Skintelligent - skincare myths debunked?

[Mrcpy]

Just heard about this book on the outspoken beauty podcast - they interviewed the author, Dr Natalia Spierings. Here’s the Amazon link for reference: www.amazon.co.uk/Skintelligent-What-really-need-great/dp/1785044060/ref=tmm_pap_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=&sr=

Basically she’s saying that (apart from tretinoin) there’s no benefit to the actives we look for in skincare e.g. collagen (she goes into a rant about this) and vitamin C. Neither penetrate the skin so it’s all marketing hype. There are temporary benefits to some things e.g. acids for exfoliating. But generally the “studies” done by skincare companies are low level marketing studies and we shouldn’t trust their claims.

Has anyone heard of her and what do you think? On the interview she came across as an experienced and genuine medical professional. I’m also medical (not derm) and what she says sounds really sensible, I want to believe it. She doesn’t do paid endorsements on social media. She has a clinic in the NHS and a private one in Dubai.

So what do you think about stripping things back? I’m thinking just cleanse, tret at night, cheap moisturiser, and spf in the daytime?

Yep that’s basically my routine when I haven’t got a fungal skin infection on my face and neck 😭😤Daktarin intensive is my current day & night cream.

That said, I do find dermalogica stuff great but the effects are temporary.

I really like using Vitamin C and can definitely notice a difference in my skin when I use it. I also use tretinoin and again have noticed a difference in my skin texture and brightness and will continue to use.

But I think the problem is people expect miracles from skincare, all this 'holy grail' stuff which is unachievable. Both vitamin C and tretinoin have definitely improved my skin, but I'm not expecting them to make me look 21 again.

I agree there is a lot of 'sciencey' marketing speak out there which sounds impressive but can be misleading, and other ingredients like Peptides etc. really don't have much research behind them. I think of those as 'nice to have, but won't do much'

Like you said suncream, and retinols are a very good basic routine.

I bought her book and found it fascinating- so much of our skin care narrative is driven by skin care companies creating demand without actually any evidence of products being needed or resolving actual skin issues..
I trust her advice based on lack of any commercial gain to be made like most influencers - hirons Hughes etc who just create perceived need for all the new stuff .. vitamin c, peptides, serums etc

I tried her suggestion of Vaseline in face last night rather than usual expensive moisturiser.. skin was not transformed but was also not destroyed and looked hydrated and healthy for 5% of cost?!

am going to follow her advice and see how I go ..

Interesting as I’ve wondered this.

However I really can’t be arsed to read her book. Can anyone give me some bullet points on the basic regime?

Ok - she thinks you really only need following

• oil based cleanser and then only to remove spf and make up - no need for double cleansing .. obvs - water is fine if none of above used

then only 2 she says are essential is spf - higher the better and only for outdoors .. and tretinoin..

she says these are evidence based unlike everything else - debunks collagen, serums, peptides, etc etc

if you have issues with skin, answer is not to go to department store skin care but to a derm .. analogy being you don’t take heart condition to a PT .. very high level summary leaving out a lot of back up science

And use Vaseline as moisturiser

I just use what makes my skin look and feel nice. If it’s part placebo I am honestly fine with that as long as it’s not actively harmful to my skin.

You should watch Dr Dray on YouTube. She's been saying for years that there's litle evidence to support the vit c claim, and most evidence comes from the manufacturers themselves. Do you remember when the NHS, the NHS !, issued a long rebuttal to some claims that no 7 had made about one of their creams. They do have evidence for tretinoin but most other things are supported by anecdotal evidence from consumers. Most things making your skin glow has some exfoliating properties.

Dr Dray also did a video on collagen supplements and really the evidence was inconclusive. She's very scientifically based and is very informative. She's transformed my skin care regime.

I don't use much except tret. Obviously cleanser and moisturiser!
A morning serum as I like the scent and texture but I don't expect it to do anything. My skin has changed dramatically just from tret

Where are you all buying your tretinoin products? Since menopause the texture of my skin has been awful. Would tretinoin help?

What does tret actually do? I've been using it, and like the effect on my face. However my hands have been peeling terribly.

