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The doghouse

If you're worried about your pet's health, please speak to a vet or qualified professional.

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Original poster

May have to rehome our dog

67 replies

TornAboutThisDecision · 23/12/2017 10:39

Namechanged for this as some details may be outing. I'm tearing myself apart mentally over this decision so any advice would be appreciated.
We adopted a greyhound in May and at first all went really well. Lately, he's been getting snappier and growling a lot at all of us (me, DH, 2 children, 7 & 5) and he has bitten my husband. He constantly steals food and gets very aggressive about it.
On top of this my work hours are about to increase so I won't be around for the whole working day all week days, when we got him I wasn't working so I could be with him and then I got a p/t job. I feel he will be lonely because of this change.
We adopted him from a trust and if we don't keep him then they take the dogs back and rematch him with a new family.
Would it be best for all involved to have him rehomed? It doesn't sit right tbh, but I can't be happy with the children possibly being bitten and definitely feeling scared in their own home. We love him and would miss him terribly so we keep going round in circles about this.

OP posts:

Chippyway · 23/12/2017 16:42

Oh fgs

You shouldn’t have ever got him in the first place!!

Classic line of “he was alright when it suited us but now I’ve got more hours of work he’s gotta go...” NO!!!

Dogs don’t behave this way for no reason. Instead of trying to get to the bottom of this you’re using the first excuse (you working more hours) to get rid of him

If you were any decent dog owner you would’ve tried behaviourist after behaviourist until you figured out the reason behind his behaviour. You’d pay for dog walkers or daycare whilst working your new longer hours.

I travel 10 miles a day to walk my dog on my break from work. I work 12 hours shifts. I do what’s best for my dog.

You’ve had the poor dog for just 6 months. I just hope his next Home puts in the love and effort

Wolfiefan · 23/12/2017 16:48

Vet check. There may be a physical reason for the behaviour.
Stealing food. NEVER leave food out and the dog can't do this. EVER. Stairgates are great.
When does the biting occur? When you try and take something or when you grab the dog to love it?
TBH it sounds more like you're thinking dog owning isn't what you thought it would be like and the new job and change of behaviour is a good reason to get rid.

usainbolt · 23/12/2017 16:54

No dog will growl and snap for no reason. For new dog owners it can be hard to find out what causes this. However the op has come on here for help (not sure she is getting it though).

OP do get a qualified behaviourist to review the situation - they will have the skill and experience to help keep your family safe and your dog happy - that may or not mean rehoming. Ask the professionals they deal with this on a daily basis.

Original poster

TornAboutThisDecision · 23/12/2017 17:14

Thanks again for the advice, I'll try to answer the questions.
The food we give him is the advised food, with the correct protein levels for his breed, we feed the recommended amount and we split his feeds into twice a day as recommended.
The food stealing is constant but opportunistic, we never leave food out but he will grab food from people's hands.
He had a visit to the vet a couple of weeks ago for booster jabs and a general check up.
He is walked at least twice a day.
The growling is mostly just to warn to stay away from him, as one would expect, but there have been occasions when he will climb on top of me when I'm on the settee and then growl at me when I try to get up.
We've contacted the behaviourist and are waiting to hear back, obviously the time of year may affect speed of response.
This is not a fleeting fancy, It's a weighty concern, of which we want to explore every possibility mentally before making any decisions.
I didn't decide to get a dog and then think "Oh, now I'll get a job so I can leave him alone", financial circumstances dictated I find paid work outside the home, which was not the plan six months ago.

OP posts:

Original poster

TornAboutThisDecision · 23/12/2017 17:18

Thank you to those of you who are giving help and advice. To those of you saying we are just trying to get rid of a pet, please read my posts, if we were then I wouldn't bother to ask for people's experiences.

OP posts:

teaiseverything · 23/12/2017 17:24

Please do be prepared to potentially have to work with several behaviourists over time. The first one doesn't necessarily always "fit" your lifestyle/personality/beliefs/dog.

usainbolt · 23/12/2017 17:28

A lot of dog training is prevention and managing the situation. So re the growling when he is sitting on you - prevent him from sitting on you or prefer you move off, throw a treat onto the floor, he moves off you to get the treat and you can move and no drama.

Some very simple strategies can help BUT do get the behaviourist in only someone on the ground can safely evaluate the situation

usainbolt · 23/12/2017 17:30

prefer = before !

CornflakeHomunculus · 23/12/2017 17:30

If you're on FB I would highly recommend joining this group and posting for advice. It's run by highly respected trainers/behaviourists who advocate the use force free, science based methods and at the very least you can get some advice on managing the situation until you can get help in person.

It's also worth asking for recommendations for professionals in your area as you may find someone able to see you sooner and it would be wise to have a back up in case the behaviourist who works with the rescue isn't very good. Alternatively you could also get a referral from your vet or go through one of these organisations.

How thorough a check up did he get at the vets two weeks ago? If it was just a quick once over then it's definitely worth booking him in for another and letting them know about his behaviour and that you want to be sure it's not related to pain or discomfort.

Wolfiefan · 23/12/2017 17:33

We eat in the dining room with a stairgate or closed door. The dog can't take food.
I would ask vet specifically to check for pain issues.
Growling to stay away. Like when? Is it when you're trying to get him off furniture etc? If so don't. Use a treat to tempt him off. Never grab him.
Has he got a safe place he can retreat to where nobody will bother him.

DonnyAndVladSittingInATree · 23/12/2017 17:38

If you’re eating in front of him then you’re just torturing him. Of course he wants what you have. Have you tried training him out of the habit? If you can’t or wont then just don’t eat in front of him. Have him in another room when you are eating or snacking.

