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Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome

811 replies

AnnieSnap · 24/05/2023 11:40

Dressmaking has becoming a topic in the ‘No Buy, Low Buy’ thread. In order not to derail that and because it deserves its own thread, I invite anyone who would like to make some of their own clothes or those already doing so to post here about fears, joys, problems, successes etc.

Having binged watched several serious of The Great British Sewing Bee when was laid-up with Covid and because that corresponded with the woman who did my little alterations stopping doing it, I was inspired to get a cheap sewing machine to try to do my own. That was just 16-months-ago and, having no previous experience at all, I quickly fell in love with sewing. I am not usually very patient with tasks (I have great patience with people and animals, but not with much else). Surprisingly, I have endless patience with sewing even when things go wrong 🤷‍♀️ At the beginning, I never dreamed I would be able to make clothes, but it turns out I can. So far, I’ve made dresses, skirts, tops, trousers, a gilet, a couple of things for my husband and even a jacket and a coat 😮

I try to buy ‘deadstock’ fabric when possible in the interests of the environment. It is fabric that is overstock from designers or big companies like Boden, M&S, Nobody’s Child and all the rest, or even fabric they have had produced and have changed their minds about using. I was horrified to discover that up to recently, all of this, tons and tons every year, went into landfill. It still does if it isn’t sold.

Any sewists (as we’re called these days) or potential sewists, what’s your story? And don’t forget the new series of The Great British Sewing Bee starts tonight. BBC1 9pm.

@pigtailsandall @theatrical @Zipps @remuslupinsbiggestgroupie @daisywaisy

OP posts:
Thread gallery
119
BeretRaspberry · 02/06/2023 13:46

PickAChew · 02/06/2023 12:06

That would be fab, @BeretRaspberry and I'm tempted to get some, myself!

I have the Olya shirt waiting in the wings. I have a long queue in front of it, though!

I’ve just Googled that pattern - it looks fab! And would definitely look good in the pink.

I really need to get my backside into gear. I’m plus size and hate most store bought clothes but I still keep buying them in the hope they’ll be ok, yet they’re always as disappointing as ever!

NotSoLittle · 02/06/2023 15:44

Thank you @FrontEnd @AnnieSnap @AnnaMagnani @pastabest for the advice about material

SilverSilverStreet · 02/06/2023 17:06

Standfast and Barracks used to print Liberty Tana Lawn and sell the seconds. I still have some dress lengths I bought from them. I agree that it's beautiful to sew with and to wear.

Now they just make their own, which I imagine is very similar and at £15/metre is cheaper than in Liberty's sale. They did produce a much wider range, I don't know what's happened there.

Here's a link to their mostly furnishing weight fabric seconds. For example. this Christian Lacroix Butterfly fabric is £124/metre at full price, or £20/metre for Standfast and Barracks' seconds.

They are very helpful on the phone and will send out free samples, or at least they did when I last ordered.

Here and here are their Facebook pages.

If I lived closer to Lancaster I'd be a frequent visitor to their factory shop.

SparkleHard · 02/06/2023 17:25

CocoPlum · 02/06/2023 12:33

Clicked through to this. I identify most with the Apple shape. Which does not appear at all on their list!

I spotted that too and thought that was really odd. There must be companies out there that draft for apple shape?! If not, why is no one filling that gap? So many questions..

Merryoldgoat · 02/06/2023 18:06

@SilverSilverStreet

Those fabrics are stunning!

CosmosQueen · 02/06/2023 18:07

Frenchfancy · 31/05/2023 18:53

I don't think style and beauty is the place to be kind and fluffy to beginner sexists, there are other threads for that.

The style and beauty of homemade clothes is that they fit, they are made from the fabric of your choice so you get to be an individual.

But you need to learn the skills otherwise your clothes will just look homemade.

Of course you don't need to start out with sleeve plackets, but I suggest that your teacher should know what they are talking about otherwise it is the blind leading the blind. Some of the indies and YouTube channels have only been sewing a couple of years and have no training. There are so many great resources out the that you can learn from.

Blimey!
🙄

CosmosQueen · 02/06/2023 18:16

I haven’t done any sewing for years; I used to make all my and the DCs clothes from necessity rather than fun but I quite miss sitting down at the sewing machine.
I’m not sure now how to even begin, it must be 30 years since I last sewed anything, I have no idea where to start, what size patterns to buy (I’m an 16-18 size) etc.
Any suggestions very welcome 🙏

CocoPlum · 02/06/2023 18:17

SparkleHard · 02/06/2023 17:25

I spotted that too and thought that was really odd. There must be companies out there that draft for apple shape?! If not, why is no one filling that gap? So many questions..