I've definitely noticed a difference using Vitamin C on my skin

I've stopped Tret for a while as the peeling was getting no my nerves.

I use a moisturiser when I feel like my skin needs it and an oily cleanser or micellar water to take off make up.

The skin is an excretory organ, so skincare will only ever have a topical effect. Some topical effects ( acids etc) will give a better surface result than others. Higher strengths will work better than lower ( in most cases).

I have absolutely no problem with people using skin care as part of a self care routine/ because it feels nice/makes us feel/ look better. If you can afford it and you enjoy it, have at it.

I do have a problem with the Hirons et al of the beauty world who are basically just grifting, telling us that we need EVERY SINGLE THING. And their weird fangirls who get themselves into significant debt as a result of being constantly told that this thing, No, THIS THING, is the product you must have. It makes me very angry.

I use skin and me

This has been known for a long time though - remember that Horizon documentary where they said it was all bollocks (apart from a specific No7 serum which you then couldn't get your hands on for months!)

The only active I use now is tretinoin (Retirides from Spain) because that is proven to actually make a difference because it is a medical grade product. Although for skin appearance, the thing that seems to make a difference, at least superficially, is using Weleda Skin food as a night cream - I think it just gives a glow because it's so occlusive and stops the moisture leaving my skin.

Another one for Skin + Me. Excellent service too ... I dropped my vial once meaning it wouldn't dispense any more and was sent a replacement for free. Also after a review was honest that I'd stopped seeing results so they upped my prescription immediately and again sent another free tube.

Referral code if anyone wants to try first month free just pay postage (I receive a credit on my account)

JOANNEP8U9M

I've recently started to get what I think is eczema under one eye and the only thing we seems to be keeping it at bay whilst providing much needed moisture is Skin Food as an evening night cream. Excellent product. I smell like my Nan but it's worth it

So basically a dermatologist with a clinic saying over the counter products do not work, you need to go to a dermatologist.
Sounds like a great marketing pitch to me.

@Fairyliz she is saying that there is little or no evidence to show that OTC creams, peptides, serums etc do not have any effect on skin issues so why buy them - as said above, Hirons et al are pushing more and more products on us as essential when they have little effect on skin conditions and if you want to make an actual difference to things like wrinkles, pigmentation etc , you need prescription products .. so not really marketing more stopping people from wasting money on ineffective products - but at same time, as she said, if you enjoy using them and don't mind the cost, go for it..

Thanks for the recommendation for Skin and me and the referral code

Most of my life I’ve been uninterested in beauty - just washed my face basically - but in the past 1-2 years I’ve become increasingly engaged. Had a bit of Botox. Started tret with Dermatica. Because of the dramatic improvement with tret, I’ve bought into the whole beauty hype and learnt about vitamin C, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and other actives… bought a load of products and subscribed to the liberty beauty box recently 😅 I guess beauty can be fun, but we just need to stay sensible and avoid obsessing over stuff that has no proven benefit.

This has been known for a long time though - remember that Horizon documentary where they said it was all bollocks (apart from a specific No7 serum which you then couldn't get your hands on for months!)

The NHS wrote a piece criticising the science behind Boots claims about that serum. The way they tested and reported the results and skewed the statistics came in for heavy criticism. When the NHS decides to go after a cosmetics company over false reporting, you've got to think No7 were not totally honest.

Tretinoin increases your skin turnover. That's why you see so much regular peeling.

I think it depends a lot on why you're doing skincare and what you hope for. I know for a fact, if I just cleansed and moisturised my skin it would be fine I don't need anything complex. I'm lucky.

However... I have a stressful life and I enjoy spending 10 mins each night treating myself, it's a ritual for me and I find it very soothing.

If I couldn't afford any products other than the basics I would be fine.

I've tried lots of expensive skincare and I agree 100% that many affordable options are excellent.

I don’t think there’s any benefit, for me at least. In any kind of K Beauty 20 step regimen.

Balm cleanser+ tret+heavy night cream = my usual routine.

Don’t wash my face in the morning aside from shower water, sometimes use a Vit C serum and then SPF.

I looked a couple of Dr Dray videos but she looked like she was in the grip of an eating disorder and I found it uncomfortable viewing.