➿ Fantastic Haircare: Making Sense and Science of the Curly Girl Method

[botemp]

Offshoot from the Fantastic Skincare threads to document the trials and tribulations in order to make sense and science of the curly girl method. We don't necessarily follow it to the letter and are even critical of it in places. Nor are we especially knowledgeable at this point but we're learning as we go. Feel free to join in (especially if you have superior knowledge) as we attempt to approach this with an interest in ingredients and try to not buy everything that promises us magical things…

Useful blogs:

Curly Cailín
Science-y Hair Blog

Quirky be warned, they are not cheap! For our large-ish 4 bed detached it was around £1500 including VAT and fitting and that was 3 years ago. We buy the salt blocks in bulk and store them in the garage. We get through them pretty quickly (me, DH and 17 and 15 yo DSs). Whomever said teenage boys are averse to showers/baths has not met my boys! Granted we are getting through them quicker than usual because of the current issues with plumbing.

Also, we were going to leave the utility room tap unsoftened . I can't remember the details now but I think it's potassium that you actually want in your water. But there was a mix up and the fitter connected that tap too. But actually we drink plenty of water from outside the house in restaurants and other people's houses etc (not atm obvs) so I'm not overly worried.

Oh, and we do have a fridge with unsoftened water/ice but I'm too tight to replace the filter at the moment so we don't use that.

Thanks Pupsie, the guy giving us a quote fitted our boiler last year. I think it will have to go in our covered side passage, but it wouldn't be for a while, as it's full of stuff we need to get rid of, as we've been having other stuff done to the house.

I've never heard of that, bo, but when I started CGM it was leave in conditioner + gel. Which I still do, tbh. I've added those shampoos to my wishlist on amazon for when I've finished the Aveda Blue Malva.

I find the silver hair groups on fb helpful, but a lot of posters are from the US, so not always the same hair products are available. It's good to know European brands too.

Got my hair chopped yesterday, the layers are much shorter than expected, I used a different hairdresser and I think they struggled to grasp just how much my hair shrinks upwards when wet. Slightly concerned how it's going to look when washed and styled

There are styling techniques that sort of mitigate shrinkage, Out. IME prayer hands and a half hearted scrunch at the end (instead of every step) means less spring upwards. Also heavier gels by which I don't mean hard hold but thicker consistency as they tend to weigh down, but that can work for and against you.

I really feel the need of a haircut now, just to sort out the front layers but I kind of feel it will disrupt my ability to compare all my experiments 🤣the smattering of lockdown induced grey hairs at my temples seem to be falling out now so I can put off any thoughts of colour for now, thankfully. Although I secretly suspect all the big wavy hair influencers dye their hair blonde because it makes curl definition look better on camera and frizz is less noticeable. I was blonde as a young child, maybe I should reconsider 🙈

Today's experiment was with the three gels (am currently plopping although I think it wasn't needed as this is probably the most effective sealant ever so no stray water to be found). I used BC clump cream as LIC, then spiralicious, bounce curl gel creme and then Aveda confixor. Initial impression was promising, you only scrunch after the last layer is in and I got really impressive clumps, hopefully they'll dry nicely. Suspect it'll take forever...

I forgot to mention smasters technique, that used to be good for me
So when your hair is partially dry and starting to cast, wet hands and apply more product. It effectively partially breaks the cast and lets you cover any missed spots plus can speed up drying time as you're bringing the wet inner back to the outer. If that makes sense! That's often what I use lube for

I'm still persisting in sticking fingers in ears and going lalalalala at the idea of lube in my hair... When all else fails and all that. I've tried adding wet hands and gel halfway through but it never really worked for me.

Forgot to mention the new Lockenbox subscriptions are now open for purchase. I didn't realise it wasn't a blind buy, this month is 4 flora & curl products with a value of over €80 and you pay around €40 for the subscription and shipping within the EU. Not that interested in the brand but I like the idea that you at least know what you're buying rather than it being a surprise.

