Alaskan Malamute - any tips?

[Mouseface]

Hello

We've just got a Malamute. He's 12 weeks old (and gorgeous)

I wondered if anyone had any tips on care/feed/walking/sleep/training etc?

We are crating him but only got him today so tonight should be interesting.

Forget the halti, you need to train him to walk properly on a flat collar and lead from the start. I am a great fan of the silky leash method. :)

Your DH is being too weak with him (forget anything you've ever heard about 'alpha' and pack dynamics). When he nips shout 'NO' or 'AH', stop whatever you were doing with him, turn around and walk away. Ignore him for a few seconds, then resume.

See that's what I thought re the nipping. I say NO, move and turn my body away from him, when he sits, I leave it a few seconds and then praise him.

DH just shouts. Will pass this on. And the info about silky leash method.

Thank you.

I get so annoyed with people at the park who tell me my dog should have a halty, I tell them they should train their dogs to walk without one. It really gets to me. I would much rather train my dog probably than be lazy and stick a horrible on because I can't be bothered. I feel sorry for dogs when they paw at it trying to get it off :( Train the dog to walk to heel and not pull. When he gets really strong, and he will lol, you might find using a harness easier for control but I mixed views on this and think it's a very personal choice. I knew he would get strong but as he got stronger so did I and I want to teach him to pull on a harness so it's no good teaching him to walk in one and try to teach pull later.

I think dh should copy your reaction when he mouths, our mal was terrible for mouthing, he still has his moments but it's more a cuddle with your forearm!

probably = properly

stick a halty, not horrible

I need

Thank you, I don't like the look of them but apparently, 'everyone' has told DH to get one.

I'd much rather train him in the garden, then on short walks without on, then in public places etc....

He's had his lead on, one that goes over his head, like a rope, and seemed find with it. I've walked my friends labs using one like this and just keep it loose until you need to direct the dog IYSWIM.

I found that worked for her dogs and for the dogs too. No collar, a tag on the leads.

I'd like to do the same.

He's going to be chipped too.

See, what you said there about 'mouthing', he does that with me, and I sit with him and put my hand in his mouth, stroke his ears and hold his paws.

I think he lets me handle him more? He's seems protective over me too...

Or am I making that up?

I'm not sure what you mean but I hope it's not a choke chain/lead, those are cruel. Remember his coat will get longer and be very very thick you don't want to use anything that can trap and pull out his fur, that will hurt! I'd also worry about a mal slipping out and running off or can they not get out of it? Because he will run, he might not run off completely but he will run and he will be tireless and faster than you!

Nothing cruel about a slip lead (or, indeed, a choke chain) if used correctly. Long-link sprenger chains don't catch on the coat. Would want to see professional instruction in their use though.

Would always advise that a dog wears a standard collar with a tag on and not just a slip (it's the law and means anyone finding your dog can contact you straight away without getting vets involved for a chip scan). Huskies are notorious for slipping flat collars and often wear limited slip collars, like the kind with the large d-rings that you see used in racing, no idea about mals though in that respect.

Is it okay just to put the collar on just when he's outside? Or best to put it on always.

It's a slip lead I think, not a choke chain. It's made of tightly weaved rope.

Looks like This

What kind of collar and lead would you guys recommend?

We're back the vets on Saturday..... hopefully, I'll stop bugging you all and have a list ready for the nurse there!

Choke chains are definitely cruel and should never be used.

I would never ever use a slip lead on a dog.

You need to get a buckle collar with a tag on it. I use indigo tags as they go on the collar and never drop off so if the dog does get lost the tag will always be attached. Then a clip on lead to the collar.

You will have a big strong dog so it is vital that you teach him to walk to heel early on. Also with the Mal I would teach him a pull command but only when he is wearing a harness.

I hope you will work him and get him used to a harness (I would be getting him used to one now) so that he can do what mals do best. A walking harness is fine to start with but you can get the racing harnesses when he is about 6 months old.

Are you up for Canix when he is bigger or sled dog rallying.

good organisation to contact re mal sports
tips for working with Mals

I am feeling pretty now I would love to go scootering with a Mal

I use Manmat limited slip collars here. They're designed for racing huskies and mals, no clips or buckles to break, they just slip over the head and tighten up a couple of inches once on. Lots of matching leads and bungee leads (for canicross and scootering) and eventually harnesses for when he's old enough. Really good quality gear, all my harnesses are by them.

For 'best' I have some lovely bespoke leather half-check collars with matching leather leads (long, thin and with rings in the handles for tethering/adjustment). A total indulgence but there's nothing like a good worn leather lead for training work. :)

I don't personally have a problem with choke or slip leads (have used both myself) but they are often abused and starting from scratch with a nice malleable puppy you shouldn't ever need them.

def needs a collar with tag.
Our sibe ran off one day and ended up 2 miles away in the town centre!!!!!
The police got to know him well when he made his escapes and were greatful for the info on his tag which was our surname, our postcode, and phone number. They often would bring him home for us.

I used a halti as i had to walk him with the pram and when he was young it gave me a bit of control. I also used a slip lead for training and walking with out the pram so he was used to both. Only problem with slip was he could slip it if he wanted hence al his run ins with the police.

we have a nylon collar and it has never been a problem with his hair.

