Opinions on H&M's new shop - Arket?

[banivani]

It's online now (as a "preview" nonsense) here:
www.arket.com/en_sek/index.html (hope link works)

Some nice things, but poorly designed webshop.

Actually one thing I do like is the way the models are posing I'd rather they just stood there and let you see the clothes than try and distract you with winsome smiles and cute children.

Ok, I ordered the wide-leg tailored wool trousers, the straight indigo jeans and a t-shirt for my husband to try. Missed out on the merino trousers with my dithering, damn. ;) I'm warming up to the website, actually!

Mrs Pear with those measurements I suspect 40 will be way too big for you - 38 or even 36 I'd guess. But that's on the basis of &OS and Cos sizing so...

I agree with PPs that there's a lot of design recycling going on, but that's across the H&M group, not just with Arket. Completely agree with the person who said they were expecting to fill a basket but found nothing exciting. When &OS launched that felt like fun and I still have and wear a few things I bought in that pre-sale.

Has anyone actually been in the store today? Would love to know what the quality's like, especially fabric weights, etc.

Oh ok brogueish I will try a 38. Hopefully it will still be there Monday and then it will come as I return to the UK.

I get where you're coming from Flo, I started off working in retail design (architect specialised in interior spaces) and despite having lovely colleagues, the creative agency being a wonderful nurturing environment, I had to leave as soon as I could because it was so soul destroying. Being a tad melodramatic about it but it was so frustrating to see the sums that were spent on external consultants for lighting, custom scent installations, sound engineering, etc. all for the concept of 'Brand Experience and Immersion' because retailers struggle so much with the concept of what to offer in brick and mortar spaces that actually got people to part with their money.

Needless to say, no one ever questioned the clothes themselves or how they were approaching their target audiences. They only ever went by broad measurable data which meant cosmopolitan locations were prioritised over regional ones (and they get the 'nicer' clothes too) purely based on average income of postcodes, completely ignoring disposable income is significantly less when the cost of city living is high. Most of the projects I worked on got realised with huge sums of investments before the companies all, predictably, had to file for bankruptcy but even if they hadn't, the interiors are ripped out within 5-7 years because as soon as a store is underperforming, surely it's down to the 'dated' feel of the interior .

I have to switch off my insider insights when shopping as it otherwise ruins the experience but I still can't stand the over-engineered concepts. I'm more likely to appreciate a well-crafted and thought out space more than most but when I'm coming to shop, it's for the clothes, not to be seduced by the surrounding trinkets and pick up some random shit along the way. Pathetic as it may be, I do have some sort of emotional attachment to clothes, it's more than just functional and it brings me joy and shopping used to be a lot more joyful in that sense. It's beyond what's on offer and their website experiences to me in that sense.

I know the most used word to describe Arket so far has been 'boring', and I'm kind of okay with that if it means not having to deal with the superfluous noise. Isn't that what everyone is basically asking M&S to be again, reliably dull? All the threads on here asking for a uniform of neutral colours, a capsule wardrobe, staples, classic pieces, etc. are in effect asking for boring things. I do think Arket and retailers like it should consider other avenues of outreach if they primarily settle in cosmopolitan areas beyond a website and Social Media. Old school as it is, a catalogue (they can spend a bit of dosh on it making it look like an independent magazine, stick in a few recipes, etc.) would work quite well for them and reach those who struggle with their website and it makes for much better browsing. Doesn't really work with the fast fashion concepts but I don't really know how Arket's production has been structured. Cos and &OS are a lot 'slower' but they still do drop new products occasionally within a season as far as I can tell.

That's interesting botemp - and slightly depressing that they have so little idea what works. I do shop online of course but I find it totally joyless. One of my favourite real shops sells mostly vintage / second hand. The environment itself is quite scruffy but the staff are really into what they're selling and they know me so the whole experience is enjoyable, even when I come away empty handed. Plus you never know what you're going to find so there's always an element of anticipation and surprise.