Oops4 · 23/12/2017 19:36

OP I know you've changed names but I do wonder if I remember your previous posts. If so, I had wondered how your situation was going to pan out as I wasn't entirely in agreement with some of the advice given. I think the behaviourist (potentially plural) are the best way to go to see if you can resolve the situation. There's always lots of advice on very positive training methods which are on the whole very effective, and I'm aware of the criticisms of dominance theory, but I think there is a middle line somewhere between the two. Yes you need to train with positive reinforcement and by understanding your dogs needs/body language etc, but I don't believe it can all be positive, the dog needs to learn the line, and growling at you because you try to move is way over the line if you ask me. I'd definitely recommend a stair gate for separation. Our dogs are very friendly and have never shown aggression but we still use ours when ever people are round, the kids are particularly hyper, I'm busy etc etc.

But if you can't get a proper resolution then you should rehome. Kids shouldn't have to live in a house where they have to tip toe round a dog in fear of getting bitten.

Wolfiefan · 23/12/2017 19:54

Please don't reprimand a dog for growling. It is the last warning before a bite. If you convince a dog to never growl you won't get a warning.

Lloyd45 · 23/12/2017 20:07

Pain can cause snapping so a vet visit is good advice. I took in a rescue and the first couple of months the perfect dog, then he tried to take over the whole house so put in boundaries. Rescues are so dofiicult as what you first think your getting completely changes after a couple of months. Training, training and more training and a good routine and a dog behaviourist would be a start. Dogs need so much time especially a rescue, good luck. Just remember next time he is rehomed if gets harder every time then he is on death row 😞

mustbemad17 · 23/12/2017 20:14

What was your response to him the first time he ever growled at you/hubby?

Also what was the situation with him biting hubby?

It sounds a little like he hasn't had many boundaries - he shouldn't be in the same room as anyone eating if you know he will swipe stuff from them. Does he have his own 'space' where he & only he goes to take time out?

Wolfiefan · 23/12/2017 20:14

Another thought. Is he an ex racer? Not used to living in a home?

mustbemad17 · 23/12/2017 20:33

Wolfie i wondered that. Also ex racers, altho kenneled seperately, are used to constant noise & companionship - a racing kennel is a far cry from a home. I took an ex racer on home trial & he couldn't cope as an only dog

Bambinho · 23/12/2017 20:52

I agree that you need to put in some work with him. If you got him from The Greyhound Trust they would have matched you to the right dog, taking your family circumstances (thinking more about children than working hours here) into consideration. They have lived in kennels all their lives so this is all new to them.

Mine are not without problems - my first greyhound is fairly aloof, cuddles on his terms only and did some resource guarding of a sofa in the early days that included biting me. I know to respect his boundaries and don't get in his face too much. He's currently developed a noise anxiety (thanks to the PP who suggested that Facebook group) which is affecting him going out for walks and will get some professional help with it in the new year.

My second grey loves smoochy cuddles, was a revelation when I got him that I could do that after experience with the first. I got him in January so he's really still settling in. He growls at anyone or anything slightly touching him e.g. at me on my own bed! but that's all there is to it. Some over exuberant playing with other dogs has calmed down but still get occasional weeing in the house. The weeing I've linked to when he's finished eating so I've been working on getting him outside straight after meals.

Mine are very greedy (one has just eaten a cake i foolishly left in reach) but not aggressive so yours definitely needs some training. Being left alone isn't generally too much of a problem for greyhounds as their racing lives mean they are in kennels most of the day plus their favourite pastime is sleeping. However, I wouldn't be happy leaving mine for more than 5, 6 at a push, hours.

Good luck with sorting out his problems, I really hope you can find a solution and keep him.

Lloyd45 · 23/12/2017 20:59

You know Lurcher means thief 😊 As I learnt with my first dog. Don't leave any food on the side 😊

Boynamedsue · 23/12/2017 22:28

When you say your husband was bitten was it a proper bite? Sorry if that seems obvious but our ex racer has caught DH before, he snaps when playing but that is all he is doing. It is air snaps, very common in greyhounds. DH just moved unexpectedly and ddog caught him. Dog was mortified even though he'd stopped himself and caused no damage

userxx · 24/12/2017 12:01

Those air snaps can be lethal if they catch you! My old girl was permanently giddy and loved to airsnap, sometimes a bit too close for comfort for both of us.

WaitrosePigeon · 28/12/2017 19:51

Can you pinpoint when the behaviour started to change?

Besom · 28/12/2017 20:08

We have an ex racer and had some similar problems with him at first. We took all the advice from the rescue and now we have a lovely, well behaved boy. Apart from the opportunistic food theft, that has not changed.

I would stop letting him up on the couch. Mine goes a bit too big for his boots if he gets on the couch.He should go on a bed on the floor but the kids need to be taught to give him space when he's in his bed. Don't give him food or treats unless he's done something for it, giving a paw for instance. We trained ours to bow quite easily as they do it naturally. The kids can give treats, supervised of course, but again if hes done something fr it. So he gets the idea that he behaves and he gets something. The 'off command is good so you teach them to move for you without physically dragging him, which he may see as a threat. It's all about teaching them what you expect of them and when, and curbing the impulsive behaviour.

Appleandcinnamon · 28/12/2017 20:15

Personally I’d say that the dog has “settled” with you now and is starting to think he/she is dominant. You need to make sure that the dog is bottom of the feeding sitting entering list. You can have dogs and work full time that’s what dog walkers are for. Have you got insurance that offers behaviour therapy.

noitsnotteatimeyet · 29/12/2017 10:18

Sigh ... dominance theory is completely bollocks appleandcinnamon

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