Can't remember if i mentioned before but we use Skinners hypo-allergenic Duck and rice which is the only thing he has thrived on even JWB gave him the runs.

i would get advice from someone who has mal about when to start harnessing him and teaching pull commands. i wouldn't feel it necesary to worry about it now getting him under control on the lead is much more important at this stage. He shouldn't be able to pull anything till he is much bigger as he could damage his joints.

Hi.

We took him to the vets on Saturday for his second set of jabs. They weighed him and in the 2 weeks since he was last weighed, he's put on 3.5kg

He's been invited to a puppy party by the lady at the vets who has 3 Mals.

Lots of support from her and the lady in our village with a 9 yr old bitch.

He can now go out for walks so he's been up to the local shop, with a soft leather collar (his name, our name, phone number and postcode on) and lead.

He doesn't pull and is happy to walk beside us, but he did try to get his collar off the first few days.

We've also had him chipped.

Gosh, mouse, nothing that useful to add except I am pleased you seem to be such a responsible owner as in my experience (of the ones owned around here) they are rather dominant dogs with fairly unpleasant personalities. He's just a pup now but they grow big and strong and really love to be in charge - probably not a good choice for an inexperienced owner.

Each to their own, I suppose, but I certainly wouldn't have one with a child in the house.

Please, please muzzle when you are out and about if he continues to bite (or 'nip' as it seems to be expressed here - not sure how you distinguish a 'fierce nip' from a bite, but still...).

barmbrack puppies will all 'mouth' and this is a vital learning stage for them. It's when they get 'feedback' - initially from their mum and litter mates and then later from their owners, and learn bite inhibition. Teaching a good bite inhibition is absolutely essential - the pup should in time learn that teeth should never touch skin and humans are soft - not for biting!

It's not dangerous (though puppy teeth are very sharp!) and there is no reason at all to muzzle.

Sorry, I wasn't clear - I know puppies mouth (though isn't it the case that puppies separated from their mothers and littermates too early (I thought 12 weeks rather than 8 was recommended) are likely not to have learnt that this isn't acceptable.

I meant please muzzle if as a grown dog it hasn't grown out of it.

Sorry, we won't be muzzling him.

We have a 22 month DS too.

He has been enrolled in a 6 week training course with the lady at the vet who has 3 mals. His puppy party is next week to so he'll get to meet lots of other dogs.

He is very well behaved on his lead, walks next to us and doesn't pull or slip his collar.

I realise it's early days but barmbrack, your post made him sound like a beast. He's really placid and is taking his life with us in his stride.

He is very much loved and wanted, otherwise we wouldn't have got him. Plus, he knows who is boss

Barmbrack obviously you haven't had a good experience of mals but since you haven't owned one and do not know a lot about the breed refrain from giving advice

Mals are amazing with children, if you read into the breed you will find out that the Inuit tribe who bred them would leave the dogs to babysit the kids, dogs and kids would snuggle up together to keep warm. So, I certainly would have one with a child in the house, they are excellent dogs for children.

Mouseface I am glad you are not going to muzzle him! There is no need for that at all.

Mals are so laid back and easy going. Barnbrack I wonder if you are confusing them with another breed?

Thanks mmsmum, I totally agree.

hi mouse seems like your fluffy boy is settling in well. The mouthing is normal puppy behaviour and he will grow out of it - so long as everyone stays consistent with the OUCH or NO's.

How is he on the new food? Hope his poos are more solid for you.

I use a halti sometimes when I walk both dogs together on my own, gives me more control with the puppy/big dog depending on who is arsing around!

Hope the puppy party and training goes well, you are certainly getting lots of support locally. Good luck!

Hey Jax

He's on Fish4Dogs and LOVES it! Poos are much better now and he seems to have far less ahem, wind on this too.

Yep, he knows that the mouthing is a no no but i do put my hand in and around his face, touch his ears and paws often to get him used to that. He doesn't close his mouth around my hand, he just sits still.

I always reassure him when I do this too, so he knows when I put my hand in his mouth, it's okay IYSWIM?

He had a walk up to the castle this morning with DH. Ducks, water and children but he was a star. No pulling, dragging or barking.

Just really calm and good.

that is lovely Mouse. When you touch him, use a command, so when you touch his feet say feet/paws, mouth I use teeth, ears etc etc. That way when the vet goes to check him over it is no biggy for the puppy and he isnt wriggling about like a wriggly thing.

I give mine the fish4dogs treats, they love them.

Hi Mouseface, just wanted to pop in and tell you abour our northern breed puppy. He's our first family dog too and we get plenty of s from people. We thought we had done loads of research but actually we were pretty naive, the breeder was irresponsible and didn't even check to make sure we had a garden, didn't ask about our lifestyle. Anyhoo if I'm honest we would have been better off with a lab but this dog is such a huge part of our family I wouldn't change him for the world. Yes he has dominant tendancies but we are working on that, yes he needs lots of excersise but that's doing us all the world of good. Enjoy your puppy, you sound like you are more than ready to put the work in.