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Stitch and bitch thread #2. Sewing aficionados gather here!

998 replies

IDontMindMarmite · 01/02/2021 13:51

The previous thread is coming up to capacity and as ever your wisdom, screw ups and accomplishments are appreciated!

OP posts:
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NutellaEllaElla · 21/05/2021 14:49

Ok, it sounds so simple 😊. I've lengthened the pattern, now to pinch, measure and adjust. I'll have to do another toile I reckon with so many changes. Don't want to risk it on my nice, limited quantity of fabric.

NutellaEllaElla · 21/05/2021 16:22

Sorry for asking lots of questions today, but when I pinch the excess fabric at the waist on the toile, say it's an inch too loose, do I take 1/2 an inch out of both the front and back pattern panels? Or just 1 inch from the front?

Jins · 21/05/2021 16:29

Half from each at the side. You want to end up with the seams in the right place.

Although I’ve just had a thought about putting darts at the back. That may work for that pattern. Tricker alteration though

NutellaEllaElla · 21/05/2021 22:05

Ok, second toile bodice made and i'm pretty happy with it. The length at the top feels a bit big now Sad. I've pinned the shoulders to reduce it a bit so i'll look into adjusting the paper pattern tomorrow.

FlossieF · 22/05/2021 15:59

Hi! I hope it’s ok to gate-crash this thread! Inspired by the GBSB, I’be decided to dust off (literally) the sewing machine and associated dress-making kit I inherited from my late MIL.

My dress-making skills are rudimentary at best, so I bought the Love at First Stitch book, and that has some useful stuff in. Not all the patterns in it are things I’d get much wear from, so I’m delving into the myriad of patterns available on-line. I’m look at the McCall learn to sew patterns and a dress pattern caught my eye, but the sizing is v confusing.

According to a general McCalls size chart, I’m size 16 on top, and size 20 (eek) on the bottom. I’d normally buy 12 or 14 tops and 14/16 bottoms depending on the brand. So that’s all a bit odd. But if I look at the finished garment size for the particular dress I’m looking at, and add 5cm ease, I’d need the medium to fit my top half, and the large to fit my bottom half. Now that seems more reasonable. The trouble is, the pattern comes in 2 sizes ranges - the medium is in one and the large is in the other.

So - sewing experts - is it better to buy the bigger pattern with a view to taking in the top, or the smaller with a view to making the bottom half bigger. My inclination is to buy bigger, but I don’t know. Any advice would be much appreciated!

Incidentally, whilst i’m no-where near as slim as i used to be, I’m still pretty flat chested, so I’ve no idea how those who are significantly more well endowed in the bust department (which is most of the female population as far as I can see), fit into the patterns I’ve looked at so far.

NutellaEllaElla · 22/05/2021 18:52

Hello and welcome @FlossieF. I'm new too so will leave the advice to other, more experienced sewists! But wanted to say that the pattern sizes bear little resemblance to store sizes so don't take it to heart. In my head, I sometimes rename them to size A, B, C etc Blush.

You may find that you need to do a small bust adjustment, some women have to do a full bust adjustment. I'm just starting to learn about adjustments and by some miracle, appear to be within the size most patterns draft for in that respect.

NutellaEllaElla · 22/05/2021 20:34

I have finally stopped tweaking my toile, cut out the pattern pieces in the main fabric and stay stitched. I'm looking forward to putting it together and am hoping it comes together nicely now!

kittykarate · 24/05/2021 09:43

I sewed the toile of the new trouser pattern - possibly a bit clown pants to be honest, but I'll look at them with new eyes later and try them on properly.

Then I sewed a pair of exercise leggings. Had a bit of a nightmare with them because I forgot the lycra I was using had the largest stretch vertically, so you have to cut them out differently and also I kept forgetting that the pattern block I was using had no seam allowances. There was a certain amount of cursing. However, they look ok, and the adjustments I made didn't make the fit any worse. I put the waistband pocket on the front this time, as I plan on wearing them ice skating, and I fall on my front less often than I do on my back. I reshaped the gusset a bit, and that seems to have stopped so much camel toe.

Photos to follow when the bedroom doesn't look a mess.