Especially for menopausal age women?!

PickAChew · 02/06/2023 19:38

@CosmosQueen I eased myself back in after a long hiatus with a couple of magazines, which helped me to gauge what was around on terms of retailers and pattern companies. Love Sewing and Simply Sewing are both great at giving you rabbit holes to jump down and the odd usable pattern.

Do you currently have a machine?

clowniform · 02/06/2023 20:13

Regarding 'apple' or 'rectangle' shapes (in terminology, a relatively wider waist) the good news is that adding width at the waist is the one of the easiest fit modifications to make to most patterns. The best thing is to pick a size that fits your shoulders, which is usually best predicted by upper bust (some brands call this 'chest') measurement, as that's where the garment hangs from. Or for bottoms, the hip measurement is key as that reflects the crotch curve best. That's why the 'official' listings are either for pear or hourglass. If you check the finished garment measurements for individual patterns (including wearing ease) you may find you'll be fine without altering the waist at all.

Some of the best modern resources on fitting I've found are ones targeted at plus sized (even if you are not in that size bracket), like the Cashmerette book and the Curvy Sewing Collective (their series on apple shapes).

For trousers I'm a fan of the 'Top Down Centre Out' method. Amazing YT series demonstrating it by . I wasted so much time and fabric on more traditional methods before, and was on the point of just resigning myself to wearing skirts or elastic waist culottes forever, and now a new pattern for unforgiving selvedge denim just took me £3 worth of muslin and about 15 mins in front of a mirror to sort out (Anna Allan Helene jeans, if interested)

Apple

https://curvysewingcollective.com/category/tutorials/common-fit-adjustments-for-your-shape/apple/

CosmosQueen · 02/06/2023 20:24

@PickAChew yes, I am ashamed to admit I have a Janone one still sitting in the box it was delivered in months ago when I sort of imagined getting back to sewing 🫣
I will get some magazines and that looks interesting @clowniform , thank you both very much.

SilverSilverStreet · 02/06/2023 20:51

Merryoldgoat · 02/06/2023 18:06

@SilverSilverStreet

Those fabrics are stunning!

I bought some beautiful spray-dyed velvet from there several years ago, for two sets of floor-length curtains. Imagine what that would have cost at full price.

I look at them every day and am pleased with my choice.

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 02/06/2023 22:31

Rosenspants · 02/06/2023 13:20

Thank you. I'll have a proper look tomorrow. I might just have a play around with a bit of old sheet and see what happens!

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 02/06/2023 22:33

@CosmosQueen 'Blimey' is exactly right! Grin

AnnieSnap · 02/06/2023 23:03

BeretRaspberry · 02/06/2023 10:06

I was thinking of cotton lawn as @PickAChew suggested (thank you). I’ve seen some on Empress Mills. What do we think?

https://www.empressmills.co.uk/premium-cotton-lawn-fabric-fuchsia?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIp82uhZKd_wIVVOztCh39wgRQEAQYASABEgIxa_D_BwE

It’s really nice. If it’s your first dress. Cotton lawn is good, if you are a little bit more experienced a Viscose will have more drape which might be better for that style. A cotton just won’t be as ‘floaty’, but would still work for the style.

OP posts:
AnnieSnap · 02/06/2023 23:11

CosmosQueen · 02/06/2023 18:16

I haven’t done any sewing for years; I used to make all my and the DCs clothes from necessity rather than fun but I quite miss sitting down at the sewing machine.
I’m not sure now how to even begin, it must be 30 years since I last sewed anything, I have no idea where to start, what size patterns to buy (I’m an 16-18 size) etc.
Any suggestions very welcome 🙏

Always go off your measurements with sewing patterns. Their sizes do not correspond to sizing of shop bought clothes. Have a look at thefoldline.com They sell a wide range of patterns. You can filter for many preferences etc. when you look at a pattern, there will be a picture of the sizing page toward the end of the photos. This will show the measurements for bust, waist and hips. There will also be advice on the best fabrics for that pattern and sewing level recommended.

OP posts:
AnnaMagnani · 03/06/2023 06:46

CosmosQueen · 02/06/2023 18:16

I haven’t done any sewing for years; I used to make all my and the DCs clothes from necessity rather than fun but I quite miss sitting down at the sewing machine.
I’m not sure now how to even begin, it must be 30 years since I last sewed anything, I have no idea where to start, what size patterns to buy (I’m an 16-18 size) etc.
Any suggestions very welcome 🙏

I would buy something that is designed to be a loose fit so no fitting concerns, as a confidence builder. The Foldline has picks for beginners and also works out what size you are, as you are a different size in everything.

