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Understated luxury

62 replies

Tillsforthrills · 01/05/2022 08:18

Following a recent thread about aspirational items that some deemed as déclassé or a cliché, what clothing and bags do you see as luxury and well made but understated?

OP posts:
Mercurial123 · 01/05/2022 08:28

Ryan Roche, & Daughter, Raey for good quality cashmere/wool sweaters.

Postal Co for cotton shirts. Marie Marot are also well made probably not considered luxury but I really like them.

L'atelier Nawbar for interesting jewellery.

Again not really luxury but Mirta for beautiful Italian handbags.

CoraPearl · 01/05/2022 09:09

Aha, I am the one who was called sneery for my use of déclassé…

There’s a saying that money shouts, wealth whispers, so for me, if I do succumb to anything, I prefer the logo to be as small as possible, if it features at all. I just don’t think having such an obvious tell on an item makes it luxurious, it does not, is just shows the wearer has money.

I guess it’s a question of what luxury means to you? For many, it just means expensive whereas I look at it more critically than that - so many luxury brands sell their wares online as well as in stores, and in vast numbers, so question if anything mass produced can ever be truly luxurious. This is why where possible, I prefer to buy from smaller brands who produce items in small numbers.

So, like PP has mentioned, Raey for clothing but it is v. expensive and I tend to buy it when there are offers on, when it’s on sale or buy it from secondhand and/or consignment sites. & Daughter is a good suggestion too but I find they don’t work for my body shape. Other smaller brands I like are The Row and Co (a small LA-based label) and have been lucky to find them reduced on consignment sites/on sale.

With regards to leather goods, well, I discount most of the fashion brands like YSL, Valentino, Dior, Chloe etc who make handbags because they were never specialists in this field. So although that leave a wide playground including very well-known brands such Louis Vuitton, Goyard, Bottega Veneta, Prada, Chanel and of course Hermès, many of these are sold online too, so to my mind, that reduces their desirability too. Factor into Chanel’s rapidly increasing prices and fall in quality, I would discount never buying new bags from them again and start looking at pre-2000 bags or older. But, there are so many other more interesting handbags to buy that are made in smaller numbers, sold on fewer platforms and not in store at all. I recall the first time I saw someone with a Wandler handbag, it really jumped out at me because it was stylish, beautiful leather and understated. I have a huge love of Lutz Morris handbags too for similar reasons. The latter’s ethics are impeccable too. I like Polene too but have yet to buy from them.

Regarding jewellery - here’s an interesting piece from Vogue about how non-branded jewellery is more sought after and considered luxurious than branded/easily recognisable/easily available pieces.

Apologies for the essay but this is a subject close to my heart - I have been involved with luxury goods in one way or another for much of my working life, so do have many opinions about this. Unfortunately, shopping in this way is expensive, so it’s a question of working out where you spend your money. Additionally, I think the whole point of something being truly luxurious is being understated, not screaming with logos, and should be under the zeitgeist, not worn by everyone or appearing on lists of aspirational items to buy as by the time something has hit the mainstream, it really is not luxurious at all. But maybe that’s just me being sneery again.

MargosKaftan · 01/05/2022 09:31

Gucci started as bags /leather goods /suitcase brand, but I do see most of their ranges now as a bit "look i have money!!!" - however that's everything that's got a big label.

Many of the brands that are sneered at for their big branded items, do have more classic plain items as well, eg I saw a friend who was carrying a LV neverful last week, but the plain leather version with only the tiniest logo (that was hidden by her arm when carrying it). It looked very discreet yet obviously expensive. (If those two statements make sense!)

If you look like you've bought something for the quality /cut, not the label, and if others recognise it, that's not the primary purpose of the purchase, it will look classy.

Beefcurtains79 · 01/05/2022 09:34

CoraPearl was it you that said you wouldn’t carry a Hermes bag unless it was Special Order? 🤣

Tillsforthrills · 01/05/2022 09:42

@Mercurial123 @CoraPearl @MargosKaftan

Very informative opinions thank you, going to have a look at some of those understated brands.

OP posts:
CoraPearl · 01/05/2022 10:02

Beefcurtains79 · 01/05/2022 09:34

CoraPearl was it you that said you wouldn’t carry a Hermes bag unless it was Special Order? 🤣

Haha, no, although to be fair, most of the decent bags at Hermes - Birkin, Kelly and Constance are all special orders anyway!

There was a pile-on because some took great offence to some of my posts, mostly because I didn’t think some of the list was aspirational and offered other choiceS. Ironically, some of the items listed in the OP - Carier Love bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra bracelet and Mulberry, were all items the OP stated at the outset she did not like anyway.

Personally, I think buying something because it is thought to be aspirational a little sad, just buy what you like, who cares what others think, particularly online strangers!

OP, sorry for thread derail.

