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Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome

811 replies

AnnieSnap · 24/05/2023 11:40

Dressmaking has becoming a topic in the ‘No Buy, Low Buy’ thread. In order not to derail that and because it deserves its own thread, I invite anyone who would like to make some of their own clothes or those already doing so to post here about fears, joys, problems, successes etc.

Having binged watched several serious of The Great British Sewing Bee when was laid-up with Covid and because that corresponded with the woman who did my little alterations stopping doing it, I was inspired to get a cheap sewing machine to try to do my own. That was just 16-months-ago and, having no previous experience at all, I quickly fell in love with sewing. I am not usually very patient with tasks (I have great patience with people and animals, but not with much else). Surprisingly, I have endless patience with sewing even when things go wrong 🤷‍♀️ At the beginning, I never dreamed I would be able to make clothes, but it turns out I can. So far, I’ve made dresses, skirts, tops, trousers, a gilet, a couple of things for my husband and even a jacket and a coat 😮

I try to buy ‘deadstock’ fabric when possible in the interests of the environment. It is fabric that is overstock from designers or big companies like Boden, M&S, Nobody’s Child and all the rest, or even fabric they have had produced and have changed their minds about using. I was horrified to discover that up to recently, all of this, tons and tons every year, went into landfill. It still does if it isn’t sold.

Any sewists (as we’re called these days) or potential sewists, what’s your story? And don’t forget the new series of The Great British Sewing Bee starts tonight. BBC1 9pm.

@pigtailsandall @theatrical @Zipps @remuslupinsbiggestgroupie @daisywaisy

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InMySpareTime · 03/06/2023 17:24

I made a summer vest this afternoon just by folding a stretch jersey and drawing round an existing vest for a vague shape.
French seams down the sides and hems zigzag in the stretch direction and straight where it won't stretch.
Fits nicely and is lovely and cool.
I'd add a photo but my arms aren't long enough for a selfie Blush

Floisme · 03/06/2023 17:38

clowniform mine are in a heavyweight cotton that also has this soft finish. (That's if we're talking about the same Toast trousers - they sound very similar.) One reason I haven't tried making them yet is that nothing in my fabric stash has quite the same structured but also fluid feel. I might see what fabrics M&M recommend and just go with that, although then my fabric stash will keep on growing unchecked Shock

PickAChew · 03/06/2023 18:08

Nice haul, @clowniform . I love the pietra pants and gave plans to make some more, sometime soon. They're flattering and enjoyable to make, so win-win.

Re: sewing machine tension woes, as well as paying attention to the bobbin, make sure you thread the top thread with the presser foot up so that the tension discs are open.

AnnieSnap · 03/06/2023 19:27

I hear you @clowniform I only want to make the stuff that brings me joy. Making swimwear and underwear isn’t for me, although I may give the odd tee shirt a go!

@Rosenspants My pleasure and thank you 🙂

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Almahart · 03/06/2023 19:32

Oh my goodness @clowniform, that all looks wonderful!

KeepScrapingBy · 03/06/2023 20:22

Glad I found this thread! I’ve been sewing since my early teens. Dresses, skirts, tops, evening wear, wedding dresses, coats, jackets, you name it. Never done underwear or swimwear though. I’m a bit scared of stretchy fabrics.
I don’t think looking homemade is a bad thing. If anything it’s a conversation starter when people ask if I made it myself. I’m very proud to say yes! Better a homemade individual unique garment than a boring one made in some sweatshop. Your technique gets better with time and practice too. So just keep going and your work will start to look more professional!

CocoPlum · 03/06/2023 20:46

clowniform · 02/06/2023 20:13

Regarding 'apple' or 'rectangle' shapes (in terminology, a relatively wider waist) the good news is that adding width at the waist is the one of the easiest fit modifications to make to most patterns. The best thing is to pick a size that fits your shoulders, which is usually best predicted by upper bust (some brands call this 'chest') measurement, as that's where the garment hangs from. Or for bottoms, the hip measurement is key as that reflects the crotch curve best. That's why the 'official' listings are either for pear or hourglass. If you check the finished garment measurements for individual patterns (including wearing ease) you may find you'll be fine without altering the waist at all.