NutellaEllaElla · 24/05/2021 15:51

I'm having sewing machine woes. It's been sounding not quite right for a few days now, for one you can hear the bobbin jumping but I don't know why. I did look it up but am still none the wiser. The next issue is that I can hear the needle making contact with the needle plate (I think). Manual says to change the needle and to be fair it does look blunt or even a bit bent but I can't remove it even after completely unscrewing. Not good. Hopefully DH can have a look but I am very afraid to damage the thing.

kittykarate · 24/05/2021 18:39

So the clown trousers don't look too bad on the photo, but I think I'm just too short for elasticated ankles.

Stretchandsnap · 24/05/2021 19:57

@kittykarate

So the clown trousers don't look too bad on the photo, but I think I'm just too short for elasticated ankles.
I think they look great @kittykarate
Jins · 25/05/2021 08:55

Great work kittykarate. I love the fabric you used for the clown trousers.

Well I’m away at the moment. I didn’t manage to finish my list before leaving and I’ve had to finish the hand stitching on a pair of trousers while here but I’ve got enough new clothes to feel that my wardrobe is fully refreshed. My winter wear trendy tank is my favourite so far.

kittykarate · 27/05/2021 11:12

I have no idea where the fabric came from that I used on the clown trousers - I think I bought it online when it was described as chambray, but to me feels more like an artificial linen look. Either way - very easy to work with, wish I had more of it.

My black ponte roma arrived from poundametre, and is drying on the line. It shed a lot of dye on first wash. I'll trace and have a go at the Sabrina Slims this weekend maybe.

NutellaEllaElla · 27/05/2021 12:41

I'm knee deep in cobbling together (some might say "self-drafting" but that sounds better than it is) a pair of pleated cuffs, as the sleeves I cut are too short.

drspouse · 27/05/2021 12:51

I'm fixing an issue with my sewing table so nothing recently for me.

Drinkingallthewine · 28/05/2021 12:32

I've found my tribe Grin

I've been sewing for myself for about 30 years now but only in the last 10 or so joined a sewing group once a week (pre covid) where I could get advice and guidance from the tutor.

I've recently completed a jersey hoodless hoody, and current projects are a couple of maxi dresses and a boiled wool coat.

NutellaEllaElla · 28/05/2021 18:33

Welcome @Drinkingallthewine. How did you find your local sewing group? I only started in lock down so have never met any sewists offline.

drspouse · 28/05/2021 18:49

There's one in my area that meets in a local sewing shop. However it meets in the day during the week so I can't go as I work and then is baffled why so few people go.

NutellaEllaElla · 29/05/2021 13:33

I hate hand sewing so very much! I made the buttons and had to hand sew them on. Finally finished this top and it was tricky because I made loads of amendments including lengthening the bottom, adding a split sleeve detail, extending the sleeves but not enough so adding a cuff, and shortening the top part. I'm really happy with it and will wear it today!

kittykarate · 29/05/2021 14:41

That's so brilliant!

NutellaEllaElla · 29/05/2021 15:41

Thank you! It is great but when I sit down especially, the top is loose, baggy and I feel self conscious although DH assures me it's ok but I wish it would stay flat. Don't know how to fix that unfortunately.

NutellaEllaElla · 29/05/2021 18:13

I've lowered the opening for the wrap around but and think that's helped. It's just the design of the top though.

Jins · 29/05/2021 18:38

It looks lovely. Well done!
I’m looking forward to seeing my machine again. I’ve got a list to finish 😂

Stretchandsnap · 29/05/2021 19:25

I had planned to be away camping for half term but got a call late Friday to say that the pitch we were booked into was flooded, and we can’t come till Monday, so gave me a rare free Saturday afternoon to sew! I am 90% finished my first pair of trousers - All I have to do is insert the elastic into the waist band and hem them, only realised today that I have the wrong size elastic, so have to wait for that to arrive. So annoying!! I was going great guns today - a rare day when I didn’t have the unpicker out!

Stretchandsnap · 29/05/2021 19:32

@NutellaEllaElla love your top, looks so pretty - particularly like the split sleeve and love love the cuffs!

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