CoraPearl · 01/05/2022 10:04

@MargosKaftan Gucci’s growth (and profits) has massively declined. It will be interesting to see if their creative Director Alessandro Michele has any other tricks up his sleeve other than slapping giant interlocking double Gs over everything.

valerianaofficiana · 01/05/2022 10:08

Lanvin for ballet flats, like wearing socks, love them. Margiela does good tailored jackets, Tods for bags and shoes/boots so so comfortable, whole family wears them.
Bulgari for quirky emerald rings.

Amelion · 01/05/2022 10:22

I think luxury is in the materials and the finishing. It’s about what actually looks and feels great - and what suits you. It’s less about being an ‘it’ brand or item.

I think some of those items on the other thread have better alternatives that are more interesting/better quality - and less recognisable (which for me is a plus but if you want to make sure people know you have money to spend is probably a minus).

For example, I love my Mackintosh trench, it’s much more interesting and less ‘obvious’ than the Burberry trench. I tried on Burberrys and they just felt a bit stuffy on me and not quite right - that’s not to say they don’t look good on other people, but for me they wouldn’t feel luxury if I got something I didn’t feel right in just because it was a ‘desirable’ item. My Mackintosh coat feels much cooler and the cut and shape of it (oversized) suits me.

Like PP I rate &Daughter and other small brands like Genevieve Sweeney, or Ami Amalia for knitwear. Lots of people wouldn’t ‘know’ or ‘recognise’ the brands but the quality and design make them look amazing and I often get compliments on them.

Frogium · 01/05/2022 10:28

You have to define what luxury means to you. If you go beyond clothes as covering your body (i.e. the "I buy all my clothes at primark and use a bag for life to carry stuff") and flattering (i.e. seasonal color analysis and body shape), a lot of it is about you taste and self expression.

The items on that thread were all status symbols. The entry level ubiquitous items from each brand that is the most recognizable for the world and shout that "I have made it, I have some disposable income and have joined the club and want everyone to know it".

A lof of fashion brands are much more that their most recognizable items though. Gucci does great sharp cuts, LV (that is always dissed on MN) has a lot of other designs and great leather beyond the monogram, but unfortunately people don't even know these designs so the brand is known only by the most ubiquitous items. Chanel is going that way too with logo covered everything. If it is understated and not logo covered, why would people put it on insta??

Do you want to collect? Show the world you have money? wear fancy dresses? Have clothes that are really well cut? Feel the softest fabrics on your skin? In the end it's down to your goals
If you love pattern design - you would be interested in leonard, or pucci, or etro
If you are into soft fabrics loro piana
If fancy cuts MHW, roland mouret (RIP) etc
If you are a rapper then maybe off white

And there are thousands more designers out there each with their own ethos and ideas

MarshaBradyo · 01/05/2022 10:30

I tend to think Loro Piana and Celine

But obviously very expensive. It would be too classic overall for me and Isabel Marant in mix would suit better

CatHerderGeneral · 01/05/2022 11:00

As I said on the other thread, I think the ultimate luxury is having things made just for you.
Beautiful, one of a kind pieces designed to your requirement and tailored exactly to you in natural fabrics, and bespoke jeweller from skilled craftspeople. That to me is true luxury.

For specific brands, I do love Oscha scarves, I had a few of their baby wraps when the DC were small, and the quality is unbeatable. They are not particularly expensive, relatively speaking either.
Even after years of abuse and small person bodily fluids, regular washing and tumble drying, they still look like new. They are ethically handwoven in Scotland in small batches, and the fabrics are stunning. The Middle Earth LOTR/Hobbit inspired ones are stunning.

www.oschaslings.com/shop/accessories/shawls

MsMonroeSpeaking · 01/05/2022 11:06

CatHerderGeneral · 01/05/2022 11:00

As I said on the other thread, I think the ultimate luxury is having things made just for you.
Beautiful, one of a kind pieces designed to your requirement and tailored exactly to you in natural fabrics, and bespoke jeweller from skilled craftspeople. That to me is true luxury.

For specific brands, I do love Oscha scarves, I had a few of their baby wraps when the DC were small, and the quality is unbeatable. They are not particularly expensive, relatively speaking either.
Even after years of abuse and small person bodily fluids, regular washing and tumble drying, they still look like new. They are ethically handwoven in Scotland in small batches, and the fabrics are stunning. The Middle Earth LOTR/Hobbit inspired ones are stunning.

www.oschaslings.com/shop/accessories/shawls

I agree with this.

If I were rich, I wouldnt bother with chasing the latest designer bag or name brand stuff. I'd have a personal tailor/shoer maker / bag designer to make lovely, bespoke pieces in gorgeous luxurious fabrics... just for me.

CoraPearl · 01/05/2022 11:17

MarshaBradyo · 01/05/2022 10:30

I tend to think Loro Piana and Celine

But obviously very expensive. It would be too classic overall for me and Isabel Marant in mix would suit better

I almost added Loro Piana to my initial post, can’t recall now why I did not, maybe early morning brain?!

