➿ Fantastic Haircare: Making Sense and Science of the Curly Girl Method

[botemp]

Offshoot from the Fantastic Skincare threads to document the trials and tribulations in order to make sense and science of the curly girl method. We don't necessarily follow it to the letter and are even critical of it in places. Nor are we especially knowledgeable at this point but we're learning as we go. Feel free to join in (especially if you have superior knowledge) as we attempt to approach this with an interest in ingredients and try to not buy everything that promises us magical things…

Useful blogs:

Curly Cailín
Science-y Hair Blog

It needs to say hydrolyzed before X protein, just protein isn't necessarily a 'protein'. So oat flour wouldn't count I think, unless it's hydrolyzed oat flour? Jojoba technically isn't an oil, it's a wax, but it is considered a protein when hydrolyzed, it's a larger molecular weight so will act like a film former.

And then there's collagen, keratin, peptides, and amino acids.

Then there's some botanical extracts that can act like protein, that's aloe, flaxseed, soy, and a few others

Wow. Thanks Bo.

Feeling slightly more satisfied now my hair is fully dried usually this section at the front wont hold a wave/curl at all

Have a look on the science blog Pupsie. It breaks all the proteins down according to their size so you can see how well they will be absorbed and explains where they should appear in ingredient lists. Ingecurls (I think it was her) also has some info on her IG page about what proteins do what (eg keratin reduces frizz and gives a fuller appearance to hair).

There is also cocodimomium something something and Lauryldimonium ..... which are also proteins but I've not seen them in any of the ingredient lists I've been looking at.

Quite happy with today's wash day so far (although not fully dry yet). Curls looking better and less frizz so all confirming that my hair needs protein.

Your DS made some interesting points Pupsie. and thanks for all that background Bo. I read a book recently where that aspect of hair really featured. Americanah by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie. Highly recommend. Fantastic book!

You have a nice wave to your hair Outtheforest and it looks very smooth and frizz free.

Will do Sophie. It's on my list. I was hoping to start gently (science is not my strong point nor am I particularly interested in understanding in great depth for the same of it, so I'll think about how best to record and use the information). Don't mind doing a few hours of research here and there. I'll take a look this coming week.

@MadameButterface it's Trepadora all the way for me, nothing else works as well on my hair. I don't work for them either, I'm a curly and my routine was significantly enhanced when I bought the Trepadora towel recently. I was amazed at the difference between using a tee shirt and a proper curly hair towel.

Okay so I'm on the Science-y blog. Not as scary as it sounds/I'd talked myself into.

Pupsie, yes, the three articles on the scienc-y blog plus the other blog I linked (I have it saved somewhere if it's not easily found again, just ask) about botanical extracts that have similar properties make a comprehensive read altogether.

I'll have a look for that book, Sophie, she's the same author of 'We Should All Be Feminists', isn't she?

I'm quite pleased with today's results as well. My hair is still struggling somewhat to clump together, weirdly there's a separation between the bottom layer that has clumped well and the top which is an assortment of thinner waves. The definition is much improved which I credit to the protein treatment and it's no longer as dry so the Jessicurl deep conditioner did a good job for this troubleshooting. Next routine I'll focus on humectants for hydration instead of the occlusive heavy approach I took this time in hopes to make clumping easier again and hopefully it'll be relatively well balanced by then.

I watched these two videos on the most 'authentic' rice water rinse. I'm beginning to believe the fermented stuff is not too far off a Japanese first treatment essence (which my skin really likes). I may try it at some point in the future, the way they wash the rice is exactly how my grandmother taught me and faint memories started coming back to me. She used to mix it with ashes from the fireplace and sprayed the rose bushes with it (they always grew beautifully) and I do vaguely remember something about adding black tea now for hair and a quick Google tells me that's for preventing hair loss and discouraging grey hairs so I may be onto something 🧐 bit too scared to jump on protein treatments so soon again so I'll wait a few weeks if not months before trying it. I may do just the black tea rinse though.

I use a brush - a denman with a couple of rows removed. Used to de tangle while conditioner is on (I use fingers first) and then I brush my leave in through

Yes she is Bo. Have you read that one? She also wrote Half of a Yellow sun (not read that either but keep meaning to). I've got a whole load of books lined up to read and not making much progress.

Thanks for vitamin C answer on the other thread.

It's been a while, it's very short though. She has a great way with words though.

I'm the same with a long list of saved titles but I don't find I have the concentration for anything that requires active attention during these times.

I'm the same with the bottom layers vs the top layers Bo. I only really used to run a straightening iron through the top layer, not all of it, just to try to reduce the volume a bit. I guess that's not helped. You've got some lovely curls going on there!

I'll look for that blog post later too. Thanks.

Sophie I'm the same re the reading, or should I say listening as I tend to use audible. Since lockdown I've really struggled to get into any books at all. I think I've managed 3 but given up on about 6!

Found the other blog link thanks Bo.

Now wondering about hairdryers and diffusers. I am already stressing about hair wash in the morning and getting it dry enough to SOTC before my team meeting at noon. So far I don't think I've had a completely dry-haired SOTC. But diffusing for an hour?!

My Parlux and collapsible diffuser aren't idea, especially the latter. Should have listened to my husband's incantation of "buy smart, buy once".