That's a decent deal! I have all the floral and curl ones
I'm hoping my curlee box arrives soon, I'm avoiding stalking what might be in it

I've never come across the brand before, I know you mentioned it in a wash day routine, but what's special about it?

It's all CG safe, I think it's just popular mostly because influencers and scents and new brand
It's not worth the price for me personally but I imagine it's one of those where your hair could really like it
I kind of see brands like that, when they offer a set it's more aimed at people who have been using stuff that's wrong for their hair so anything is an improvement - if that makes sense!!
Whereas for me the gel is nice but not enough hold, the conditioner has great slip but I need more protein etc etc

Will you post a picture later Bo?

I think Curly Cailin mentioned Floral and Curls in her IGTV curl clinic yesterday. Just a shout out at the end about brands owned by POC.

I do allow myself a little wry smile when people say they won't colour their hair. Yeah, I used to think that. They need to wait until their greys start coming through... I didn't get many until mid 40s and my mum (mid 70s) is still only about 70% grey. But yeah, wait and see .

Wash day yesterday and I went back to basics and it feels better for it. But it so badly needs a cut.

I must say I find it staggering at how may brands are competing for the piece of the pie in the CGM, there must be so much money in it as products are not cheap and you're encouraged to use loads of product.

I've noticed a lot of products are sold out too Bo. I think lockdown has ppl trying it. That's what happened to me. Perfect opportunity to just experiment and take a break from the blow drying and see what's there.

Pupsie, I'm not saying I never will, I definitely will, I've been so used to pale skin dark hair for forever and that contrast works for me. I don't think I'd look good with grey hair. Some people can pull it off with great effect others not so much. I'm pretty sure I belong to the latter but I'd like to delay the constant cycle of touch ups for as long as I can. My mother and grandmother (died in her late 70s) also never went fully grey and that salt and pepper look tends to look dusty and frizzy even when it's not.

Tbh the you're a disgrace to womanhood for not embracing your grey hair are just as annoying to me as the ones who think you're some haggard old witch whose given up if you're not dyeing your hair.

Yeah I had an overview from one of the shops about shipping lead times from the CG brands. I'll look it up again.

This is from end of May and the shop only carries certain brands, obvs. It's quite annoying as I quite like the kinky curly knot today as a conditioner and my sample is almost finished and it's not to be found anywhere.

Sorry Bo that wasn't directed at you or anyone else here. Just a general observation.

No worries Pupsie, I didn't read it as such.

Thanks bo washing it shortly when my ancient wood fired boiler gets going will try prayer hands and less aggressive squishing. It's not an awful cut just a bit choppier than expected with the back cut shorter than the front whereas usually my layers are just a few around the front with the back left slightly longer

As someone who has gone silver/grey, I do miss my contrast of pale skin and dark hair and need to take that into account with colours etc. that I wear. I started going grey at 16 and colouring my hair at about that time too. I hadn't initially meant to transition, but the very dark dye started to look too harsh, so I went mid-brown. That used to fade to orangey and so I went lighter. The blonde didn't really feel like me and it was not great on my hair or scalp, even with olaplex, so I started to grow it out. I would say the silver groups I'm on are very much do what's right for you, though I believe there are some who feel you are not being your authentic self if you enhance your colour or the transition process as it's not "natural". I'm not on those.

Nice curls, Pupsie. Lots of movement.

Hair wash time for me! If anyone wants to try a protein conditioner without spending £££, the XHC Poundland/b&m/savers one is good

I actually thought I was going to start going lighter but I'm not going to. Not ready yet.

I had people to see and places to go yesterday so didn't take many pictures, and the ones I did have a weird white haze over them, so I've adjusted lighting somewhat (I'm not that orange ). The three gel method did work well, still some frizz but I think with practice and tweaking or lube that could be minimised further but it wasn't enough to bother me anyhow. Got some really good shine with it as well.

