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Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome

811 replies

AnnieSnap · 24/05/2023 11:40

Dressmaking has becoming a topic in the ‘No Buy, Low Buy’ thread. In order not to derail that and because it deserves its own thread, I invite anyone who would like to make some of their own clothes or those already doing so to post here about fears, joys, problems, successes etc.

Having binged watched several serious of The Great British Sewing Bee when was laid-up with Covid and because that corresponded with the woman who did my little alterations stopping doing it, I was inspired to get a cheap sewing machine to try to do my own. That was just 16-months-ago and, having no previous experience at all, I quickly fell in love with sewing. I am not usually very patient with tasks (I have great patience with people and animals, but not with much else). Surprisingly, I have endless patience with sewing even when things go wrong 🤷‍♀️ At the beginning, I never dreamed I would be able to make clothes, but it turns out I can. So far, I’ve made dresses, skirts, tops, trousers, a gilet, a couple of things for my husband and even a jacket and a coat 😮

I try to buy ‘deadstock’ fabric when possible in the interests of the environment. It is fabric that is overstock from designers or big companies like Boden, M&S, Nobody’s Child and all the rest, or even fabric they have had produced and have changed their minds about using. I was horrified to discover that up to recently, all of this, tons and tons every year, went into landfill. It still does if it isn’t sold.

Any sewists (as we’re called these days) or potential sewists, what’s your story? And don’t forget the new series of The Great British Sewing Bee starts tonight. BBC1 9pm.

@pigtailsandall @theatrical @Zipps @remuslupinsbiggestgroupie @daisywaisy

OP posts:
Thread gallery
119
RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 24/08/2023 20:49

Thanks @ReviewingTheSituation I've watched that a couple of times today, but I still can't work it out. I'm probably being very dim! This is the pattern.

TheCountessofFitzdotterel · 24/08/2023 20:54

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 24/08/2023 20:21

I just can't work out how to fold them.

What I do is to stick a pin into one of the points and out at the other.

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 24/08/2023 20:56

TheCountessofFitzdotterel · 24/08/2023 20:54

What I do is to stick a pin into one of the points and out at the other.

Sorry, but I don't understand that either!

clowniform · 24/08/2023 20:58

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 24/08/2023 20:21

I just can't work out how to fold them.

Maybe you'll have seen this video but I think it's quite clear:

Mark on the wrong side, fold so that the right sides are touching each other and your markings are still visible on both outsides of the sandwich.

How to Sew a Dart

Sewing darts is a necessary skill for properly fitting your garments. Darts are folded and stitched wedges of fabric that shape a garment over curves. A dart...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLwlwcmAu4c

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 24/08/2023 21:01

Thank you. I watched that one a couple of times too. I think I'm finding it difficult to tell right/wrong sides on the videos, which isn't helping.

clowniform · 24/08/2023 21:02

It's just one fold, so you have a 50:50 chance of getting it right i.e. either you'll fold with right sides together (right) or wrong sides together (wrong). Will be immediately obvious once you've sewn and if wrong, just unpick and do it the other way :)

GoingToBeLessRubbishAtLife · 24/08/2023 21:04

Well this looks like a good thread to follow!

Can any of you recommend any patterns for a plain versatile skirt or a sleeveless dress? I’m not a complete beginner and have followed patterns before, but nothing too difficult.

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 24/08/2023 21:05

clowniform · 24/08/2023 21:02

It's just one fold, so you have a 50:50 chance of getting it right i.e. either you'll fold with right sides together (right) or wrong sides together (wrong). Will be immediately obvious once you've sewn and if wrong, just unpick and do it the other way :)

Edited

lol
Thanks! I'll try again tomorrow. I was tying myself up in knots. I'm rubbish at origami too!

TheCountessofFitzdotterel · 24/08/2023 21:08

clowniform · 24/08/2023 21:02

It's just one fold, so you have a 50:50 chance of getting it right i.e. either you'll fold with right sides together (right) or wrong sides together (wrong). Will be immediately obvious once you've sewn and if wrong, just unpick and do it the other way :)

Edited

That is an excellent approach.
If you make your stitch length a bit longer it will be easier to unpick and darts don’t tend to come undone so it won’t matter.

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 24/08/2023 21:11

Thanks, again! I'll report back.

clowniform · 24/08/2023 21:18

GoingToBeLessRubbishAtLife · 24/08/2023 21:04

Well this looks like a good thread to follow!

Can any of you recommend any patterns for a plain versatile skirt or a sleeveless dress? I’m not a complete beginner and have followed patterns before, but nothing too difficult.

Any style or fit preferences at all? I really like Merchant&Mills but their aesthetic can be divisive.

The foldline has a good search function with filters for patterns.

Home page - The Fold Line

Shop the largest collection of independent sewing patterns in the world. Find the perfect dressmaking pattern for your next making adventure.

https://thefoldline.com/

GoingToBeLessRubbishAtLife · 24/08/2023 21:22

clowniform · 24/08/2023 21:18

Any style or fit preferences at all? I really like Merchant&Mills but their aesthetic can be divisive.

