Last night's TV
Jamie Oliver is back on the school dinners warpath, and he won't let anyone palm him off - least of all Tony Blair
Nancy Banks-Smith
Tuesday September 19, 2006
The Guardian
Jamie Oliver is such a contemporary hero that the new Robin Hood ("a bit of a geezer") will be based on him. In Jamie's Return to School Dinners (Channel 4) he reorganised Lincolnshire (next door to Nottinghamshire), which has lost almost all its primary school kitchens, by getting local restaurants and pubs to provide school dinners.
He is wholly and peculiarly a product of television. Anything this free of fear on television usually has four legs. Jamie and Mitch, a scrap of a lad who packs his own idiosyncratic school lunches, were being filmed on a windswept Lincolnshire shore, very much a director's idea. "I'm freezing," said Jamie. "Do you want to go and get a hot cup of tea?" "Yeah, go on then," said Mitch.
Since he started campaigning for "proper, good, lovely, home-cooked, healthy food every day of the school year", Jamie has seen three secretaries of state for education in three years. Alan Johnson was the latest. A bowl of fruit was positioned prominently on the table, indicating a keen interest in all things dietary. Jamie tipped out beside it a child's typical packed lunch: crisps, snacks and a fizzy drink of a particularly virulent blue. Johnson was new to the job ("I'm this week's secretary of state") and it showed. I haven't seen anyone so unbriefed since The Full Monty. When he said "I can't commit to anything after 2008 financially", Jamie snapped back: "So does that mean our boys are going to be out of Iraq in a year and a half?" At this the minister's special adviser bounded from her seat as if gravity had been cancelled.
Alan Johnson must have felt the feebleness of this performance acutely, and moved fast. Three weeks later Jamie was summoned to meet the prime minister, who said: "To be fair to Alan, after he spoke to you we put out heads together and tried to work it out." In the garden of No 10, against a backing group of exuberant flowers, he strewed handfuls of roses out of his hat. New money for school kitchens, £240m more for school dinners and even a voluntary ban on advertising junk food to children. "That sounds a bit wet, Tony," said Jamie. You've got to love him.