🐌 Fantastic Skincare: Happy Snail Year, Bring Spoons!

[botemp]

Thread 1 Thread 2 Thread 3 Thread 4 Thread 5 Thread 6 Thread 7 Thread 8 Thread 9 Thread 10

I am very slowly working on consolidating the gathered information from previous threads into easier to read formats but it’s slow going. In order to make use of the below form and join in I would suggest reading thread 1 and at the very least the following info sheets (provided they apply to you):

Where to Start

Basics of an Actives Routine

Skin Types vs. Skin Conditions Info Sheet

Anti-Ageing Info sheet

Adult Acne Info Sheet

NEWish since previous threads:

Understanding Which Sunscreen(s) to Buy

Do I Really Need to Wear Sunscreen Every Single Day of the Year?

A Damaged Skin Barrier - Now What?

For those who are taking a peek and wondering what this all about, we mostly discuss a bit of advanced skincare here with a perspective of seeking out the right ingredients (rather than the latest new shiny product and all its empty promises) for our particular skin needs. Distinguishing the acid toners from the actives whilst avoiding the truly unimpressive and harmful ingredients with a hope to achieve a bit of anti-ageing, alleviate irritation and sensitivities with some idle chat in between. Newcomers are always welcome but please note the following:

Questions and asking for help on this thread is encouraged, however, we can’t give you a specific routine to follow and hope it works out for the best. There are no overnight miracles in skincare whether it be in the form of products or techniques. It’s about perseverance, understanding your skin, assessing its needs and responding to that in a diligent manner.

These threads were created to help those who want to learn for themselves. We’re a group of interested and invested skincare nuts happy to offer tea and sympathy and dole out advice. Everyone’s journey with skincare is different, what is universal and binds us is that through actually learning about the different active ingredients it helps us get to know our skin and help us adapt as it will change many times throughout our lives - with seasons, hormonal changes, ageing, genetics etc. It's in everyone's best interests to get to know their skin and to keep reviewing those changes with the confidence that comes from the gathered knowledge here. We really encourage you to spend the time reading through previous threads and linked info sheets that the many contributors have taken the trouble to share.

By no means are we experts, we're only a bunch of amateurs that can only respond by suggesting what we would do in your place, for any severe conditions please seek out professional help.

Ahem, and finally a little note on spending. I'm well aware these threads cause many to reach for their wallets and spend with wild abandon. There can sometimes be a bit of a frenzy surrounding the excitement around a newly discovered product or on the back of great improvements when someone reports back. This is all great, it doesn't however, mean everything that's a sudden miracle for one will be it for you. Usually, it's a light bulb moment for connecting the right skincare ingredient with an individual experiencing a specific problem. Take your time to mull over decisions and question whether it's right for you too. Skincare is highly individual, it's a slow game that should cost mostly in patience, input, education, and perseverance. Please don't make it cost you financially needlessly.

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JANUARY 2018: Thread 11! we're getting old. A recap of The Snailies categories for those still meaning to get round to them:

🐌🐌 THE SNAILIES 2017 🐌🐌

The Well Hello There - newest and latest find that gets your motor running

The Flusher- money spent on this product would have been better put to use by flushing it down the toilet

The Jack & Rose- the product you’ll never let go of because there’s plenty of fucking space for the two of you on that piece of wood. Damn you, James Cameron, for breaking my poor little tween heart.

The LTB- it all seemed so promising, everything was going so great, then they turned out to be a narcissist gaslighting bastard

The Child Prodigy- that one product that’s annoyingly good and isn’t afraid to be smug about it

The Worker Bee- never the centre of attention but has been steadily chugging along like no other

The Troll- the one where you repeatedly asked, ‘Is this doing anything?’, but continued to use it anyway…

The Flabbergaster- that one product or technique that wasn’t really supposed to be used like that or delivered well beyond your non-existent expectations

The Sinner- oh, admit it because we’re all guilty of it, what did you do or use that wasn’t all that sensible like take an acid bath and had the disastrous results you really knew to expect

Why is Lush delivery so slow? I ordered from there and from Feel Unique at the same time. FeelU was free postage and arrived today but Lush (£4 postage) is still somewhere in Devon (I'm up North). It really puts me off them.

Ahem ^ that was before I decided to be more frugal.

Sophie, I don't really understand why you're using the Vit C 3x a week in the AM and 3x a week in the PM . The preference is generally to use Vit C in the AM as it helps boost the efficacy of SPF and minimises environmental damage on our skin. It's usually used at night when using the over 20+ formulations as they're cosmetically inelegant.

The trouble I had with TO Retinol in squalane was for it to show any signs of efficacy I had to use it on its own (so cleanse, then TO retinol and no other products) which caused other issues as it's quite greasy but it wasn't moisturising enough on its own. Topping it with a night cream, even delayed made it ineffectual, couldn't use a hydrating serum underneath, etc. You may not have those issues so it's up to you if you want to carry on trialing it.