The foldline has a good search function with filters for patterns.

Ah, funny you should mention M&M as I was looking at their Factory Dress and Shepherd Skirt.

I want to have a plain set of clothes for work, a ‘uniform’ if you like, just stuff I can put on with zero thought. Nothing revealing, nothing short, and all to be made with cotton or something, nothing delicate at all.

ReviewingTheSituation · 24/08/2023 22:11

I've made 2 M&M patterns (a bag and a coat) and their instructions were on the scant side. I'm used to the detail of a Closet Core, or Friday Pattern Co (and have done a few TATB), so it was a bit of a shock to the system! The bag would have been quite a challenge if I hadn't got access to a set of sewalong videos. Luckily the coat wasn't that challenging, so there weren't any sticky bits, but if you like lots of detail, then just be aware! (they're nowhere near as scant as StyleArc, mind you...)

GoingToBeLessRubbishAtLife · 24/08/2023 22:17

@ReviewingTheSituation ok thanks. I might avoid them for the time being then.

Floisme · 24/08/2023 22:21

I like Merchant and Mills - done the Eve trousers and a pattern that can be made as both a long sleeved top or dress. (Can't remember the name but can check if you want it.) I thought the instructions were ok but I've never used TATB so I don't know how they compare.

I've also used Makers Atelier a couple of times, although not for skirts or dresses. They're expensive but the patterns are printed on sturdy paper so they stand up to repeated use.

Floisme · 24/08/2023 22:22

Actually I think MA have stopped paper printing so that won't apply any more. Not sure what they charge for PDF patterns.

clowniform · 24/08/2023 22:43

GoingToBeLessRubbishAtLife · 24/08/2023 21:22

Ah, funny you should mention M&M as I was looking at their Factory Dress and Shepherd Skirt.

I want to have a plain set of clothes for work, a ‘uniform’ if you like, just stuff I can put on with zero thought. Nothing revealing, nothing short, and all to be made with cotton or something, nothing delicate at all.

M&M fits that bill perfectly IMO. I'm a pandemic seamstress and have no issue with their instructions although the illustrations can sometimes be hard to decipher on the recycled(?) paper they print on. Nothing that couldn't be resolved by looking up alternative resources for particular steps. They are thoughtful about finishing details so will build in extra allowances for French or lapped seams, or asymmetrical vents, and will give explicit instructions for the seam finishes, so much more explicit than old style Vogue etc.

Other companies to browse: Modern Sewing Co., Paper Theory and Style Arc. Some of Closet Core's older patterns (Pietra, Sienna, Bianca) are also good. Bella Loves Patterns for tailoring (excellent instructions, too)

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 25/08/2023 14:10

The top is done! I used this video for the bust darts in the end. Somehow, it made sense when nothing else had! Really enjoyed my first attempt at bias binding. I've had to shorten it at the shoulder straps and put some tucks in the neckline to make it fit, but pretty pleased for my first attempt - will work with a cardigan or shirt over it, but is too baggy on the armpits to wear alone. Can't manage a pic, but will try and get dp to take one later.

How to Sew a Dart and Feel Va-Va-Voom in your Clothes {VIDEO}

Ok, I’m just gonna say it. Stop. Being. Afraid. Of. Darts. Stop it. These little “inconveniences” to your sewing patterns add shape to your clothes that are simply impossible to achieve without them. They are typically found in patterns made for woven...

https://doitbetteryourself.club/en-gb/blogs/knit-sewing-techniques/how-to-sew-a-dart-and-feel-va-va-voom-in-your-clothes-video

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 25/08/2023 14:32

Pic

Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome
RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 25/08/2023 14:32

Went for visible binding on the neck and hidden on the armholes.

SheSawSeaShore · 25/08/2023 17:39

@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie that’s a lovely top. And the binding looks great!

I’m also trying to make a top but I’m getting confused with the pattern measurements. It lists a bust measurement, but will this be high bust or full bust? I assumed full bust so made a larger size but it was huge everywhere else (luckily made it out of an old sheet!) so maybe I should be going by my high bust measurement? I’ve got a relatively larger bust for my frame and am
really hoping I won’t need to do a full bust adjustment because that looks terrifying!!

TheCountessofFitzdotterel · 25/08/2023 18:42

That’s very nice Remus.

Rosenspants · 25/08/2023 19:11

@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie you are storming ahead! I surprised myself with darts and through no skill or ability on my part, they seemed to be ok and in the right position for an Ogden cami wearable toile. They were also good when I toiled the bodice lining for the Sauvie sundress (sew house seven) that I decided to have a go at. Can’t say the same for the actual dress when I came to make it. It ended up as scrap. Pride before a fall 😆. I’m away for a couple of weeks now but will resume my sewing journey in September with something else!

clowniform · 25/08/2023 20:06

Congrats @RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie Clever placement of the neckline tucks: they actually look intentional and make the shape more interesting. Anyway miles better than my first attempt at a New Look top which was unsalvageably enormous!

@Rosenspants oh no, what happened with the Sauvie? I was going to sew one this year until summer got cancelled.