Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome

[AnnieSnap]

Dressmaking has becoming a topic in the ‘No Buy, Low Buy’ thread. In order not to derail that and because it deserves its own thread, I invite anyone who would like to make some of their own clothes or those already doing so to post here about fears, joys, problems, successes etc.

Having binged watched several serious of The Great British Sewing Bee when was laid-up with Covid and because that corresponded with the woman who did my little alterations stopping doing it, I was inspired to get a cheap sewing machine to try to do my own. That was just 16-months-ago and, having no previous experience at all, I quickly fell in love with sewing. I am not usually very patient with tasks (I have great patience with people and animals, but not with much else). Surprisingly, I have endless patience with sewing even when things go wrong 🤷‍♀️ At the beginning, I never dreamed I would be able to make clothes, but it turns out I can. So far, I’ve made dresses, skirts, tops, trousers, a gilet, a couple of things for my husband and even a jacket and a coat 😮

I try to buy ‘deadstock’ fabric when possible in the interests of the environment. It is fabric that is overstock from designers or big companies like Boden, M&S, Nobody’s Child and all the rest, or even fabric they have had produced and have changed their minds about using. I was horrified to discover that up to recently, all of this, tons and tons every year, went into landfill. It still does if it isn’t sold.

Any sewists (as we’re called these days) or potential sewists, what’s your story? And don’t forget the new series of The Great British Sewing Bee starts tonight. BBC1 9pm.

@pigtailsandall @theatrical @Zipps @remuslupinsbiggestgroupie @daisywaisy

Today I have learned how to make button holes.

I use a rotary cutter but turn to scissors for fiddly bits. I use a pair of A1 cutting mats, bought relatively inexpensively from that big, evil online empire.

Nice one @RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie -buttonholes are always nerve wracking, no matter how long you've been sewing, because they offer so many ways in which to ruin the lovely thing you've just made!

Absolutely! I've made a very straightforward wrap skirt for dd with the button hole to thread the ties through, so it's a nice big hole which maybe was a good thing to start with!

Just reviving the thread to say I've finally got around to ordering some patterns - the T&B Skye dress and Jaimie PJs. I'm going to try them using old sheets first, I think!

Good luck! The good thing about TATB patterns is that there are always sew-along or Instagram or blog posts showing how people have made them. I've found them really useful if I've struggled.

I'm making a pair of Deer & Doe Genet shorts, first time I've made a toile aand it's been much needed as the sizing is MASSIVE. I need to take in the side seams, shift the front pleats and see how I get on.

Start with the Jaimie's - it's the pattern my local sewing teacher always starts with.

@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie enjoy and share pictures when you make them 🙂

If I’m a 14 should I cut to the size she says is a size 14?

No! Check your measurements against the chart, sizing on sewing patterns is wild. You might well fit the 14 but never assume you will. I am the voice of bitter experience.

No, most sewing patterns are a couple of sizes smaller then the equivalent size in the shops. I tend to go with the size that equates to my measurements. I’m a size 14 but tend to cut out a size 18. I did a course last year and the teacher advised to take your hip measurement sitting down to all enough movement in the garment.

If it's a TATB pattern, definitely not! I'm a RTW size 8-10, but a 2-4 in TATB. A 14 will be WAY too big!
I think her sizing is on the generous side, so look at the finished garment measurements too.

As I've now learned the basics and feel more confident with using my machine (being a real beginner a few months ago), I'd admit to finding I'm going to need more help with fitting in general. Especially as I have to grade to a bigger size on the hips than everywhere else and often lengthen the pattern too. Where a pattern has finished garment measurements, I do find it helpful comparing it to something similar that I already own, which is well fitting.
@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie I made the TATB Margot PJs which are very similar to the Jaimie ones, but the pattern that's in the Love at First Stitch book that I was using to get started. I was so pleased with how they turned out as my first garment ever. I am a largish 14 dress size and iirc I made the TATB size 6 at the waist, graded to a 7 at the hip.
Meanwhile, I have made two TATB Stevie dresses and one blouse. I feel the blouse works better owing to the trouble I have fitting my hips for the dresses, but quite pleased with myself! I am going to toile a True Bias Ogden cami using some cheap polycotton next as it'll be my first go at bust darts.

I wear the dress back to front!

Margot PJs

Oh I have this pattern but not made it up yet. In the past Deer & Doe patterns have always fit me really well (going off the size chart and my French RTW size) but I have only made dresses and top patterns so far. I am quite pear-ish (which is what they draft for, to be fair) but not tall, sounds like I will definitely need a toile too.

Just a heads up that Atelier Brunette summer sale is on.
Their fabrics are nice but not worth full price IMO, but the best aspect is matching notions! I ordered buttons and a zip to finally complete a shirt and dress I made last year (bought in last year's sale in fact!) thinking at the time I could find alternatives myself hollow laughter

I also appreciate their limited and consistent colour palette, bought some rib knit and cotton in the same shade to make something like this Albaray knit&woven dress. Plan to use the racer back Blomma tank pattern from Paradise patterns (free if you sign up for her newsletter but looks like this) as a base and just gather up a rectangle for the skirt.

No, no, noooo! As others have said, sewing pattern sizes are different to ‘ready to wear’ sizes and they vary between pattern designers/companies. Always look at the body measurements on the pattern and go with those. Remember not to let get to you. The size number is Irrelevant. Our measurements haven’t changed.

Thanks for the heads-up @clowniform I love Atelier Brunette 🙂

Yes definitely use the finished garment sizes. I wear a 8/10 but according to measurements I should be a TATB 4/5 (i measure size 5 round my hips but 3-4 round my waist 😔). But every time I've made a TATB in thiset absolutely hangs off me.

Sorry I don’t think I asked properly. I meant the size that she says equates to a 1, so around a 5 iirc.

@Rosenspants Brilliant! Love the dress.

Did you mean "the size she equates to a 14"?

Anyway, still no. Measure yourself and compare to her finished measurements, not the sizing measurements.

I did! Thanks!

Not the finished measurements (sorry to contradict @CocoPlum). Your measurements to the measurements on the pattern. The finished garment measurements are where ‘ease’ comes in. We can’t wear a garment that measures the same as our body. We need to get in and out of it, and move whilst wearing it. That said, if what you are making is an ‘oversized’ of boxy style, you may want to look at the finished garment measurement and if you feel it would have more ease than you’d like, you can choose to size down accordingly.