After the transition to he/him the agency requested Coombes be ‘more masculine’, presumably because while high fashion is sometimes edgy-androgynous the majority of fashion consumers still shop in a binary menswear or womenswear section and brand marketing is about flogging stuff?
Besides ‘androgynous’ is almost always synonymous with ‘young’ and modelling is one a handful of occupations where 30 is ‘old’.
There are always a few exceptions to the rule but the vast majority of currently working fashion models are tall, slim, of proportions that fit the designers sample size and young. They are expected to have neutral, versatile, hair and have no body modifications nor any noticeable cosmetic surgeries. They are expected to maintain the measurements listed on their profile and neither gain nor lose weight without prior discussion with their ‘booker’.
It’s all very tedious and not particularly nice but there are lots of alternative professions out there, and most models have a relatively short modelling career and then go on to do something less restrictive.
Agencies drop ‘talent’ (whether that be models, musicians, actors, writers etc) when the ‘talent’ falls out of favour with the client base. If a model doesn’t fit a designer’s man-proportion requirements but is no longer willing to take woman-proportion jobs, they won’t get sufficient bookings and their agent will drop them in order to take on other, more bookable models instead.
Being signed to an agency isn’t like a normal job, there are absolutely no guarantees of income and most employment rights (such as maternity pay, sick pay and holiday pay) do not apply.
Being told to present in a feminine manner and not bring up gender identity at the booking stage sounds like practical advice intended to maximise job opportunities and thus keep up Coombes’ income stream (and the agency’s cut of that income) especially as the agency switched to advising Coombes to present in a more masculine manner (when Coombes went from identifying as non binary to identifying as a trans man)
The employee accused of misgendering says he’s a gay man who uses ‘she’ for men as well as women.
Should be an interesting court case to follow at least, all the recent UK tribunals have been in comparatively boring industries!
Hopefully Coombes has since found a job that doesn’t require the keeping of a marketable appearance, and is now free to present in manner that makes Coombes feel happy and comfortable.