Anyone else love this style/aesthetic?

[ViolaCello]

I know brands such as Oska, Nygårdsanna and Studio Nicholson offer similar, but I struggle to locate such items in the UK. I certainly can't afford to pay higher end prices but can afford the occasional bit from the Toast/Howell end of the price scale.

I have seen similar threads here in the past where people insist that you have to be 6 foot tall and shapeless to carry this style off, but I strongly disagree, since so many (perhaps the majority) of the inspiration images show Japanese women, or short and curvy women looking fantastic in it. Perhaps it is our western predilection for amazonian models representing the 'default' for all clothing styles? A matter of perception?

I am 5'4, so not petite, and have longer legs for my height. My body type is very similar to the Japanese ladies in these images across the internet, but I have no real idea how to pull it off - but would love to try! I am half way there, but never dive fully in

Also, if this style appeals to you, I would love to know how you have your hair? I think how we wear our hair is integral to our overall sense of style, whether we invest ££ in it or prefer to go with the natural flow. We talk a lot about different aesthetics in S&B but rarely discuss the hair when we talk about outfits, etc.

I suppose this is similar to the 'monty don as a woman' question, but maybe a bit less less boxy/utilitarian and more silky/fluid?

Hmm …

I shop at Studio Nicholson and Margaret Howell occasionally but have no interest in the other places you mention. I’m around 5’3 with short hair. About a size 10. I don’t look as you may imagine. And I don’t call the way I dress a particular style. It’s just clothes I like - from a wide variety of sources, mostly online.

My wardrobe leans towards the crunchy - tweed, velvet, Shetland wool, double faced cashmere - and I like thoughtfully crafted structure and strong colours. While I admire the entire Japanese design oeuvre I don’t set out to emulate it; I’m equally happy in English, French or Italian designs. A particularly successful outfit would probably include several different fabrics and a really wide range of prices.

What was your overarching question??

Oska Ischiko. Not as pricey as MH or SN

I'm 5'4" and I wear it.
Oska Ischiko

Sorry I see you mentioned it

I think how you do your hair is as much about hair type and personal levels of maintenance than it matching a certain style.

I would wear the trousers and jumpers from the photos you have shared, but the shoes, socks and accessorising or overall styling wouldn't appeal. My hair is long and was chosen because it suits my face structure, not to do with my clothes.

Oska Ischiko is £200+ for a sweater! Slightly cheaper than Margaret Howell and Studio Nicholson, but certainly not affordable.

Having said that, I don’t think the OP’s photos reflect the style of those brands anyway. The photos aren’t as stylish or minimal as the product photos from those brands, so maybe that’s not quite the look she’s aiming for?

OP if you’re thinking about what Monty Don wears, I understand he shops at Old Town (they are also very expensive). But you can buy similar items from Cos, Arket, Uniqlo, even H&M. They aren’t styled like that on the website, but you can buy individual items which look similar and recreate that style.

I think how you do your hair is as much about hair type and personal levels of maintenance than it matching a certain style.
Hair is what you’re born with in terms of texture. I always wanted sleek flat hair but will never have it because of my ethnicity. I do think that sort of understated look suits “natural” hair, ie not an obviously artificial shape and colour. I have medium length dark curls and would wear that sort of menswear inspired clothing.

@Kaill - are you aware of the pre-owned market? Plenty of people dressed in Margaret Howell or Marni or Sofie D’Hoore or whatever haven’t paid the full original price for their clothes. (And even people with limitless funds might enjoy bargain hunting.)

I’m not entirely sure what use exclaiming over the price of other people’s choices is? No one’s going to lie down and die of shame because you don’t approve. I am as keenly aware of Uniqlo as anyone - but I also find it hugely satisfying to venture further afield.

OP said she couldn’t afford to pay higher end prices. So I don’t see how it helps to recommend brands with higher end prices.

If she wants that look at an affordable price point it can be bought on the high street - they don’t style the pieces like that but you can create that look.

You make a good point about looking at a variety of sources. I think if you (general you) get too hidebound by a particular "style" it's possible to miss things.

On a recent Mother of the Bride thread a poster had paired this Oska dress in navy with a large , dramatic hat and mid heeled LK Bennett shoes which picked up the colours of the dress. It blew the other MoB suggestions out of the water, but it took a good eye to spot the potential of the dress and see it not in "Monty Dom/ Scandinavian Architect/ Bloomsbury potter" mode.

Oska dress

I have some Oska trousers purchased from JulesB. The quality/material isn't great, and they were overpriced. I wouldn't recommend.

er, yes, I like a variety of items in this 'style range' if that makes sense? I have no fixed idea of it, apart from looser, flowing shapes. My over arching question was to see if anyone else liked it and wanted to chat - the title of my post really.

