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Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome

811 replies

AnnieSnap · 24/05/2023 11:40

Dressmaking has becoming a topic in the ‘No Buy, Low Buy’ thread. In order not to derail that and because it deserves its own thread, I invite anyone who would like to make some of their own clothes or those already doing so to post here about fears, joys, problems, successes etc.

Having binged watched several serious of The Great British Sewing Bee when was laid-up with Covid and because that corresponded with the woman who did my little alterations stopping doing it, I was inspired to get a cheap sewing machine to try to do my own. That was just 16-months-ago and, having no previous experience at all, I quickly fell in love with sewing. I am not usually very patient with tasks (I have great patience with people and animals, but not with much else). Surprisingly, I have endless patience with sewing even when things go wrong 🤷‍♀️ At the beginning, I never dreamed I would be able to make clothes, but it turns out I can. So far, I’ve made dresses, skirts, tops, trousers, a gilet, a couple of things for my husband and even a jacket and a coat 😮

I try to buy ‘deadstock’ fabric when possible in the interests of the environment. It is fabric that is overstock from designers or big companies like Boden, M&S, Nobody’s Child and all the rest, or even fabric they have had produced and have changed their minds about using. I was horrified to discover that up to recently, all of this, tons and tons every year, went into landfill. It still does if it isn’t sold.

Any sewists (as we’re called these days) or potential sewists, what’s your story? And don’t forget the new series of The Great British Sewing Bee starts tonight. BBC1 9pm.

@pigtailsandall @theatrical @Zipps @remuslupinsbiggestgroupie @daisywaisy

OP posts:
Thread gallery
119
BeretRaspberry · 01/06/2023 17:38

I need to catch up with this thread properly. I bought this dress from Next that I’m about to add adjustable straps to. I really fancy making a dress in this style in a hot pink. I’ve found a tutorial so just need the fabric. Can anyone recommend some fabric for me please?

I really struggle and end up wasting stuff because I order what I think is good but then when it arrives, it’s not right.

Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome
PickAChew · 01/06/2023 18:06

A cotton lawn would be perfect for that or even a seersucker. I wouldn't use cotton gauze as it can be a bit bulky and the reverse will be different.

A viscose or tencel poplin would also work nicely but be a little less crisp - the frills would be floppier.

Sew me Sunshine has a great selection of strong pinks.

lndnbrdge91 · 01/06/2023 18:41

I have read the whole thread now and I know people love tatb patterns but I can't get on with them, as in the fit is always poor for me.

Has anyone else tried Nina lee patterns? She has a good mix which can form the basis of a really nice home sewn wardrobe - missing off collars/frills etc. although I do like the extra bits!

I am not on commission just really like her wearable patterns and the instructions are always spot on.

Interesting to hear what people are making and seeing where inspiration comes from. I love sewing but started in my 20's when it was not a cool hobby. Nice to see like minded crafters here!

PickAChew · 01/06/2023 18:53

I know a few people struggle with the fit of TATB. I'm on my 3rd tracing off of the Stella joggers which I've persevered with because I love the slim leg but I've had to drastically change the tilt of the waist with both a full belly adjustment and the opposite at the back as a flat bum adjustment.

Closet Core Plateau joggers fit me straight from the envelope but the pockets are too much of a faff for pyjamas!

kshaw · 01/06/2023 18:55

Puffincino · 24/05/2023 19:57

I'm good at the buying fabric part, quite happy to do the actual sewing but terrified by the cutting out stage.
^
Any tips on pattern lay out and actually picking up the scissors?^

Prep is the key. Make sure your fabric prewashed and pressed. The right tools and a good surface to do it on 😊

SparkleHard · 01/06/2023 19:42

Different companies draft for different body shapes. This article has a table which shows who drafts for which shape and also, for some of the companies, what height they draft for.