Or do children's wear, again a lot less fit involved.

When you have picked up more confidence, then go for something actually designed with 16-18 in mind like Cashmerette, who will also talk you through bust adjustments.

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 03/06/2023 15:04

Unfortunately I’ve buggered up my machine this afternoon. Was just doing a simple bag as a gift but the thread is going all birds nest-ish on the bottom. Can’t be bothered to fight with it now as we’ve got family coming for dinner, so it’s been put back in its bag in disgrace until tomorrow.

pastabest · 03/06/2023 15:16

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 03/06/2023 15:04

Unfortunately I’ve buggered up my machine this afternoon. Was just doing a simple bag as a gift but the thread is going all birds nest-ish on the bottom. Can’t be bothered to fight with it now as we’ve got family coming for dinner, so it’s been put back in its bag in disgrace until tomorrow.

When that happens it's nearly always because of a threading issue at the bottom.

most likely - the bobbin has been put in incorrectly, or hasnt had the 'tail'/thread pulled through enough, or it has been wound incorrectly.

If thats not the case it might be that the top thread hasn't been threaded through the machine correctly.

Either way it can usually can be fixed by rethreading the top thread and taking the bobbin out and making sure that it's re-inserted correctly and the bottom thread pulled up and out with a nice long tail going behind your pressed foot.

If that doesn't fix it come back....

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 03/06/2023 16:16

Thanks, @pastabest I changed the bobbin but it didn't help, so think it's something to do with the top thread. Will try again tomorrow.

Floisme · 03/06/2023 16:30

I am always, always putting the bobbin in upside down, even though there's a diagram etched on my machine to show me. Confused

clowniform · 03/06/2023 16:48

Went for a mooch around Liberty with a friend today and came back with 2m of this pink&red and 2.5m of Capel (in mustardy yellow, doesn't seem to be online). Also bought a Merchant&Mills pattern (Quinn trouser) which has recently come out in paper, hurrah! They look very like the Toast Annie trousers I love, so I'm geekily excited to compare the exact measurements and construction.

Anyway, the pink/red lawn is earmarked for an oversized dad-style camp collar Hawaiian shirt (ordinarily wouldn't need 2m for such but the print is directional), but not sure what to do with the Capel print. In the shop I thought I'd use it and try to copy one of Liberty's own Gallery shirtdresses but once home realised I have a mustard (albeit solid) shirtdress already (Marilla Walker Isca). A shirt or top would leave me with awkward leftover amounts. Now thinking maybe fancy pyjamas, like the Nina Lee Piccadilly set.

@lndnbrdge91 you mentioned Nina Lee before, is this one you've tried?

Sorry for all the links 😀I enjoy reading what you're all getting up to so hope others feel similarly!

Liberty Fabrics Charles House Tana Lawn™ Cotton | Liberty

A typical Art Nouveau style design, the graphic flower sprigs have been abstracted into almost entirely geometric shapes, creating a regular grid formation with

https://www.libertylondon.com/uk/charles-house-tana-lawn%E2%84%A2-cotton-000768733.html

Floisme · 03/06/2023 16:58

Ha! I too have that Merchant and Mills pattern and I also bought it in the hope of replicating some Toast trousers (although I can't remember what they're called)! Not tried making them yet though.

I envy you being able to go and rummage in Libertys. The internet's great but it's not the same.

clowniform · 03/06/2023 17:21

@Floisme , glad to have some backing beyond my own wishful thinking! The Toast ones show up every season but most commonly in denim. I'm thinking of making pairs in at least corduroy, twill and poplin. I swear Toast once did them in velvet, but I never saw them IRL and can't quite imagine how that worked with the slightly utilitarian vibe.

I also initially bought Closet Core's Pietra pattern to mimic Toast Alix trousers, and now prefer the Pietras anyway!

Pietra Shorts & Pants Pattern | Closet Core Patterns

The Pietra Pants & Shorts are the best of both worlds; a flat front, high-waisted silhouette with the comfort of an elastic waist in the back. Featuring lengthening panels in the front with slanted hip pockets and a hidden waist stay, you’ll never want...

https://closetcorepatterns.com/products/pietra-pants-shorts-pattern?variant=39419178483846

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