That's the kind of experience they need to try and bottle. But first they'd have to get their heads out of their arses and out of the West End.

That's very interesting Bo. Agree with Flo that it's depressing that they don't seem to understand the market, or rather don't seem to understand hiw much is left to tap (clearly they're making money anyway). I experienced one of my pet peeves today in my local Hennes - I saw a pair of interesting trousers in one of my fave shapes, wide legs. There were about 10-15 pairs left. Two size 40, three 38 and the rest 34s and 36s. I was ready to shop, but I need at least a 42 and the one pair they bring in was sold I suppose. It's baffling. In the end they just move that stock to the sale rack, they don't understand the demographic at all. :/

the staff are really into what they're selling and they know me so the whole experience is enjoyable

That is pretty much one of the biggest issues with regular retail, they vastly undervalue things that are hard to put into numbers and start tinkering with all the wrong dials instead.

It is all a bit depressing I suppose but I've long accepted that I'm just not an interesting customer to most retailers. I like fashion, ergo it takes little to motivate me to shop without need so I'll be shopping regardless. I understand fabric and cut so know what things are worth, don't think I've ever paid full price on anything at Zara as the quality simply doesn't warrant it. The biggest sticky, I'm not brand loyal and never will be. Trying to cater to me exclusively would see them losing an easier led demographic who are more interesting in their volume. At the end of the day selling is what they care mostly about. I do work on the occasional independent boutique or similar and it's such a stark difference, their brief basically reads as, 'make our product look the best it possibly can' rather than, 'make the customer buy into our brand making whatever we are selling interchangeable'.

Independent and vintage shops understand it better but they don't draw in the crowds, it requires more effort, a better understanding of personal style and really well trained, or at the very least interested, staff. I remember pre internet days it was quite common for small independent shops (not even high end boutiques) to call up my mother when they had new stock in, specifying exactly what would suit her. Most of that stock would be sold within days of arrival but most struggle trying to compete as the focus is so much on cost these days. Anyhow, yes it probably is time for a bit of a change up in the retail landscape and I expect there will be some soon as the profits just aren't coming in as they should but I'm not expecting it to be something I'll respond to all that cheerily.

I think we should switch places Bani, all 40-46 here and if I'm lucky I can find a 36 and guess whether I need a 34 or smaller, a size which almost no retailer seems to want to sell here. Argh.

I try and support independent shops as much as I can - it's one of many reasons why I've gone back to buying more second hand / vintage. They know their stuff, they're interested and the all round experience is just so much better. And they they may not have my number / email but they've been known to beckon to me if I'm passing and they've got a coat or jacket they think I'll like

Stop being so coy and give them your number already Flo

It looks very Cos to me, I like look of the tapered trousers. I agree with everyone complaining about flagship stores in London and no shops in the rest of the country though - I live in Edinburgh, it's not the back of beyond, and we don't have Cos or &OtherStories here. I very rarely find things in H&M that I like - I can take an armload of clothes into the changing rooms and none of them will be nice on - weird shapes, flimsy material, odd seams. That makes me wary of ordering online for any of these companies as they're probably using the same body shape model (Zara is also very hit or miss for me) plus the returns process is a pain. I'd love to be able to walk into &OtherStories or Cos and try stuff on - they're also a bit higher than my usual budget so I want to know if I love it before parting with cash.

I daren't botemp - I would end up the best dressed person in the homeless shelter.

Blimey Mary - if Cos haven't even made it up to Edinburgh they really are missing a trick.

My package arrived today. A bit of a mixed bag. The home stuff is absolutely ace, the wooden trays are a true standout for the money.

Underwear isn't worth the money, it's nice enough but not for their asking price.