Some of the best modern resources on fitting I've found are ones targeted at plus sized (even if you are not in that size bracket), like the Cashmerette book and the Curvy Sewing Collective (their series on apple shapes).

For trousers I'm a fan of the 'Top Down Centre Out' method. Amazing YT series demonstrating it by . I wasted so much time and fabric on more traditional methods before, and was on the point of just resigning myself to wearing skirts or elastic waist culottes forever, and now a new pattern for unforgiving selvedge denim just took me £3 worth of muslin and about 15 mins in front of a mirror to sort out (Anna Allan Helene jeans, if interested)

@clowniform thank you so much for this considerate and lengthy response and resources 💐

Honestly it's difficult to know what to make, I don't feel very good about my body at the moment and I can't work out what's flattering, which is leaving me in paralysis on what to make!

FrontEnd · 03/06/2023 21:44

@CosmosQueen this the pattern that got me into sewing clothes. It is super flattering (see video on listing), incredibly simple to make, clear instructions and there's a YouTube tutorial linked in the description so you can get a feel for the process before you purchase / have a go. They sell as paper or digital. I made up in linen and wear over a t-shirt tank....have a look and see what you think. https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/901853558/asymmetric-top-sewing-digital-pdf

Asymmetric Top Sewing Digital PDF Pattern Easy Linen Top - Etsy UK

This Patterns & Blueprints item by SewClothing has 2463 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from United States. Listed on 03 Jun, 2023

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/901853558/asymmetric-top-sewing-digital-pdf

clowniform · 04/06/2023 21:31

Thanks for the kind comments, all!

Floisme that fabric sounds lovely and hard to source a dupe indeed! I have a small but slightly awkward fabric stash as most was acquired online during lockdowns so not quite right for the pattern I originally planned for them, but also not necessarily bad fabrics in themselves, so I don't want to get rid of them either....

PickAChew I've only made the tapered leg Pietras so far but am definitely going to make a linen wide leg pair for wafting around this summer (if we ever get one). You are so right that they are satisfying to make, just enough challenge.

CocoPlum I do sympathise! Personally I've found sewing quite liberating in terms of viewing my body more neutrally rather than negatively. Even to seeing the Covid weight fluctuations and shape changes as new challenges (on good days!)

FrontEnd that's fabulous and a perfect match for a maxi! Are you using a pattern or drafting? I'm in awe of people who can draft, drape or freehand like InMySpareTime.

AnnieSnap thanks so much for starting this thread! I think a lot of my issue with knits and underwear is the faff of sourcing good materials in the right colours. If someone gave me all I needed in a kit (and access to a coverstitch) I would be ok with them. Swimwear and activewear (the more lycra-y stuff) is definitely NEVER AGAIN territory, though.

Delectable · 04/06/2023 21:39

@AnnieSnap where do you get those good quality fabric?
I'll like to bling up a pair of trainers and some cotton outfits with mettalic paint and glitter paint. Which do you recommend? I'll like rose gold, green etc. Saw some pens on Ebay but don't know where to start.

I also want to add some embellishments ie flat back pearls and rhinestones. Thanks.

Delectable · 04/06/2023 21:47

@AnnieSnap where do you get those good quality fabric?
I'll like to bling up a pair of trainers and some cotton outfits with mettalic paint and glitter paint. Which do you recommend? I'll like rose gold, green etc. Saw some pens on Ebay but don't know where to start.

