about your sewing machine. I wish my car would take some tips from it

@Ulysses I think the secret is sometimes to let the sewing machine sit quietly and have a little think about what it has done.

That or all the opening, closing and trying to work it out mechanically has dislodged a little wad of fluff.

Congratulations on your own sewing space @GnomeDePlume !

I hear capes are back in fashion this autumn @Jins .

Oh yay! That's very exciting @GnomeDePlume !

This silky fabric is kicking my arse. I thought i'd sewn the trouser legs up, overlocked it only to find another fold under the pocket. I'm not sure of my next move so am going to approach it tomorrow.

Ive heard of people using spray starch on slippery fabrics to make them easier to manage but I've not tried it personally.

I just use lots and lots of very sharp pins.