earthling
got a couple of links for you.
www.expatsinitaly.com/phpbbforum
try the kids in Italy or culture shock forums, but you'll find loads and loads of people who'll give you advice and if nothing else, support on the bad days.
and there is this one too, a bit Rome centric but again with people who understand where you are coming from.
pinkitaly.forumotion.com/
I think I just about hated Italy when my son was a baby. The family (and the rest of the country) were driving me mad with constant dire warnings about colpa d'aria etc. etc. and I was out of my depth as a new mummy, in a place that suddenly felt really, seriously alien. On top of that I had my husband pussy footing around his mother who was thrown for a loop by my having his child, instead of buggering off and leaving her "miracle baby" alone with her, as she had hoped.
It is a rough time for any couple, the first baby stuff. But when you do it with one of you abroad, feeling like a fish out of water, all your differences seem less "interesting" and more "insurmountable"..and it is a killer.
Add one MIL with tact issues at best, and Machiavellian intent at worst and ...oh it is not fun.
Most of the time it gets better. You and the new daddy get more into the swing of the parenting thing, you have your "important chats\letters" and while it might seem one step forward and two steps back, most of the time people get there in the end and sort things out.
So while you are on that journey, lean on the people that have walked it before. If nothing else you are going to feel less alone and seeing people who have battled through to the other side is a more hopeful place to be than thinking it is just you, and everything is a bit doomed.
Just to be on the safe side, have you been to the doc to see how you are doing post birth ? I'm not saying your vision of MIL is one brought about by PND, but more that with all the additional pressures you have, you are at a heighten risk of getting really blue after birth. Might be worth a check up just to keep an eye on things.
I've found the little Italy thread www.mumsnet.com/Talk/other_subjects/1057615-Little-Italy-23?pg=17and it is great, worth popping over if you want to stay in a mumsnet zone, but one focused on the stuff that is most pressing for you.
This isn't one that gets solved over night, but with a couple of shoulders and a sprinkling of ears over the next few months there is every reason to believe that you'll blink and realise you have a hulking ten year old and be saying the same things I've been saying to you, to some lady with a little baby, who is tearing her hair out.
I've shouted at my husband a bit on your behalf ("you bloody mother obsessed spineless men etc. etc. etc".). Because he is here under my nose and yours isn't... and anyway mine was just as bad when our little one was born...so he deserves it.