I also want to add some embellishments ie flat back pearls and rhinestones. Thanks.

noodlezoodle · 05/06/2023 20:29

FrontEnd · 03/06/2023 21:44

@CosmosQueen this the pattern that got me into sewing clothes. It is super flattering (see video on listing), incredibly simple to make, clear instructions and there's a YouTube tutorial linked in the description so you can get a feel for the process before you purchase / have a go. They sell as paper or digital. I made up in linen and wear over a t-shirt tank....have a look and see what you think. https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/901853558/asymmetric-top-sewing-digital-pdf

I like the look of this one, might have to give it a go. I am avoiding sewing a quilt at the moment so this might get me back at the machine.

FrontEnd · 05/06/2023 21:00

@noodlezoodle go for it and report back! I hope you like it as much as I did.

AnnieSnap · 08/06/2023 21:17

Delectable · 04/06/2023 21:39

@AnnieSnap where do you get those good quality fabric?
I'll like to bling up a pair of trainers and some cotton outfits with mettalic paint and glitter paint. Which do you recommend? I'll like rose gold, green etc. Saw some pens on Ebay but don't know where to start.

I also want to add some embellishments ie flat back pearls and rhinestones. Thanks.

I can’t offer any direction on blinging anything up, but the best ranges of fabrics are Guthrie Ghani, Lamazi and Fabric Godmother.

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pastabest · 08/06/2023 21:36

Minerva has a huuuuuuuge range and I've always had the quality I would have expected for what I have paid.

they are on the more expensive side though unless you are one of their craft club members but they regularly have 25% off or more sales.

PickAChew · 08/06/2023 22:10

I'm not a fan of Minerva. As you mentioned, they expect you to pay a subscription to get more normal prices, I've had a few things from them not as described and and I've heard of some pretty shoddy customer service from them.

Plus, their website sucks on a phone.

AnnieSnap · 09/06/2023 13:32

@pastabest and @PickAChew also worth bearing in mind that Minerva sometimes charge more for some fabric than other retailers. Not often, but it’s important to check. I shop with them for their regular sales on certain brands. I love Dashboard Studio prints. They sometimes have 15% off them and as I subscribe to their ‘craft club’, I get 25% off (so long as you are careful what you buy, it saves a fair bit over a year).

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Waterfallgirl · 14/06/2023 23:21

@witheringrowan @pastabest @Floisme @HecticHedgehog
thank you all.

Curlingstone · 17/06/2023 11:14

Inspired by some bag talk on the Parisienne thread I'm having a go at making an origami bag. Something simple to get into the sewing swing.
Do people prefer rotary cutters or scissors? Never used rotary but look easy on the Bee. But then you need a massive cutting mat to save the dining room table! Any simple solutions? Thanks

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 17/06/2023 12:17

Are you using a specific tutorial for the bag?

I made a very simple beach bag last weekend with a tie fastening. Quite pleased with it. Debating whether to do a boxed bottom on it but think it might make it too small.

Curlingstone · 17/06/2023 12:27

@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie bought a cheap (<£3) , simple pattern from Etsy which I can adapt/scale up etc once I've had a 1st attempt. Probs didn't need one, but want an early success to spur me on.

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 17/06/2023 12:29

Curlingstone · 17/06/2023 12:27

@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie bought a cheap (<£3) , simple pattern from Etsy which I can adapt/scale up etc once I've had a 1st attempt. Probs didn't need one, but want an early success to spur me on.

Would love to see a picture when it’s done!

Hiddendoor · 17/06/2023 14:11

I'm making a dress for DD - have to fully line the bodice and figure out how to out the zip in too. She's 12 so ultra critical and has exacting standards! I've no pattern other than spending time studying a dress she quite liked in M&S.

Wish me luck! If it goes well, I can make myself a much better dress than those I've made before.

I also have patterns in the post - I used Flamingo Print because their price to print the pattern PDFs were pretty cheap but delivery had been sloooooooow.

AnnieSnap · 17/06/2023 21:59

@Curlingstone I have only just got around to using a rotary cutter and I do prefer it!

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