I'll chat although I probably fall more at the boxy / utilitarian than the loose and flowing end of the spectrum. I think all the stockists I know of are in that 'If Monty Don was a woman' thread, which I'm assuming from your op you've already seen. If not, then it covers loads of brands at a range of price points, although a lot of them are high end because they rely on the fabric being of a quality and weight which doesn't come cheap. I'm also going to assume you know that many of us buy them second hand.

So I'm going to focus more on your question about how we wear those looser shapes. I'm 5'3, still slim but curvier than I used to be, and frankly I no longer take any notice of anyone telling me I'm not tall enough, or of body shape finger wagging in general. I'm quite sure most clothes would indeed look better on me if I were 6 inches taller, but I don't avoid things I like because of it.

In any case, I think a lot of looks can be tweaked, which is what I do - just small steps to avoid being swamped. For example, in your first photo, the last button of the cardigan is unfastened, forming an inverted 'V' which draws the eye up to the waist. I do that a lot. I'd probably also swap that coat for something shorter and more fitted. And because my skeleton is still petite, I push up sleeves to show off slender wrists and I've always been drawn to trousers that end at the ankle bone (although only in warmer weather - I like a flash of skin but boot or sock not so much, so photos 3 and 4 don't work as well for me).

My hair is curly / wavy and quite thick (although again not as thick as it was) and I've worn it short and in lots of layers most of my adult life - not 'pixie' short but above my jawline. I've always maintained it's because my hair is wayward and I can't be bothered fighting it but it's entirely possible that there's something else going on subconsciously.

Uniqlo is a good place to achieve this look in an affordable way. They tend to have simple, well cut pieces, often in nice fabrics.

@CapEBarra differences in quality of fabric have been well explained in @Floisme‘s post. There are things one finds in some more expensive clothes that cannot be replicated at a much lower budget.

For instance, I’ve owned shirts from the original Jil Sander - and one from the Uniqlo / Jil Sander collaboration over lockdown. Surprisingly the design and cut was really excellent on the Uniqlo shirt, but the fabric was vile - strangely coated cotton that was more like plastic. Equally I adore the styling of Zara’s clothes - but nine times out of ten, when I step into a shop (and it’s one of the rare places I still visit in person) the limp, thin fabric and mean cutting / poor finishing prevent me from buying. (Only their denim skirts and Limited Edition things live up to expectation.)

So yes, it’s perfectly possible to replicate the sort of looks being discussed here - but it’s equally possible, with time and patience, to buy some original designs pre-owned - and enjoy marvelling over all the details designers have expended their knowledge and energy on.

Agree with both posts above, it is essential to make personalised tweaks to most outfits. I have never been fond of the fabrics at uniqlo or COS. They don't lie comfortably against my body and tend to be on the stiff/shiny side. I do like a lot of the silhouettes though, but the lie of the fabric is everything here.

I have noticed that most offerings at Oska, Sahara, etc are either viscose, tencel or unlisted altogether, there are rarely any items of pure wool, unless I am missing something. I also like browsing Follyology, which is another store I found via MN, yet so many items are badly photographed and no dimensions given. I think in the UK there is a presumption that most lose fitting garments are for the curvier shopper so are cut accordingly regardless our height. I wonder why that is? It may have something to do with out cultural leaning towards tighter fitting clothed on the whole,I don't know.

loose fitting not lose.

Oska, Sahara, etc are either viscose, tencel or unlisted altogether, there are rarely any items of pure wool,

The dresses I have from Oska are cotton, the boiled wool jackets are wool, one other jacket is 100% cotton and a raincoat is 70% cotton with a waterproof finish. Their knitwear is wool and they do masses of linen and cotton.

Viscose is a natural fibre. Tencel is a type of viscose but is produced with a closed loop chemical system so is greener than viscose. Tencel is arguably more environmentally friendly than cotton as the wood for it can be grown on poorer quality soil and uses less water. Tencel has a lovely silky feel to it and drapes and hangs beautifully. Palava use a lot of tencel too. It's not a cheap fabric.

