Stitch and bitch thread #2. Sewing aficionados gather here!

[IDontMindMarmite]

The previous thread is coming up to capacity and as ever your wisdom, screw ups and accomplishments are appreciated!

Thanks!

@PickAChew @drspouse I’ve just checked the finished measurements chart and there’s approx 4” of ease in the hip and the bib section gets half an inch wider per size. Because of the shape it’s very easy to grade from the bib to bigger/smaller waist/hip if needed, and I expect to grade from a larger size bib to smaller shoulders if you were only going one or two sizes up/down. Having re-read the instructions perhaps my insistence on going off-piste with fabric choice is why I’m not convinced with my last one (made it in ponte knit).

Yeah, some of the knit or stretch ones I saw didn't really work. The best ones I saw were pretty stiff fabrics. It benefits from some structure so it can achieve a balloon effect. I have some sevenberry kasuri cotton that would probably work brilliantly

I dug out the fabric that I thought I’d use for the laundry day tee but I don’t think it will work. The pattern calls for 40% 4 way stretch. This is 2 way and barely 30%, probably less if I test it properly. So back to the drawing board for that one.

I tend to store my chosen pattern with its fabric in a sort of physical to do list. So on to the final run with the button up dress. A good pressing first then hemming and button band. Then ten buttonholes which will have to wait until I’ve made a final decision on buttons.

Happy weekending all. Wish me luck for my sleeves and hidden zip! I'll start again tomorrow, not sure which i'm doing first and if i'll even get to both this weekend as i'm very slowly and meticulously plodding through. They scare me a fair bit!

Oh heck, that's if i get past threading up and learning how to use the overlocker!

[quote drspouse]@Allgirlskidsanddogs and anyone else, how does the York Pinafore look on people who are a bit busty but not that large overall?
I love the idea but I'm about a UK size 14 and the pictures all are of someone who either IS or LOOKS a good deal larger than me and I don't want to look any larger![/quote]
I love the York Pinafore, I’ve made 4 this autumn/winter. I’m busty and plus size so can’t really comment on a smaller lady.

I read a lot before making. I didn’t need to lengthen the straps to accommodate my bust. I improvised on the neckline and drew it about halfway between the 2 from the pattern, I haven’t altered it for the 3 subsequent ones. I found it was several inches too big, I think I slimmed it by about 4 inches (having made the size suggested from my measurements). I was perplexed by the binding, but having done it once I love it!

I prefer the 2 pockets sewn into the side seam then the central one. My favourites are made from chunky corduroy.

Hope my jumbled thoughts might be helpful!

Sewed on trousers waistband.
Decided it needed adjusting. Unpicked it.
Sewed it back on the wrong way out.

Only finished the hem today. Tried a few ways with the machine and there was just too much puckering. The only stitch that worked was the narrowest zig zag. I could have tried twin needle but I cut my losses and hand sewed it. Very satisfying and the result is great but it took ages.

Couldn’t face button band and buttonholes today.

@drspouse

Sewed on trousers waistband. Decided it needed adjusting. Unpicked it. Sewed it back on the wrong way out.

That's exactly the kind of thing I would do.

Now I have to find some time away from the DCs to sew it back on again...

Phew! It's another day of firsts for me. Thank you YouTube for the tutorials. I have threaded and used the overlocker for the first time and have attached one sleeve to my dress. I had to unpick and re pin but it's turned out miraculously well considering a. I've never done one before and b. I re drafted the pattern to make a completely different sleeve. I'm not sure when this happened, I think it might be a side seam allowance issue, but the bodice feels perilously tighter than the toile. After I affix the invisible zip, if it's too small I'll be able to let it out at the side seams hopefully.

Both sleeves attached.

By the way, the instructions have me putting in the invisible zip at the end of the whole process. The lady in the haberdashery shop said to do the zip before the side seams. I've been reluctant to stray from the letter of the instructions as it is my first time so I have sewn the side seams already, but as I mentioned, I might need to unpick them anyway. What would you do?

I used to do the zip before the side seams but it’s been ages so I can’t remember if that’s what the instructions said or not.

Four buttonholes complete out of the ten. The level of disturbance was high today - I swear my sewing machine is a klaxon for the menfolk in the house. I’ve spent a relaxing time tucking ends in. I usually snip them but decided to go old school with this dress.

How long does it take you to do a button hole?

The actual buttonhole is very quick as the machine does it. It’s the measuring and checking and psyching myself up to it that takes the time. I’ve learned through experience that it’s a job I can’t rush

My buttonhole attachment is really whizzy!

I got the trouser waistband back on the right way round. Yay me!

Some neatening and hems to do. They are pretty nice trousers though I say so myself. They actually fit...

Yes, psyching oneself up for challenging tasks is maybe the hardest part of sewing so far

As this is the first time I've overlocked, I'd like to check with you. Does this look normal? It doesn't look as neat as the pictures online. It looks kind of loose/baggy? I've used 3 threads.

Something very wrong there. Any reason you aren't using 4 threads?

Someone mentioned that if i'm just finishing raw edges there was no need for 4...

Definitely not right. Maybe your looper tension.

But, based on having done it myself...did you remember to drop your presser foot?

I'll try 4 threads and maybe it'll be better. Or maybe it's a dud machine and is why it was being sold on facebook marketplace.

Yes the presser foot was dropped. The tensions are all set to 3.