I've read a couple of those Reddit threads. What do people here use or got their eyes on?

Also wondering about a curl cream, although as said before I sort of jumped straight in so I don't know if I'd benefit one. Trying to avoid too many products. Certainly until it's had a cut, and colour.

Maybe we are using all far too much. I follow among others Amanda Bicket and she did an experiment with only using water for 3 weeks. Not sure what witchcraft that is but her hair is amazing (with and without product)

Here's my wash day for tonight

Went for a run this morning and didn't wash my hair until 10.30 so doing my call without video.

One think I'm noticing is my cast doesn't really set in the underneath layers. Hair still damp, top layers crunchy, underneath layers soft. I guess this is an application issue.

Today. Feels nice and clean and soft. Frizz still an issue.

Morning,

re hairdryers Pupsie, I don't want to spend a fortune as I know I am too lazy/short of time to use it that much (although have the best intentions). On that basis I ruled out the Dyson. I considered the GHD Air but apparently its quite heavy. I want a big diffuser. Been looking at Diva which are reasonably priced and have large diffusers (think Curly Cailin has a Diva IIRC). Parlux also ruled out (but that's a long story!).

Your hair looks nice in the photos. Some lovely waves coming out.

I think my hair would look awful without product Vengeancer!!

Client - do you use all those styling products in one wash routine? Also have you ever tried Rockin Ringlets (Jessicurl)?

I had my hair cut on Monday. She came to the house and spent a long time examining my hair dry and the curls and we discussed a lot about what I didn't like as well as my current (disastrous) colour situation. She was cutting for a long time (wet cut) and so I had the impression she had cut loads off but there was actually very little hair when I looked at the floor. She has evened up the ends at the back and refreshed the overall shape. It was looking lovely yesterday (and felt more healthy) but then I went for a run and was reluctant to wash it so soon (as felt this would add to my over-moisturised situation) so it went a bit frizzy from the sweat (lovely....) and now I'm wearing it tied up in a pineapple. It looks fine actually. I do miss short hair in that respect as it was sooo easy with all the exercise I do.

She will come and do my colour soon and combine this with Olaplex.

I was looking at the Diva too Sophie. I need to research which model. Yes Curly Caitlin has one too.

Would love to see a photo of your hair post cut. When you say even the ends up do you mean it's more blunt along the bottom? Also, she cut it wet and combed it through first? Assuming that if she came to yours she used your products and not a regular towel? And did she leave it to dry naturally?

Colour + Opalex sounds interesting.

Sorry for all the questions?

I was looking at all the models of diva Pupsie and made notes on them all. I don't think I need a top of the range because I won't be using it to straighten my hair or anything like that. Just need a variety of heat settings (think most divas had 4), different speeds and that ionic and ceramic technology (which some divas have and some not - well according to description on website. A friend thinks ionic and ceramic is standard is most decent hairdryers now).

Yes hairdresser used all my own products. I left it to air dry and she had been here for ages and I needed to pick up a DC from sports. We used my DC towel. I will try to send a photo but can't now. She didn't make it a blunt cut at the bottom - she kind of rounded/pointed it (not sure how to describe) but cut off the length too to get rid of the straggly ends.

• DC towel is deva curl towel (not one of DC's towels )

And it should have read "as she had been here for ages.

I used the Giovanni gel today and I think it's better than the Boucleme for me. I also diffused for about 20 minutes then left to air-dry which only took a couple of hours. With my tiny diffuser. I definitely think I will invest in a big diffuser, and probably a hairdryer.

Got some proper ringlets going on. I wondered about breaking a large one up but I'm a bit fearful of too much touching and intervention when dry (don't touch after styling).Is this based on anything?

That looks very good Pupsie, very defined can hardly spot any frizz. Colour looks lovely too. Does the Giovanni contain protein?

I'm supposed to wash my hair today but it's been busy, been around town for various reasons and I've just forgotten how much time that sucks up. I think I'll just do it tomorrow as I can't be motivated to do it. Did drop by Tkmaxx this morning as I was nearby in the hopes they still had some Diva hairdryers but no luck so now I'm back to trying to decide between the 5000 and 7000.

Thank you Bo. There is a bit of frizz, not showing up very well.

I don't think the gel has protein but I'm including the INCI below just in case (still getting my head around this):

Aqua (Purified Water)‚ VP/NA Copolymer‚ Hydroxyethylcellulose‚ Tocopherol (Vitamin E)‚ Citric Acid‚ Phenoxyethanol‚ Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Seed Extract‚ Fragrance (Includes Essentials Oils)‚ Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice‚ Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil‚ Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract Betula Alba Extract‚ Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Extract‚ Achillea Millefolium Extract‚ Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract‚ Equisetum Arvense Extract‚ Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Extract‚ Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract‚ Salvia Sclarea (Clary) Extract‚ Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Extract‚ Tussilago Farfara (Coltsfoot) Flower Extract‚ Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Extract.

I too am trying to decide which Diva hairdryer to get. I have just ordered the XXL diffuser. I will see if that fits my Parlux first. Be interested to know what you decide though.

Sallie I think I know the style of cut you mean. Is it like powerdomi's? I feel like hair has to be quite long to have that and I'm not sure mine is yet.