Stitch and bitch thread #2. Sewing aficionados gather here!

[IDontMindMarmite]

The previous thread is coming up to capacity and as ever your wisdom, screw ups and accomplishments are appreciated!

I think pattern adjustments will be plenty to focus on, I do have a big list of random questions as well . Thank you for reminding me, I do have those curved rulers but I don't know what i'm doing with them to be honest!

There’s a great chance to find out then! Look forward to finding how it went

Hello lovely sewers - can I join you? I feel like I’ve found my people.

Been a sewer for ages...always get the bug when GBSB comes on!! Fished out a top I started about 6 months ago yesterday and having issues with zips - I pirated a thread on it before I found you lovely people. Will try and get it sorted tonight.

Thinking of making a summer dress and getting ideas on fabric...I can feel my credit card also going in The freezer soon too. I am addicted to fabric!!

Welcome @Dellabob123 ! Yes sewing is bad for the credit card at times!

So far this weekend I've sewn a pair of elastic waist trousers and a pair of shorts from the same pattern and material. I had planned on making capris but I'd forgotten the fabric was so narrow so couldn't squeeze out as much as i wanted. I've just cut some black jersey to make a tshirt tomorrow when the weather turns grim.

I have to find time to make two pairs of elastic waist trousers for mum in the next couple of days. I’ve prewashed the fabric and it’s been hanging over the stairs for a couple of days so it’s definitely ready to cut out. It’s a simple pattern and I’m simplifying it further but I hate pressure. I much prefer leisurely sewing.

Still not sure what to do with my black tiny check gingham. It may become summer trousers rather than the dress I originally thought

It's been a busy day for me! I had my sewing lesson this morning! It was generally good but she wasn't able to help me with one thing I wanted - re-drafting high necklines to v neck. Suggested I find a pattern that I wanted to make rather than try to change patterns. I guess I really should learn my way around constructing from patterns before I try customising.

I've cut out pattern pieces for the Burda dress. I hate cutting out fabric, i'm so scared to screw it up!

Welcome @Dellabob123! Best of luck with your zip. My task tomorrow is to overlock raw edges then do the invisible zip for the dress i've cut out.

I've got a couple of pattern drafting books @NutellaEllaElla that mention how to construct a shaped neckline from a basic pattern block that you might find useful. I think the jist of it is that you need your back and front necklines to match and also account for your seam allowance. Hopefully a V neck wouldn't get in the way of darts too so you retain that balance. I'll post a photo to see if that helps.

I did a pattern cutting course a couple of years ago at the V&A which was helpful but I haven't really done much with it. I learned how to make a basic bodice block but can't say I've been designing my own patterns. You need lots of space to draw out the patterns which I'm a bit short on so my initial enthusiasm quickly waned!

No sewing for me yesterday but DD10 was using my machine and made a couple of little bags. It was really sweet. My other DD15 is doing a Fashion and Textiles course at school and will continue it next year too.

Hello @Dellabob123. I'm hoping to work on a zip today as well. I haven't got one in the colour I need though but it'll be a practice run.

Might be useful, might not be what you had in mind @NutellaEllaElla

Hi @NutellaEllaElla and @Ulysses
You’re both doing zips! Good luck - I’d love to know how you finish off the bottom bit, any advice welcome. I didn’t do any sewing last night as we were doing some clearing and digging for parish council and ended later than anticipated. But, I’ve decided to do a freebie dress pattern and started browsing fabrics, which was lovely. I did get sucked in to the fabric wormhole.... I’m opting for some kind of cotton lawn.

That V&A course sounds fab @ulysses- I love things like that. Last year I managed to squeeze in 2 days of alteration and some drafting with a wonderful lady- so so helpful and helped me re draft a neckline on the top I’m making now.

OMG I'm so annoyed. I did a toile of the size 14 and size 10. Thought the 10 fitted best but turns out I was trying on the 14. Now I've cut out all my fabric in a too small size. I can try to reduce seam allowances all through but it might be a lost cause

Does an exposed zip use less material than an invisible zip??

I have a lovely top from next which is a size 6 (!!!) which fits my top half (i am a 12/14 but is tight round the hips. I would love to make a top with the same top half of this blouse, but with a longer and looser bottom.

The problem with the current bottom half of the top is that it goes into a tapered narrower part at the front so I can't just lengthen it.

Oh no @NutellaEllaElla that’s such a shame. I have no answers. I’m not sure there’s much difference with zip type as In Theory you insert the invisible zip to the seam allowance of the whole pattern the same as a normal zip - but I’m no expert...I feel your pain though

Yikes - I've done the same, misunderstood the size I was cutting out. It was a Liberty pattern and I assumed the size 12 was size 4, but I think it was the equivalent of a size 8. Hope you are able to salvage it.

I don't think that would work make a difference with the zip but you could try to put it right at the edge of the fabric. Normally there's some of the seam allowance shown when you put in a zip. Could you put an insert somewhere else in the dress if it doesn't work out. Bit like Andrew and his jacket on the GBSB last week?!

I guess I'll see when I've sewn it up. It is a stretchy denim but I wasn't planning on it being skin tight!

Which pattern are you using @NutellaEllaElla? I’ve done this in the past and had some success with inserting a strip down the side but I was lucky that it was sleeveless and the shoulder didn’t need any adjustment

This one @Jins. I've got scant scraps of fabric left but when i've made it, if I have to, i'll see if I can pull a strip out to add to the side. If you add a strip on one side, do you have to add a strip the other side too? I probably wouldn't have enough scraps for two . I was v angry with myself today.

I therefore didn't attempt the zip as planned, think that would have been a very bad idea

Oh no NutellaElla, hope it works out.

I’ve just had to do fabric cutting jenga with the Myosotis dress. I have a border print fabric but I couldn’t place the fabric exactly where I envisaged it. Hope it looks ok.

Are any of you participating in Me Made May? I always think it gives me a chance to properly look at my home sewn garments and give them a critical look - ie, should I keep, adjust, throw?

NutellaElla if it doesn’t work, you may be able to insert a contrasting panel down each side and either do the straps or pockets in the same to make it seem intentional.

You would add to both sides but you won’t be able to with that because you don’t have a side seam. On the plus side there’s more seams to pinch from the seam allowance. Burda allow 5/8 in the patterns I’ve used so take them to 3/8 or 1/4 if you can. You may gain enough that way. Every inch counts

I've not heard of it before Wilderness? That's a very creative idea, thank you!

Yeah, i'm stealing from all seams possible and hoping for the best!

So my last bits of sewing over the bankholiday weekend were a plain black jersey Jalie Faux Wrap top. A really quick sew, but looks much more complicated than it is. My attempts at understitching the Style Arc Loren jacket didn't help much with the facing flipping out - this is definitely relegated to a house coat. Lots of lessons learned though, I might make it again if I get some suitable material on the cheap.

Love that faux wrap top pattern kitty!

I must say, in my limited experience of under stitching facing, it hasn't been the miracle cure i've been sold!

I don’t have much joy with understitching either. In fact if I can get away with top stitching then that’s what I tend to do.

I managed to start and finish mum’s trousers yesterday. I’m quite pleased with them although I’m sure they aren’t up to the standard she used to be capable of.

Nonetheless the improvement I’ve made in the last few months is remarkable. I’m putting it down to having to wear glasses nowadays