As for Celine, under Phoebe Philo, absolutely, but now Hedi Slimane has his unimaginative hands on it, embraced taking it online and expanded its perfumes and menswear, no, not at all.

MarshaBradyo · 01/05/2022 11:27

Cora yes you have a point

I haven’t bought anything since they lost the accent (not that I bought much more than the bags)

whiteorchids44 · 01/05/2022 11:48

Celine (the Phoebe Philo era), The Row, Gabriela Hearst and Hermès.

KimikosNightmare · 01/05/2022 12:59

and of course Hermès, many of these are sold online too, so to my mind, that reduces their desirability too

Reay and & Daughter, of whom you approve, are sold online. I don't think & Daughter is sold other than online.

KimikosNightmare · 01/05/2022 13:02

I like Edina Ronay. I have a few dresses that were bought off the peg and others that were made to measure after being measured by Edina in her house in London.

www.edinaronay.com/made-to-measure.html#/

KimikosNightmare · 01/05/2022 13:25

CoraPearl · 01/05/2022 10:02

Haha, no, although to be fair, most of the decent bags at Hermes - Birkin, Kelly and Constance are all special orders anyway!

There was a pile-on because some took great offence to some of my posts, mostly because I didn’t think some of the list was aspirational and offered other choiceS. Ironically, some of the items listed in the OP - Carier Love bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra bracelet and Mulberry, were all items the OP stated at the outset she did not like anyway.

Personally, I think buying something because it is thought to be aspirational a little sad, just buy what you like, who cares what others think, particularly online strangers!

OP, sorry for thread derail.

All of the items you approve of are also aspirational. It's really odd you can't see that. For some one who doesn't think it matters what online strangers think you seem to be expending a lot of time telling online strangers what you think.

Of the items in the original list the only ones I have or want were the Hermès scarves, which are beautiful and long lasting. Of the expensive watches I wouldn't even notice anyone wearing them, far less recognise the brands.

CoraPearl · 01/05/2022 21:46

KimikosNightmare · 01/05/2022 13:25

All of the items you approve of are also aspirational. It's really odd you can't see that. For some one who doesn't think it matters what online strangers think you seem to be expending a lot of time telling online strangers what you think.

Of the items in the original list the only ones I have or want were the Hermès scarves, which are beautiful and long lasting. Of the expensive watches I wouldn't even notice anyone wearing them, far less recognise the brands.

I never said my items weren't. I was simply commenting on the OP’s original list in that particular thread. This is a different thread, let’s move on, eh? Thanks.

CoraPearl · 01/05/2022 21:48

KimikosNightmare · 01/05/2022 13:02

I like Edina Ronay. I have a few dresses that were bought off the peg and others that were made to measure after being measured by Edina in her house in London.

www.edinaronay.com/made-to-measure.html#/

It is comforting to learn Edina Ronny is still making clothes. I wore a lot of her things in the 90s and have fond memories of them.

CoraPearl · 01/05/2022 22:01

KimikosNightmare · 01/05/2022 12:59

and of course Hermès, many of these are sold online too, so to my mind, that reduces their desirability too

Reay and & Daughter, of whom you approve, are sold online. I don't think & Daughter is sold other than online.

There’s selling online, and selling online.

& Daughter only sells through their own website. Raey is Matchesfashion’s own label, predominantly sold through their website although for a time, sold in a dedicated Raey store. Both have limited production runs, and a minimal online presence. Neither produce items in the hundreds or thousands like the larger luxury brands who have multiple outlets of selling online be it their own website or through multi brand e-tailers and departments stores websites.

Lower number of items available makes something more desirable than something that is produced in large numbers. Am hugely surprised you don’t understand this but I suspect you do and that you’re just picking.

SalsaLove · 01/05/2022 22:12

I stick to basics and add luxury handbags and shoes. Basics are basics from Lands End and Seasalt. Handbags from Aspiga and White Company. Although White Company handbags don’t add to an outfit.

KimikosNightmare · 01/05/2022 22:41

CoraPearl · 01/05/2022 22:01

There’s selling online, and selling online.

& Daughter only sells through their own website. Raey is Matchesfashion’s own label, predominantly sold through their website although for a time, sold in a dedicated Raey store. Both have limited production runs, and a minimal online presence. Neither produce items in the hundreds or thousands like the larger luxury brands who have multiple outlets of selling online be it their own website or through multi brand e-tailers and departments stores websites.

Lower number of items available makes something more desirable than something that is produced in large numbers. Am hugely surprised you don’t understand this but I suspect you do and that you’re just picking.

Oh please do continue educating me. Your pearls of wisdom are priceless.

windmill26 · 01/05/2022 23:15

Agnona , Loro Piana , Connolly , The Row , James Perse , Bamford , Valextra , Smythson , Goyard.