Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome

[AnnieSnap]

Dressmaking has becoming a topic in the ‘No Buy, Low Buy’ thread. In order not to derail that and because it deserves its own thread, I invite anyone who would like to make some of their own clothes or those already doing so to post here about fears, joys, problems, successes etc.

Having binged watched several serious of The Great British Sewing Bee when was laid-up with Covid and because that corresponded with the woman who did my little alterations stopping doing it, I was inspired to get a cheap sewing machine to try to do my own. That was just 16-months-ago and, having no previous experience at all, I quickly fell in love with sewing. I am not usually very patient with tasks (I have great patience with people and animals, but not with much else). Surprisingly, I have endless patience with sewing even when things go wrong 🤷‍♀️ At the beginning, I never dreamed I would be able to make clothes, but it turns out I can. So far, I’ve made dresses, skirts, tops, trousers, a gilet, a couple of things for my husband and even a jacket and a coat 😮

I try to buy ‘deadstock’ fabric when possible in the interests of the environment. It is fabric that is overstock from designers or big companies like Boden, M&S, Nobody’s Child and all the rest, or even fabric they have had produced and have changed their minds about using. I was horrified to discover that up to recently, all of this, tons and tons every year, went into landfill. It still does if it isn’t sold.

Any sewists (as we’re called these days) or potential sewists, what’s your story? And don’t forget the new series of The Great British Sewing Bee starts tonight. BBC1 9pm.

@pigtailsandall @theatrical @Zipps @remuslupinsbiggestgroupie @daisywaisy

Aaargh, well I’d chosen this lovely pink double gauze, which turned out to be the fabric from hell, fraying and shedding lint everywhere. And probably because I’m more of a beginner than I’d thought, the instructions (after TATB patterns which I’ve started with ) were really hard for me to follow for some reason. I tried to use a walking foot and somehow I managed to break two needles 🤷‍♀️. Properly lost my sew-jo! It’s probably getting a bit late in the season for a sun dress now but wish I’d tried the TATB Skye sundress instead!

I have never got on with my walking foot. It didn’t help when I was machine quilting and during the pandemic I made a canvas awning and lots of the stuff I read told me to use it for that but it was fine without so I didn’t bother.

Re the double gauze, an awful lot of sewing knowledge is just knowing which fabrics are easy and which aren’t.

I do break needles regularly though. It doesn’t matter, they’re only expensive if they’re double, and you should replace them more often than you think in any case.

Thanks everyone.

@clowniform Yes, I was pleasantly surprised by the neck tucks. If I make another top, do you think I should put the neck tucks in and then bind over them?

My sister helped me measure and make a bodice toile for the Skye dress, so I’ve got no excuse for putting that off now!

The horror, @Rosenspants ! I too was fooled by all the rumours of double gauze being an easy sew. They've inevitably resulted in wadders, except for the £££ stuff (Nani Iro and Atelier Brunette), and even that won't stand up to serious unpicking -- as my Calvin wrap dress with 'bonus' triple buttonholes will attest to 🙄

@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie it sounds like the top is too big in other areas too so I'd be inclined to go down a size or two and see if tucks are still needed. But yes, tucking then binding would lie flatter. However as the neckline's bound, not faced, you can simply redraw the curve to a different shape, just make sure the few inches at centre front stay perpendicular to the grain/fold line to prevent any bumps there.

BTW, thanks for letting me sew vicariously through you all while stuck in bed with Covid. I had to retire with a Helena wrap dress freshly cut out. No doubt gravity will have done a number on the looong neckline curves by the time I can resume.

Thanks @clowniform The size down doesn’t fit me on the bust, so I need the bigger size and to cut down the shoulders etc. Redrawing the neck sounds scary, but I’ll have a play with another bit of sheet!

Sorry to hear you’re not well. Hope you’ve got plenty of books and somebody bringing you sustaining snacks etc. Hope you feel better soon.

Sorry for bombarding the thread. First Skye dress is done. I don't love the pattern and I don't think the shape loves me lot, but it was great for learning how to do things. My only complaint is that the instructions for fitting the skirt to the bodice were a bit crap.

