Stitch and bitch thread #4 I needle the help I can get.

[NutellaEllaElla]

Continuing our supportive little group until we run out of material

@Jins and @kittykarate thank you that's very reassuring! Good point about the ease, there appears to be 3 inches of ease in the pattern. So i'll hold off taking it down a size until i've finished adjusting the rise and completing the toile.

New (to me) sewing machine has arrived but missing a few parts (standard foot, power lead and thread spool pins). It was an ebay purchase from someone clearing the home of DMIL gone into a care home. I don't think they knew anything about sewing machines and just bundled up everything sewingy.

Thankfully all missing parts are readily available and are on order. In the mean time I can cannibalise my current machine.

Really looking forward to trying it out this afternoon.

@NutellaEllaElla yes, the pattern said 1” below natural waist so I worked with that. Bear the seam allowance in mind too.

I recently made the Bob pants by Style Arc, which have an elasticated waist. They look massive but once the waistband was fixed, they’re quite a normal fit. I could probably have sized down if I wanted them slightly more fitted. I also hate anything tightly elasticated around my waist so made them slightly lower with the elastic slightly looser.

Fuck me i've just finished the toile and I started at 8.50am this morning. No breaks except time taken to eat lunch.

2.5 inches of rise and 3 inches of length in the leg added.The trousers look horrible in my stiff fabric, i'm hoping they look beautiful and flowy in my silky fabric. Oh i've just remembered its silky fabric. The hard work hasn't begun yet has it...

I did have to cut new front panels.

I was wondering, is there s reason I shouldn't cut my front and back pieces on the fold? I'll have to pattern match across the middle if not.

Scratch that, the pattern pieces just aren't going to be compatible with that.

It looks like i'm using this place to unload a stream of consciousness but i'm not i promise!

However, i'm wondering if people just give up on the idea of pattern matching with trousers or what do you do? My print is quite large.

I don't pattern match because I'm quite curvy so it never all lines up, but I do try to keep it symmetrical and make sure any glaring patterny bits aren't right on the centre seams.

Thank you that is very sensible and helpful.

You can’t cut front and back on the fold but you can eliminate the side seam by joining the two pattern pieces and cutting as one.

I’ve only done this once and it was in stretch fabric. I think I prefer a side seam

When making DH's deckchair jacket (very strong stripe) l deliberately didn't pattern match. I was concerned that getting it a little bit wrong would be more annoying on the eye than deliberately not matching.

I have finished my jacket. I wanted a very simple shape as all the 'talking' was being done by the fabric. It is very light but I added some extra structure by binding all the seams.

Yes, for some reason the idea of the sides being on the fold feels weird to me.

@NutellaEllaElla you can’t cut the sides on the fold. You have to join the front and back to make one massive pattern piece and cut that out. You may find you don’t have enough width in the fabric to do it

I wasn’t keen on the end result but as it was for short leggings it worked ok. I think wovens need the seams to hang better

Yes sorry I did picture it my head right but didn't say it correctly.

@GnomeDePlume i love the jacket. It’s right in my colour palette

Lovely jacket, @GnomeDePlume ! It's a beautiful fabric.

Closet Core Sallie jumpsuit finished, in a bamboo jersey. A bit of a faff on the neckline, and I had to take about 5 -6 inches off the leg length.

I will probably make the maxi dress version soon.

Wow looks great @kittykarate! The neckline looks lovely, worth the effort.

I cut my fabric pieces out and made a start on sewing up the crotch and pocket bags. I can't find my interfacing so will need to buy some but won't need it until near the end.

@kittykarate and @GnomeDePlume two fantastic makes. I love the colours of the jacket, too.

I recently finished a top in a fabric with about a 3’ by 4’ pattern repeat. I simply paid attention to placement, avoiding any unfortunate titty flowers. The fine striped jersey I’m currently cutting out is proving more of a nightmare. It’s just ever so slightly skewed, so despite my best efforts to wrestle it square and use rulers and construction lines and, obviously, cut it flat, the two pieces I’ve cut, so far, are slightly on the wonk.

Oh, sew house seven have just released a bra friendly maxi dress. I think it even has the option of a bra strap retainer to stop them slipping across your shoulders and peeing out.

Unfortunate Titty Flowers sounds like a shoegazing band from the early 90s 😁

I've spent the weekend making a New Look top and the Lander shorts. The shorts are halfway done and an easy make if you've ever done jeans. Managed an invisible zip in the top without completely ballsing it up.

I had a burst of sewing activity yesterday afternoon and managed to cut out the dress for my friend’s party. Back to plan one and the Statement Sleeve

I’ve got the bodice together and one of the sleeves. You would not believe how big the sleeves are!

Better peeing out than in!

I finished my jacket using my new sewing machine. All fine.

The only problem is that the new machine is missing its thread pins. Seller warned me and I said 'no problem'. Now I can't find spares! They aren't standard. DH has cobbled something for me and I will phone a Singer specialist today.

Just tried on my Lander shorts to check the fit before sewing up the sides and they're absolutely perfect! I took a punt on the final garment measurements matching my actual measurements* and they looked like I'd never get my ample backside in, but all is well. Phew. Just the waistband, hem and buttons to add tomorrow evening.

I say "took a punt" because the Big 4 patterns seem to have huge amounts of ease, so I generally size down a bit, but I'm never quite sure what size to make even if I use the finished measurements as a guide. Anyway, looks like adding an inch to the rise is just about perfect.