WRT the ultra calming mist, I'm generally of the less is more attitude, so only use if you need it.

WRT Retinols the ones I mentioned are ones that have been around for a while, Skinceuticals and PC are pretty hardcore. The Medik8 is a good one as you can graduate up into strengths. LRP Redermic is a good initial rentinol but not everyone has great success with it. There's also Dermaceutic (a French cosmeceutical brand) which is more all rounded as it's a cream (not an issue for Retinol to be in a cream) and also has a Vit C derivative in it and Ceramides. Conversely, Dr Dray is not a fan of the Avene TriAcneal at all, RP has its critics and I would say the Avene one is best suited for acne rather than anti-ageing, primarily.

The new one I discovered that I mentioned last night is Skinpep 0.5% Ultra Retinol, they attracted my attention as the price is low (£19.99) and they sell a trial version, they also have a very good explanation on how to use it, by buffering it with an HA gel (you can get a set, again available in the trial sizes) and building up use very gradually which means circumventing the tiered system with different products as they sell just the one Retinol product at the maximum allowed dosage but you simply build up the amount of product used over time.

Their Vitamin C is here (£14.99), also available in travel sizes. I've put it on my 'to try' list as it's a lot better value than Vichy.

Pupsie, does the LRP have fragrance in it? I know I've dismissed on some grounds, I suspect it was that or silicones.

yong, why stop at the face? I've had acupuncture, though cupping (performed by the same acupuncturist) is more effective on me, but for the acupuncture the needles just went everywhere, face, shell of the ears (kinda painful going in), scalp, body, basically everywhere. They also connected them to what I think was microcurrent. Twas all very relaxing despite the sound of that.

Enid mentioning she'll finish up a shampoo eventually has reminded me of SH's latest initiative, the Beauty Bank which will happily accept donations of unwanted beauty products, I know we all have some stuff lingering in backs of cupboards.

Ooh, very interesting Skinpep products there, Bo. I may trial the retinol and Vit C - am so afraid of my DE C serum running out and not having anything to replace it with. (No sign of DH going to the US any time soon. Might have to call in a favour with some US-based friends!)

Hello, I’m the OP on the 'face like a bag of spanners' thread here in S&B. I think I’ve compromised my skin by abusing it with glycolic Liquid Gold, a REN bioretinoid and Kiehl's midnight recovery and Clinique Intense Surge cream which smells like pure alcohol. Not all at the same time obvs.

I’m using up the Dermalogica ultra calming trial kit I bought and hope you can recommend me a bland moisturiser. I’m 54 and should know better. Nothing with Shea butter or essential oils in case they’re the problem please. Thanks.

Botemp - the reason I am using vit C AM and PM is because the vitamin C I have is in ampules. Instructions say that because vit C is very unstable and easily decomposes to inactive products, each ampule contains the vit C 10% as a powder which you mix with the serum and then use. Each ampule lasts 2 or 3 days but you really need to use it within that time. Then you activate a new ampule (vial) and use that. Hence the AM and PM for 3 days. I appreciate your point that vit C is not necessary a night but I don't have much choice with this product.

So did you see the TO retinoid showing signs of working when you weren't putting any other product on or were you not able to experiment with it?

Do you think 2 times a week acid toner is too much for me?

I actually have a retinol eye cream and face cream from Castalia (the chronoderm range) but it doesn't state how much retinol is in it and I'm thinking it isn't much and I should be using a stronger one.

thanks for the details. I'm thinking to try with the TO one a bit seeing as I now have it but the Medik8 looked interesting too.

Is there anyone on this thread who has actually seen a visible improvement with any retinol/oid? Which one are you using please??

Many thanks.

I forgot to ask if there is a specific vit C product that people recommend? The Vichy one? I can find that easily here.

The Beauty Banks thing is an excellent idea. Really strikes a chord with me. I'll definitely be donating to it.

Am very cross with myself. Noticed a couple of small spots popped up on my face. The only new thing I have used is the LRP hyaluronic serum. I was stupid and didn't check the ingredients list before I bought. Looked now and it has paraffinum liquidum..... I was already suspecting I had a problem with paraffin/mineral oil and this kind of confirms it.

Argh!!!!!!!! What a waste of money. Will have to give it away.

So can anyone recommend another hyaluronic serum? And this time I will check the ingredients BEFORE I purchase....

Hi everyone >>waves

Sophie oh, I'm sorry I didn't think to ask if you had any reactions to anything before recommending the LRP - didn't cross my mind as their ingredients are usually quite clean. I'm sure you could sell on eBay as it's nearly new.

