Stitch and bitch thread #2. Sewing aficionados gather here!

[IDontMindMarmite]

The previous thread is coming up to capacity and as ever your wisdom, screw ups and accomplishments are appreciated!

I think they probably just go as far as the seam allowance

Welcome @SeeyouontheothersideofCovid please don't mind my incessant newbie questions

So, overlocker enthusiasts. Where a pattern says to sew a side seam for example, and to press the seams open. Would you just use your overlocker and press the seam to one side?

If it's a straight seam I overlock first then press open.
Curved seams overlock after sewing.

Overlock then press to the side if necessary. It sometimes isn't, depends what I'm making. I'm pretty gung-ho though - my princess seams get done on the machine and clipped but most other stuff goes through the overlocker. But then even my t-shirt side seams are curved - joys of being many different sizes!

That makes sense Statistically.

I'm getting ahead of myself here, but what fabric would you use for pockets? I was considering using the old pillow case that i'm using to toile the bodice, but am having second thoughts as I don't want it to show? Would you use the dress fabric?

Depends on thickness tbh. I'm making joggers just now in a modal French terry and just using the main for the pockets. For a heavy fabric like a wool skirt I sometimes use the lining instead as you can end up with too many layers. Bits I'd say I most commonly use the main

Ok thanks.

So I finished the toile bodice. It is too big by about an inch however, I'm thinking that the invisible zip will take up around that amount when being sewn in?

@drspouse when you say you overlock first then press open, are you overlocking each fabric piece separately? Rather than combining the two (after which I can’t see how you would press open)? Thanks for dealing with my silly question!

Yes, for straight edges it's easier to finish them before sewing the seam.

@IDontMindMarmite

Ok thanks.

So I finished the toile bodice. It is too big by about an inch however, I'm thinking that the invisible zip will take up around that amount when being sewn in?

Pin it together along the zip seam lines, don't forget the overlap, and make sure you can breathe and move your arms.

Sorry, invisible zip. Pin together along the fold lines.

@IDontMindMarmite

That makes sense Statistically.

I'm getting ahead of myself here, but what fabric would you use for pockets? I was considering using the old pillow case that i'm using to toile the bodice, but am having second thoughts as I don't want it to show? Would you use the dress fabric?

If the dress fabric isn't too thick, otherwise just use it on the back of the pocket, as that's the most likely to show, and use lining or cotton for the front.

I think I shall be adjusting this when I trace off the pattern pieces for this one. Crikey. 🧐

Gosh yes! When I use the P&P alterations method it suggests 1"' for a first try.

I can't remember how to quote, but to whoever said make sure you can breathe and move your arms - I'll add, 'and sit down, and cross/uncross your legs'!

It's amazing how different the fit of a dress is standing vs sitting.

I've just made one for which I made a toile, but it's still slightly large. I'm going to just nip in the side seams slightly (as it only needs a small adjustment). If you know it's likely to be slightly too big, think now about where you can tweak if needed, before you start on the proper one.

Yes I think side seams would be the easiest way as the darts will already be in.

Hell yes to bending. I once stupidly made leggings from 2 way stretch scuba - lots of patterns say 4 way when 2 way is fine. Not leggings. It's like a straight jacket for the knees!

@ChoccyJules what happened with that top that went so wrong?

Oh yes, and 2 way stretch leggings FALL DOWN.

Do you reckon you could make fleece lined leggings as PJ bottoms?

@IDontMindMarmite

Do you reckon you could make fleece lined leggings as PJ bottoms?

Look at alpine fleece - tfg sell it. Stretchy, looks like a jersey on one side but is ultra soft and fluffy on the other. And it does have some vertical stretch as well as loads of horizontal

@drspouse

Oh yes, and 2 way stretch leggings FALL DOWN.

Mine are ok that way - they're the apostrophes custom ones so the waistband fits well. Just don't bend the knees

Alpine fleece sounds dreamy. I just put in an order from TFG and they dispatched it within a couple of days. I'm going to attempt some cosy trousers with their jegging denim look ponte and a big snuggly red cardigan with their faux angora. Very excited! Still have to finish the baby rompers first though. I'm going to try appliqué babycord hearts on the knees and maybe the bottom ♥
@IDontMindMarmite I have done inseam pockets with contrasting fabric/an old sheet and with understitching the seam turns inwards so you can't see the pocket fabric at all.

I have some of their stretch jegging on my table just now. And an order on the way- they seem a bit low on stock just now (brexit seems to be causing fabric supply issues) but their plain cotton lycra and French terry are very good and they normally have good colours.

I have a Rebecca page cape sweater in the faux angora hanging on my dummy waiting to be pressed