I like the elements of the look you describe and also find it's a difficult style for which to shop. I think some brands do bits of it, but even with some of the places you mentioned, there are things that irk me!
Partly, I think it's due to being short (5'3)
Toast: buy some of their denim/ cord and lots of their solovair/ fracap footwear but don't like their penchant for large scale pattern and viscose. And prefer a more fitted silhouette. I think their knitwear is also not good value for the cost and lots of blends.
Margaret Howell: expensive ( for me) and have sent back everything I've ever bought as it's too big. Plus, I think, in truth, it's just a bit too austere for me, much as I admire the look on others.
Brora: still buy from here but fewer things that I like than say 15 years ago. Mourn the loss of their old patch pocket and 40s- style collared cardigans and hate their colour blocking/ frills and tiers on every skirt. Also wish their collaboration with Liberty wasn't in mostly in viscose. I love liberty print, and I think it softens the look you describe.
Nygardsanna: buy from here fairly regularly but mostly their lovely single breasted slightly over sized coats in harris tweed/ linen for summer. Some wide leg trousers.
The main stumbling block is the hassle of returns and the fact I don't suit most of their staple colour palette.
I also like a bit of fairisle, but that's really popular just now, so not difficult to find. Bosie is my favourite.
So, OP.. If you know of brands that will fill those gaps, please let me know!

Unfortunately most of these brands have a tendency to not illustrate their clothing on models, particularly from the rear. Sahara at least follows through with this and even has videos. Follyology is appallingly presented, and even Toast have only recently bothered to include more models and rear shots.

This seems to be worse on sites that curate multiple brands.

On a handful of websites a lot of these brands don't even list the sizing or full composition. It absolutely does make it trickier to shop, and at higher than average prices, not a risk I am prepared to take.
Regarding tencel, I simply don't like it (the feel).

I feel similarly to you, and find Nygardsanna way too large. The smallest skirt waist from there left room for me to fit a stuffed pillow down it. I am a regular UK8.

I love 'Handworked' but they have so little stock it isn't worth looking more than once a year.
Poetry are lovely too, and thankfully provide customer reviews, but often sell out in my best colours or sizes fast.

Wrap was decent but leans too far towards fast trends - most of this years cashmere is gimmicky and puff shouldered/sleeved.

Agree about Toast patterns - I recall when Toast made lovely tweeds and garments that went in somewhat at the waist. The colour palette has always been a bit autumnal, not too great for pale ashy blondes, which is reflected in their choice of models I think.

@JaneHelier have you encountered La Fetiche? Purely for the aesthetic pleasure. In terms of clothes it’s one of the places I feel most at home right now, and the few things I’ve had from them are breathtaking. I’ve linked to a jumper from a previous collection, though most of these have sold out in other colours. It is the opposite of cheap (though they do have the odd sale). I imagine as time goes by pieces might appear on pre-worn sites. But even when I have no intention of buying, they have such an eye, and employ such treasurable methods, that I find the website indescribably soothing and restorative.

Generally when I mention them here the reaction is the online equivalent of posting filth through my door, so … 🤷🏽‍♀️

I agree about Nysgardsanna. I'm a fairly standard 8, occasionally a 6 and their high waisted trousers fit well but any skirts have been really big around the waist.
I'm swithering about this cardigan https://www.nygardsanna.se/autumn-news/grandma-cardigan-1_^^_

Thanks for the link, something about the quirkiness of la fetiche does appeal to me @QuaterMiss !

When I first came across the brand - maybe 2018/19 - it took a few weeks to adjust my eyes to their colour palette and (even by my standards) extreme crunchiness. Now, pretty much every other brand feels vaguely disappointing and unimaginative by comparison.

The layout of the La Fetich site reminds me of Benetton! I am dazzled by the primaries
Can't locate anything there that fits with my personal vibe though.

I'm not super imaginative when it comes to clothes, I want suppleness and fluidity, and oh lord what I would give for a non-chunky knit that covered my backside. I so wish that I could find fine knits that flow with the body, which I suppose is the complete antithesis to Toast, Howell, etc.

I love the drapes and thin layers of the 1920's art set, but without the patterns.

In my teens I had a longish, thin, crimson cashmere cardi wih pockets. I would give anything to find something like that again. It was so fluid and soft as opposed to bulky. I love a lot of the Japanese silhouettes but wish the lines were a touch softer. I think we are living in a very chunky era!

My two pence is that for such styles (which I love) to work well, it takes a bit of training to wear/adjust/re-tailor things so that they end at precisely the right point. This concerns sleeves, end of jackets, and most importantly, trousers. It's actually quite difficult and I've struggled but I've now developed own personal metrics for where different things should end, also in combination with each other.

And such metrics is quite different from the kind of volumes we wore for the last twenty years, and one has to look at Japan in a way, to see voluminous clothing that does good work / end at precisely the right points. The designers you mention are people generally inspired by Japanese designs (Studio Nicholson goes on and on about Japanese clothing) and Margaret Howell is very popular in Japan.