Not your fault at all Bagel. Please don't apologise.
I was suspecting I had a problem with paraffin/mineral oils as I seem to react if I put, for eg, Nivea blue face cream (which contains the same or something similar), on my face and so this seems to have confirmed it for me.
I just assumed LRP products wouldn't contain such things (as compared to brands like Nivea).
My fault for not checking ingredients. Think I'll go to the pharmacy tomorrow and have a look at similar serums (and their ingredients!) from other brands we have here like Vichy, Avene etc as I would like a hydrating serum.

Sophie I use hylamide sub q as a HA serum, it's a thin, water like consistency which is why I like it as I don't want anything oily under makeup, I've never tried any others. I struggle with Vit c as seem to be mildly intolerant to it (makes me itchy), my last try was the Vichy one. I've got an active formulas one lined up to try next but my skin is behaving badly at the moment so waiting till it settles down before I test.

Waves back to Tant and you've reminded me I need to RP the Paula's choice BHA

I'm having a bad skin week too, I've got an excema like patch on my chin, a scabby crack at the corner of my mouth that I thought was a cold sore but isn't (been to the pharmacy who said it was just cracked) and am breaking out in lots of little whiteheads on my chin and nose. I haven't used anything new or different so putting it down to a combination of a hectic travelling week last week, not following my usual routine, and hormones as I feel like I might get a period any day.

bo yes I've had loads of acupuncture over the years, not just facial and lots of traditional Chinese medicine generally- herbal etc. Not cupping though or moxibustion.
Have to travel quite far for a decent practitioner in my area though but I do know of someone local who does just the facial acupuncture (non medical) so was contemplating it.

Bo no the LRP Redermic isn't scented or siliconey. I find it very moisturising and don't need anything on top.

Sympathies to yong my back plays up a lot too so I have to be careful about which exercise won’t exacerbate it.

Interesting about beauty bank bo. Our school does some work with the Trussell Trust food bank that’s mentioned. I’ll contact them and see if we can organise a donation of toiletries, sanitary products etc at school, as food collections have always attracted lots of donations.

sophie in the article I linked, only the first 3 were actually DrSams recommendations for retinoids (the last 2 ‘get the gloss’ own recs). As Bo said Avene is more suited to acne prone skin. Medik 8 a good solid derm recommended brand. I’ve used LRP one (without SPF) and not seen any change to my skin but to be fair I was a bit on/off with it so didn’t give it a proper chance. I used TO 2% retinoid when it first came out and it didn’t impress me. Intellectually I know that retinoid won’t change my skin overnight but I just wasn’t seeing any benefits at all. For you TO one might work, lots of other threads on here with people loving it. It’s worth giving it a go, since you have it then you can graduate to something else.

I’ve graduated to now using a retinoid licenced and FDA approved for acne (adapalene/differin). It’s prescription only in UK but available OTC in US. I don’t have acne but I do have oily skin so predominantly I’m using it for pore clarity and if it has any anti ageing effects (it doesn’t claim to have) then great. What I do know is that it has evidence backing up its claims as a retinoid. I’ve definitely noticed retinization of my skin with some dryness and a few bad effects from eyebrow waxing, which left my skin grazed (I’ve never had that before). Sounds negative but reassures me it’s actually having an effect on my skin.

Everyone has a different story to tell with their experiences of products, which I love hearing about on here.

Hi Tant You sound busy! I use the Avene spray thermal water after cleansing and before moisturising, (and any serums). I'm using it almost like a final rinse. So soak my face with it and pat it off. It feels refreshing and soothing but I wouldn't say it adds any moisture or anything.
I also use it as a setting spray after I finish my make up. Light spray all over and gentle very light pat with a beauty blender. It gets rid of any excess powder and really does help it last.

I find it hard to explain what the spray waters are like as I know logically they shouldn't do anything at all but I do really like them.

User Does the scabby crack look like angular cheilitis? If it does, you could try taking B vitamins and Zinc and cover it with lanolin.

I had acupuncture once, years ago. It was an interesting experience, I felt very calm afterwards but don't know if that was just the practitioner and my tiredness. I'd like to try it again now I'm older and more sceptical.

Thank you Userallusedup. That serum potentially sounds good. I also don't like anything oily or sticky on my face. Is it the Hylamide SubQ anti-age serum by Deciem you mean? a small bottle with a purple label and a green one for the eyes?

thanks for the info JDSTER. Seeing as I now have some spots AGAIN I'm going to give my skin a break from anything new/advanced until it's calmed down and stick to a basic routine. Am busy checking ingredients on every product I own!

So what is the name of the retinoid you are now using JDSTER? It's easier to get prescription only products here where I live. I think I will try my TO retinoid first as don't want to waste any more money right now

there's just so much out there and I guess it's all a learning and trial-and-error process to find out what works for your own skin.

Thinking to also go and see my dermatologist and get her opinion on all this as she knows my skin well.