Tilly and the Buttons draft for pear shapes, so if that’s not your body shape you need to make a few adjustments to make it work. It’s very rare for me that a pattern works straight out of the packet, but I’ve made enough of them to know what adjustments I’m likely to need, which makes the whole process a bit easier.

https://thefoldline.com/2019/03/09/the-sewing-pattern-tutorials-10-choosing-a-sewing-pattern-for-your-body-shape/

The Sewing Pattern Tutorials 10: choosing a sewing pattern for your body shape - The Fold Line

The Sewing Pattern Tutorials is a FREE sewing course where we will demystify dressmaking patterns. Here we talk about how to choose a sewing pattern.

https://thefoldline.com/2019/03/09/the-sewing-pattern-tutorials-10-choosing-a-sewing-pattern-for-your-body-shape/

FrontEnd · 01/06/2023 20:03

@AnnieSnap I hope this works for Liberty sale link! https://www.libertylondon.com/uk/department/fabric/collections/spring-summer/?start=0&sz=36

I made a long dress with tana lawn last weekend using a lengthened version of this pattern https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1172185388/pdf-pattern-s-3xl-side-split-dress and did a matching 4cm wide elastic belt worn high waisted for if I want it to look more fitted. Sew satisfying 😁

Liberty Fabrics Spring Summer Collection | Liberty

Liberty

https://www.libertylondon.com/uk/department/fabric/collections/spring-summer?start=0&sz=36

VimtoVimto · 01/06/2023 20:43

Thanks for this thread. I’ve been sewing since school and made a lot of my own clothes in the 1980’s. I successfully made a Stylearc Montana dress last summer and I’ve just ordered the TATB Skye dress as it looks ideal for holidays. I personally think I that something simple made well looks better than something complex botched.

NotSoLittle · 01/06/2023 21:09

Can anyone link to an explanation of different fabric types please? eg thought I might try making a skirt in cotton, but there's lawn, poplin etc. Don't know what any of those are and can only buy via mail order!

pastabest · 01/06/2023 21:21

NotSoLittle · 01/06/2023 21:09

Can anyone link to an explanation of different fabric types please? eg thought I might try making a skirt in cotton, but there's lawn, poplin etc. Don't know what any of those are and can only buy via mail order!

Its one of those things that's a bit 'knowledge comes with time' but a few places do a fabric sample book e.g.

https://www.mysewingbox.co.uk/products/fabric-sample-guide

And fabric sellers like minerva usually have a video of the fabric being moved to show the drape etc which I find quite useful.

Even within fabric types though there can be a lot of variation e.g. there's a huge difference between a high threadcount liberty tana cotton lawn and a cheap cotton lawn which is almost like a muslin fabric in thickness and quality.

Generally though lawn will be too light for a skirt without it being lined. Poplin is a much denser fabric often used for quilting as well as dressmaking.

Fabric Sample Guide | How to identify fabrics online

New and improved 2022 edition! Struggle to identify fabrics when buying online? Have something tangible for reference at home when working out what fabric to use for your project, and purchasing what you need, with our handy fabric sample booklet. This...

https://www.mysewingbox.co.uk/products/fabric-sample-guide

FrontEnd · 01/06/2023 21:40

@NotSoLittle they are all types of cotton. Generally "cotton" with no further description is the heaviest, poplin is lighter, shirt-like and lawn is the finest. Each type comes in many grades based on weight or fibre length. I linked above to Liberty who I use for tana lawn which is extremely fine, hard-wearing and has long fibres which means it takes detailed dye patterns very well. It feels more like silk (but none of the fragile downsides) because of this, it's priced more like a luxury fabric. That's why I catch it on sale! If you want to experiment with tana lawn before shelling out for metreage, there's a Coco&Wolf remnant store on Etsy that does little mixed bags for £5, called Coco&wolfsupplies (I think). Linen and tana lawn are my favourite dressmaking fabrics.

FrontEnd · 01/06/2023 21:42

Ah I x-posted with @pastabest and see I missed out the critical factor which is indeed thread count.

pastabest · 01/06/2023 21:48

Also most patterns do suggest what fabric types to use! I don't always stick to it but its an indicator of how drapey/thick/stretchy the fabric the pattern has been designed to use.

For novice fabric choosers the fabric suggestion on the pattern is probably the best place to start.

AnnaMagnani · 01/06/2023 22:12

This is far and away the most useful book I ever bought about dressmaking

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fabric-Fashion-Swatch-Revised-Second/dp/1913947610/ref=asc_df_1913947610/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=499247585259&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11366253297672434175&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045954&hvtargid=pla-1290587336128&psc=1

Most of the reason things end up looking homemade isn't the quality of your sewing, it's wrong fabric choice. Even DH, who doesn't know one end of a needle from the other can watch Sewing Bee and point out who has chosen the wrong fabric now, it totally ruins the garment.

mauveiscurious · 01/06/2023 22:32

I've just bought this unused in a charity shop - looks easy definitely making jumpsuit D

Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome
AnnieSnap · 02/06/2023 00:01

BeretRaspberry · 01/06/2023 17:38

I need to catch up with this thread properly. I bought this dress from Next that I’m about to add adjustable straps to. I really fancy making a dress in this style in a hot pink. I’ve found a tutorial so just need the fabric. Can anyone recommend some fabric for me please?

