I used to get the cystic spots too. I would have said my forehead and cheeks were dry and my chin and jawline oily, but looking back I don't think that's right, I think all my skin was dry and dehydrated. I wasn't cleansing throughly enough at night and I was using washes that were too harsh, scrubs that were too harsh and those exfoliating gloves in the shower.
Changed to Liz Earle rose and geranium (I think) hot cloth cleanser about 18 months ago (was a Christmas present) and the moisturizer that came with it.
Also started using the ordinary retinoid 2%, rosehip oil and an acid from Decleor. My skin got clear nearly immediately and I stopped getting the cystic acne. When the Liz Earle ran out I got the green bottle of it but that was too drying and my face was stinging and uncomfortable so I switched to la roche-posay toleriane. I've changed to cerave hydrating now as it's a bit cheaper and it seems fine so far, though it's possibly slightly more drying. On the other hand, you just wash it off with water which I think is more gentle than a flannel and definitely more gentle than a muslin cloth. I also stopped using the Decleor acid as I think it was too harsh too. I switched to the ordinary lactic acid 10% as it's supposed to be hydrating. I am not sure it was doing much for my face though it probably was it's just that it was hard to tell because I was doing ok with my skin anyway. I used the last bit on my legs and it made my legs really soft and cleared any little bumps and red marks. I was surprised at how effective it was! I'm trying the Paula's choice skin perfecting lotion now as I still have blackheads on my chin and I think the salicylic acid will be better at clearing them than lactic as salicylic dissolves oil. Also I don't think it makes your skin as sensitive to the sun as the other acids so it's good for the summer. I still wear spf 50 every day.
I tried the vichy mineral 89 serum but I didn't think it was doing anything at all. I tried the ordinary natural moisturising factors moisturiser but I didn't think much of that - I might give it another go as my skin isn't quite as dry or dehydrated now. I use CeraVe now (but not the one with the SPF) and I think it's great. It has niacinamide in it which i think is good for oil control and balance and blemishes. I also use the pyunkang yul essence and apply 2-3 layers of that after cleansing, and it makes my face feel so soft and comfortable, and it looks plumped up.
I tried the ordinary vitamin c 23% (to help with scarring and sagging as I'm in my 40s) and it stung like mad. I use the Garden of Wisdom Vitamin C now every second night and it's soooooo hydrating/moisturising I don't know which, but my skin looks great the morning after. Fine lines nearly disappear.
I did lots and lots and lots of reading about skin care. The skin care threads and documents on here are absolutely brilliant. The Paula's Choice website is also very good.
I got one spot a few months ago and my DM's partner said he could tell I was really stressed out as my skin is normally so clear.
Stripping your skin of its natural oils is not good.
It's also hard to tell what kind of skin you really have unless you read up on everything and stop using harsh products and active ingredients for a while. If you're using anything to control your skin than its hard to tell what it's really like on its own. I thought mine was combination veering towards oily because of the amount of spots and blackheads I had, and I didn't think I needed much moisturiser, whereas now I think my poor skin was just producing oil to help itself. It's really quite dry and treating it as dry skin has made a huge difference.
I have just started using garden of wisdom retinol very very slowly, as I'm trying to make my forehead wrinkles less noticeable. They are less noticeable anyway with the gentle cleansing, hydrating, acid and vitamin c (I've had people saying I don't look as stressed). But I know my skin better and I'll know if the retinol is too much for it.
Squalane oil is a good oil to use for dehydrated skin, it's the closest thing to your skin's natural oil apparently. Maybe I should get a bottle myself.