Right, why is it that no matter what shampoo and conditioner I use I end up getting big sore spots in my hairline at my temples??

Thanks jdster. Belated welcome sophie - yes to checking ingredients! When pupsie started this thread last year, the focus was (and still is) about an ingredients-based approach i.e. Do the research and check what you're putting on your face rather than being swayed by marketing claims (as of course we are all prone to). There is quite a bit of trial and area but we are all here to help and in the long run you should save quite a bit of time and effort (and hopefully cash) plus nail down what works best for you.
mint I get those and have basically concluded I am a bit allergic to shampoo, probably the sulfate. I've been trying a low-poo approach which has done wonders as well as the occasional calm down with some prescription anti dandruff shampoo which doesn't foam either. I used to get those spots all over my scalp but not anymore. Means the end of fancy-schmancy shampoos (though you can still spend plenty on low-poo no-poo) but better for me, the end of life long painful spotty/scabby/dry flaky skinned scalp! Might be worth considering?
On a make-up related note, it's been a long time since I've bought mac products (though used to like them a lot) - do we have any love on here for them still? (Looking at you olli)
Oh and just to add to the thermal water spray debate, I use it very first thing before cleansing. I also do a top-up spray in hot weather, as and when. I get the massive sprays for tiny euros in France though to make this be a feasible daily thing.
In other news, Egyptian magic cream is rocking my world and doing wonders for my winter dermatitis which is giving me the eyelid crepe of all eyelid crepes....

sohpie it’s brand name is differin. If you’ve got a derm who you know and trust I’d see her like a shot.

My deciem order just arrived.
I ordered 1.2y and 2.1y in the serum in order to mix and/or cope with the different areas of colour on my face/seasonally. First go I am really loving them! Texturewise especially. Colours are really close (not perfect but good) and I would say so far that this is better for me than the Sephora I used lately (though that was good - and poss slightly better colour wise) and the Laura mercier I have also loved previously.
Liking the stealth coverage (I can't even do medium coverage let alone full) and it feels like it will actually stay put not sink in to nothing.
I would still need concealer targeted here and there but my hyperpigmentation is very noticeable so that's not surprising.
Thumbs up!
Also quite pleased the moisturiser thing now is a bigger tube, didn't notice when ordering so it won't run out as quickly.
My Total Rebuild is going quite well so far.....now to book hair appointment... 😬

miffy, DE is supposed to launch in the EU sometime this year. I think SpaceNK will be carrying it.

Welcome, Newseeker. Have you read through the compromised skin barrier info sheet in the OP? More crucially than a need for a moisturiser, are you using an SPF, it's really important normally but extra important when your barrier is compromised. Either a mineral SPF to minimise potential irritation, but the Bioderma Cicabio SPF50 is also good as it has extra soothing and restorative ingredients in to help restore a compromised skin barrier.

There's a few recs for products in the info sheet, I often rec the Eucerin 5% Urea one as it's easy to obtain and works well for most skin types.

Sophie, it didn't show any progressive changes, just temporary. I'm currently not using a retinoid product, at the beginning of the year I started suspecting TO Retinol had gone off (again, the formulation of TO are not their strong suit) and wanted to remove it, to see if that's what was the cause and just to see what my skin is like without it. I was also trialing something else new so have been waiting it out before starting a new retinol product. I've earmarked the Medik8 R-Retinoate, it was the ingredient I used at first before switching to TO formulations. There's a huge price difference between them but one worked for me, the others didn't. I continued to use the R-Retinoate (from Verso) for the eyes all this time and I still continue to see efficacy there. I have really sensitive skin otherwise I would have gone down the prescription route, although someone else on this board (Tsnmummy I think) is on prescription tret after years of struggling with ordinary retinols and doing splendidly so that has made me reconsider whether tret is completely off the table. Like you I'm not in the UK and access to tretinoin is easy, for most on this board that isn't the case. If you have easy and affordable access to a derm as JDSTER said above, a lot on here would be in there without a thought.

A lot of us are either on the TO Vit C and living with the textural challenges or on the Vichy one. The downside with the Vichy is its limited expiration once opened (1 month) so I keep it in the fridge and that seems fine. The Skinceuticals CE Ferulic is the gold standard but comes with a gold pricetag.

I like the Vichy89 for a hydrating serum, should be easy to find.

Ah, I see, yong. Never heard of someone restricting it to just the face but if it helps, it helps. I'm usually not one for chasing a lot of alternative therapies, but acupuncture does have a lot of research behind it and I've always found it helpful (not curative) but you have to go consistently, I feel.

Pupsie, no, I meant the hydrating serum, sorry. But Sophie has already revealed the ingredient on which I rejected it, mineral oil.

JDSTER, that sounds like a great initiative.

No, no, no hair talk yong, have you learned nothing from this thread . Enid, have you been yet? I've realised I'm nearing a year if I don't go soon