Lots of messages here!!

Perhaps you should try the Olaplex no 3 Quirky. I have a lot less frizz since I used it - barely any now. It's a bit pricey but a little really does go a long way. Let me know how you with the Briogeo.

Client/queen - have you tried the Biolage conditioner? It is so moisturising that you only need very little and it de-tangles everything. I use it on my little one who has long curly hair that gets into a right mess and the Biolage works really well. Thank you for the tip re protein conditioner - I would love a cheap one but we don't have Poundland in Greece!!

Bo - my cousin uses the 123 method but doesn't use specific gels in that way. Although I believe there are certain combinations of gels which work together. Info on 123 method in case you've not read this.

I was also wondering if curly girls are all going au natural in the lockdown as some things I wanted were sold out too.

Nice curls Bo. I really like the overall look and cut in the second photo too.

I have decided that I would rather focus on overall health of my hair and assess the protein-moisture balance for now so have decided to cut back on my routine. Will keep it very basic and use the exact same products for a while. All this chopping and changing of products and styling techniques is making it harder for me to figure out what is going on with my hair (and would rather sort that first). Saying that, since the beginning when I started taking proper care of my hair and regular deep conditioning and rice treatments, it now has less frizz, is shinier and the curls towards the bottom and back are clumping/forming better and not so straggly.

Yeah, I'm thinking I need to stop looking so close up at my curls an assess more from a bit of distance rather than selfies as I'll probably drive myself mad with a quest for an absolutely frizz free result. It's a bit odd as it's only since recently I'm out and about more again and confronted with different reflections of myself (largest mirror we have at home doesn't allow for a lot of room to step backwards) that I realise my own scrutiny. I think the shine is a good barometer for me of hair health.

Yes, thanks Sophie, I had found that honest Liz post (the link doesn't work though for some reason) but little else. I'm on the lookout for a gel with protein but glycerin free, can only find the curls blueberry bliss so far but it's apparently quite drying with continued use. In my mind it also made more sense to end with glycerin and protein free as opposed to start so I can play around with it. I need to check the ouidad climate control, I was interested in that anyhow but not sure if it contains protein or not, I think it is glycerin free though.

WRT brands being out of stock, I think we are underestimating over here how much of an impact Covid19 has had over in the US. It's really halted industry and supply chains and they're not as set up for working from home as we seem to be here. Part of me also hopes that the reason some of the smaller brands don't offer stock at the moment is simply for shutting down their business for the sake of all their employees where lots of big corporations have continued by having management wfh and the lowly skilled workers assuming all the risk in warehouses with little or no safety measures.

Speaking of company ethics, while I do appreciate the signalling of black owned businesses atm, I do think it's a bit like cruelty free, you need to put in a bit of leg work otherwise it is just virtue signalling. The mere label doesn't say much, you need to do a bit more due diligence, for example Briogeo is black owned but going by the Estée Laundry bullying allegations exposé (it's still there in their bullying stories, I think it's three parts) it's a terrible place to work for anyone but especially BIPOC. As much as I can, I'll buy from small independent owned who don't seem to be angling for big money takeover (Briogeo is an example of that but Bounce Curl probably is too) but at the end of the day it does have to work well for my hair, but those with a proven track record of bad behaviour like Briogeo I'll refuse to buy or try.

Sophie I'm doing the same. I have about 4 gels now. Tend to use the same shampoo and conditioner though. But also varying plopping and whether I diffuse and for how long. Did consider a rice water rinse yesterday (not the Curly Cailin modified gloop one). But then I just thought STOP. I'm going to focus on what you're focussing on. TBH I am hoping the thing that will make the biggest difference is a cut. Three weeks to go.

Also, my hair defo not getting as greasy/itchy so soon. Am on day 3 and couple quite happily leave another day (in a bun) but I'm going for a run plus I have my team meet on a Monday and it's easy to have say 2 hair for it).