Thank you for the well wishes @RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie ! I am well enough for fluffy things (books and knitting) but strictly no iron-wrangling.
You are zooming along. It possibly sounds like you are bigger than a sewing B cup (nothing to do with bra size, but difference between upper bust and full bust) so would need a smaller size for your frame and FBA?
Will wait for better-endowed MNers to chip in, I have rather the opposite fit issues 😅

Sew Direct have a half price sale on, I think for the bank holiday, if anyone hasn't seen. I'm browsing the costumes and developing overambitious Halloween plans 😆

I've not made the Skye dress but choosing a size where it fits around the upper bust would be the first priority with it. I rarely need a Fba, these days but recently made the Tessuti Alice top and ended up sizing down to avoid too much gapiness around the shoulders and armholes (and annoyingly, we've not had the weather to wear it, since!)

Hope you feel better soon, @clowniform . I'm just getting over covid, myself. Thankfully, I had just cut out a couple of easy pairs of pyjamas but standing at the ironing board with the snot and random sweats and aches slowed me right down! At least I didn't have the intense brain fog that I had last time.

Got the skirt out today and redid the waist band. Took out 3 inches of elastic and it looks loads better for it.

Have also learned never to make an elastic waistband that way again as the elastic keeps folding over. Found a suggestion on line to sew over it up the seams to keep it straight - it's partly working.

However the main learning has to be that I'm not going to make an elasticated waist band skirt again as it makes me look fat.

Would love to see a picture of the skirt.

Here’s the Skye. I don’t like the fabric- just bought something really cheap to try out the pattern. I think I’ll make it again, but not in floral print and will go longer. I might make the waist an inch or two longer as well. Struggling to find a fabric I like enough. Maybe a grey leopard print, if I can find one?

Thank you. I've ordered a couple of New Look 'Easy' patterns.

Sorry to derail but I have a large box of sewing accoutrements, cotton in every colour imaginable, bobbins, feet for sewing machines and scissors. Probably more.

Free to a good home, North Somerset. Collection only

Does anyone here use a blind hemming stitch? I decided I would learn to use it today and it turns out it’s perfectly simple. However something is not aligned quite right because instead of holding the fold against the stitch guide on the foot I have to hold it slightly under or the needle fails to catch it. Is there something I should be adjusting or is it slightly off?

Do you need to make your stitch width bigger?

Ah. I will have a go.
Thank you, I thought there was a good chance I was missing something obvious!

I found blindstitch hemming tricky, plus I love handsewing, as if you make the width big enough the stich catching the hem can be quite big and then difficult to press flat.

Life's too short for meh patterns, I wouldn't throw more good fabric after bad@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie

Still putting my shopping basket together. Very drawn to this Vogue (maxi version) as formalwear but honestly, is it basically always going to look like a dressing gown if made up in a jewel-toned velvet?

Still haven't got started - struggling to find time for anything these days since working more hours 😔
Over the weekend though I discovered Cris Woods sews on instagram. No patterns, her garments are zero/minimum waste. Obsessed with the Glow and Waterfall dresses!

@clowniform I love that but can understand your fear re dressing gown vibes, it's why I balk at a lot of the beginner trouser patterns which give me pyjama vibes (although I love pyjamas so could just make them as such I suppose!) Would it be doable to make the gown with short/capped puffed sleeves instead? That might say more evening gown less dressing gown. Otherwise maybe the addition of a fabulous brooch would take it firmly into formal wear territory?

@clowniform Oh dear! Is it that bad?! The shape actually looks okay imo with a denim/leather jacket over, so I might try another one if I can find a fabric I actually like. It will be good for learning more, if nothing else! This one will be a house dress!

Nailed it.
I found with the stitch width just big enough to catch it barely showed on the other side.

I enjoy hand sewing too- and heaven knows I do enough of it as most of my costuming is from pre sewing machine eras - but if I am making a modern garment by the time I get to the end I just want to get it done and wear it rather than settle down and hand sew the hem.

@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie Oh no, I actually personally like it on you (including the length, though camera angles make those tricky to read) but didn't want to impose my tastes which have been roundly dissed can be a bit Marmite on here.

@Brieandbeetroot I was sensible and didn't buy it in the end but that's a very interesting idea and would pull it in a more 30s direction (which goes with my party shoes).

@PickAChew Self-sewn pyjamas are a comfort aren't they? I've realised I need more, and some in winter weights too. Anyone have recommendations for flannel or other fabrics suitable for warmer PJs that wash and wear well?

Robert Kaufman flannel is pretty lush, @clowniform . Smooth and soft. I have a length of it that I occasionally stroke but have yet to decide what to make with it. Not pyjamas because I need them to be stretchy.