And now Vogue praising the product - sorry to break it to some but this isn't failure - it's borderline genuis.
https://www.vogue.com/article/is-meghan-markles-as-ever-rose-good
So which catgeory one does Markle’s fall under? Well, we decided to ask Jordan Salcito, an award-winning sommelier who oversaw the wine program at Eleven Madison Park and Momofuku, to put As Ever Rosé to an unbiased taste-test. “I approached it exactly as I would any other bottle: with curiosity, attention, and the analytical framework I've used to understand thousands of wines throughout my career,” says Salcito, whose how-to-wine tasting book, Smart Mouth, comes out this October. Her honest review, below. (Oh, and if you managed to get your hands on the in-demand vino? Salcito recommends pairing it with “chilled with grilled salmon, pork belly or barbecue, roasted vegetables, or even spicy Thai takeout.”)
This isn't the pale, whisper-thin pink of so many celebrity rosés that seem designed more for Instagram than actual drinking. Instead, we're looking at a gorgeous, substantial pink with a dark rose-colored center that transitions to a pale rim.
The viscosity immediately caught my attention. Medium-plus weight in the glass tells a story before you even smell or taste anything. This indicates the grapes were harvested very ripe, which suggests a winemaking team that prioritized concentration and flavor development over simply getting the wine to market quickly.
Smell & Taste
This is where things get interesting. I always approach aromatics and flavors using my mental framework of Fruit, Earth, Wood, Flowers, Herbs, Spices, and Other; these are categories that help keep me focused on the symphony of sensations happening in my glass.
Fruit: The wine delivers exactly what you hope for from premium rosé: ripe strawberries that remind you of summer farmers’ markets, juicy watermelon, and a beautiful citrus component of pink grapefruit and grapefruit peel that adds sophistication and lift.
Earth: Here’s where As Ever shows some personality. The river stone minerality adds a backbone that elevates this beyond simple fruit-forward rosé territory. It’s subtle but noticeable, and I loved this.
Wood: Refreshingly, there’s no obvious new oak here. No vanilla, no baking spice distractions. The wine speaks clearly of fruit rather than winemaking technique—a smart choice for rosé.
Flowers & Herbs: The hibiscus flower notes are particularly lovely, adding an almost tea-like elegance. A whisper of thyme and oregano might surprise some people, but these herbal elements are what make this wine food-friendly rather than just a poolside sipper.
Spices: Pink peppercorn adds a delicate spice note that complements rather than overwhelms.
Structure
Here’s where I separate the serious wines from the marketing exercises. Structure—what I call the TAAL framework (Tannins, Acid, Alcohol, Length)—is arguably the most important part of any wine analysis.
Tannins: As expected in rosé, there are no perceptible tannins here. The grape skins had minimal contact with the juice, exactly right for this style.
Acidity: The acidity is bright and fresh, like biting into a grapefruit. This level of acidity means the wine will pair nicely with food and should age gracefully for a year or so if you don't drink it all this summer.
Alcohol: At 14.5% alcohol by volume, this is quite high for rosé, where most are around 12-13%. You can feel this richness and weight on your palate, along with a bit of heat on the finish. This isn’t necessarily a flaw, but it does position this as a more full-bodied rosé, meant to enjoy with snacks or a meal, rather than a light apéritif.
Length/Complexity: The finish is long, with those slightly bitter grapefruit notes lingering.