I've finished now and reread at leisure. The only nice people are the horses, really.
Exceptions - extremely fond of Purrpuss who should have featured more in the dialogue - he never spoke once. Cats do talk, especially bossy ones. Bao was very, very funny and authentic he was too.
Humans were mostly neither nice or funny. Did not identify with Gala at all - no idea she was meant to be 'the main heroine' until Jilly said so in the acks. I approve madly of her being a carer though.
The Rupert & Gala sex thing - actually, you know, I'm sort of ok with that. It was just sex. Funnily enough, it seems more just-about-ok because it was really good sex. And they did a dignified farewell.
But the biggest farewell in the book is to love - great, crashing, lifelong romantic love. It's not there. Through her observation Jilly articulated the great dream of love for all of us in the early books - and through her observation, she couldn't help but kill it off in the last one. How sad.