I really struggle and end up wasting stuff because I order what I think is good but then when it arrives, it’s not right.

Have a look on Minerva, Guthrie Ghani, Lamazi and Fabric Godmother. What type of fabric are you thinking of using?

OP posts:
AnnieSnap · 02/06/2023 00:10

NotSoLittle · 01/06/2023 21:09

Can anyone link to an explanation of different fabric types please? eg thought I might try making a skirt in cotton, but there's lawn, poplin etc. Don't know what any of those are and can only buy via mail order!

Hope this helps. There will be other types of fabrics covered by Lauren, who owns the company. Have a look under her ‘blog’ link.

Thank you @FrontEnd

https://guthrie-ghani.co.uk/blog/understanding-woven-cotton-fabric-for-dressmaking

Understanding woven cotton fabric for dressmaking

Part One

https://guthrie-ghani.co.uk/blog/understanding-woven-cotton-fabric-for-dressmaking

OP posts:
clowniform · 02/06/2023 10:31

Hello S&B sewists! I knew how to sew and used to do simple alterations and repairs, but really threw myself into it during the first lockdown and now make a good 3/4 of my own clothes (also a knitter). Not sure it's going to progress much above that as I've learned that just because I can sew knickers, basic tees and jersey polonecks etc. it's just not worth the time/effort usually when there are still reasonable high street options I like for those items.
On the other hand, it has made me even pickier about most other high street clothes, every shop from budget to higher end seems to be using the most appalling skimpy limp fabrics at the moment, even if the construction (rarely) passes a quick inspection. sniffs

My favourite things to sew are shirts and shirtdresses, working on a Paper Theory Olya shirt in some nice weighty linen/viscose. Not a pattern I would recommend for beginners, but very fun for more experienced shirtmakers (and it does come with a full video tutorial). The trickiest part is working out shoulder fit adjustments on those 90 degree angle seams.

Not sure if it's been mentioned but Helen's Closet is a good line for newer sewists. While also an influencer, the owner outsources the drafting to a professional cutter so the patterns are much more reliable than TATB, and she then focuses on the step-by-step tutorials and is active responding to questions. Not the most thrilling styles but a good range of basics and very 'hackable' (again, lots of examples and tutorials all over social media).

Rosenspants · 02/06/2023 10:43

I'm really enjoying following both threads and learning so much from other stitchers. @RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie I hope you don't leave. I am at a similar stage to you sewing wise and I hadn't ever even touched a sewing machine until a few months ago. TATB got me started and I've made a couple of wearable things from her patterns, which I'm proud of. Lots of mistakes along the way which I am learning to correct but determined not to let the perfect be the enemy of the good. Thank for the thread @AnnieSnap . Your Skye dress is lovely!

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 02/06/2023 11:14

Thanks @Rosenspants I’m still here!

I tried a load of stuff on in M&S today and most of it looked to be very simply constructed. Obviously better than I am currently, but it didn’t seem impossible. Quite a few if the skirts were just elasticated and/or drawstring waists and a number of the tops were just two pieces.

Loving the pink cotton lawn.

Is shirring difficult? I found a tutorial for a shirted dress that is ridiculously simple if the shirring itself isn’t too tricky.

Also, does anybody know an idiot proof tutorial for a flat front/elastic back waistband?

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 02/06/2023 11:15

Shirred not shirted.

PickAChew · 02/06/2023 12:06

That would be fab, @BeretRaspberry and I'm tempted to get some, myself!

I have the Olya shirt waiting in the wings. I have a long queue in front of it, though!

CocoPlum · 02/06/2023 12:33

SparkleHard · 01/06/2023 19:42

Different companies draft for different body shapes. This article has a table which shows who drafts for which shape and also, for some of the companies, what height they draft for.

Tilly and the Buttons draft for pear shapes, so if that’s not your body shape you need to make a few adjustments to make it work. It’s very rare for me that a pattern works straight out of the packet, but I’ve made enough of them to know what adjustments I’m likely to need, which makes the whole process a bit easier.

https://thefoldline.com/2019/03/09/the-sewing-pattern-tutorials-10-choosing-a-sewing-pattern-for-your-body-shape/

Clicked through to this. I identify most with the Apple shape. Which does not appear at all on their list!