The green trousers are a total miss, I was hesitant already about the fabric (about 50/50 synthetic/natural) but it looks and feels like very cheap synthetic. I'd rank the quality as the H&M basic line (the grey label stuff which I tend to avoid like the plague) where I was expecting COS. There are some issues with the fabric not laying flat around the zip pocket at the back and subsequently, there's puckering around the stitching. Not enough to qualify as a factory default but not far off it either. From the online pictures, I'd expected a stiffer weightier fabric but it's much more like a fancy tracksuit bottom tbh. The colour contrast of the green and white pocket in the back is also a bit garish in comparison to the pictures, the contrast is too high to read like a distinctive design element. There's definitely a disconnect here between design ambition and production cost. In all fairness though, part of it is my own fault as it appears I didn't read the description where it says quite clearly "Tracksuit-inspired trousers" . Anyhow, fabric, fit, and value for money is rather disappointing on this one.

The Heavy-Weight T-Shirt is odd. This is well made and probably better suited for a different body type (for reference I'm an hourglass, usually wear an XS or smaller) - probably those a bit longer in the midsection and not too wide in the hips. It is, however, the oddest cotton I've ever come across. Supposedly 96% Cotton, 4% Elastane but it's so bloody smooth I refuse to believe it isn't synthetic. It's beyond odd .

Sizewise- I'd say it's truer to size than most of the H&M group (from what I've tried on anyhow), I think &OS is most comparable in size but I did pick two quite fitted items so it may just be down to that.

That's a bummer Bo. Sorry to hear sizing is consistent too, that means what I got probably won't fit since I assumed it'd run large, like Cos does. Grumble. My stuff hasn't even shipped it seems :S so who knows when it'll come. I bought a heavy-weight t-shirt for my husband, we'll see what it looks like compared to yours. Shame if the quality doesn't match up, the free returns made this shop a real contender for me. If the best stuff is the stuff that isn't actually their own brand ... well then they won't stay in business will they? You can buy them potato peelers in any supermarket.

Interesting to read what you said above about independent shops. I've tried going into the more independent ones we have here and browsing what they have - but at the end of the day they just flog the available brands anyway, and if all manufacturers cut clothes for angular thin women I still can't buy anything. Also, polyester is polyester even if it's expensive polyester.

Their shipping notification was a bit lacking. They only sent me a dispatch notice yesterday morning, it arrived at the parcel shop around midday but I received no notification about that and only found out as I managed to remember to check shortly before it closed (still haven't received a notification but it may be down to the fact that it's been picked up?). The latter may have been all on UPS but it was a bit odd. From the tracking, I could see they had shipped it out from their end on the 26th so I don't know why they hadn't notified me then.

Thankfully I didn't buy the potato peelers The home things I bought are mostly unbranded, it's much nicer quality than H&M home.

It's tough, most independent shops will always aim for higher end customers so they tend to sell higher end clothes. Great if you can afford it, but that isn't everyone. It's really the mid-upper end of the high street that needs to sort itself out.

I do have to say, having been all over Southern Europe this summer there is a positive thing about the Northern European high street in that they're quite democratic age wise. Down south you still very much have the distinction of 'older' women shops (boutiques and chains, the type that simply didn't survive the economic downturn here in NL) that no young person would ever be caught dead in. It's very restrictive in a way, price wise especially but also in what women are expected to wear age wise. I think Zara is the only exception where you see all ages.

I don't know if it's an issue of designing for angular thin women, I think the issue is more that each individual size is representative of a natural low weight at a certain height which is then scaled up. It's all based on waist measurements assuming all other proportions stay the same, not accounting for variation in height and extra padding. It's problematic applying that method so universally when everything has become excessively more form fitting.

Being an hourglass under a size 10 is problematic, the assumption is there are no curves and that you're short (but not petite short) when the reality is at a size 6-8 you're either rakishly thin and tall or short and (somewhat) curvy. It's only down to my waist size that I need smaller clothes, on the back of my other measurements I should be in a size larger but it's not even funny, I'm literally swimming in those (though I think vanity sizing is at play too). It's madness, and why people can look extremely different despite being the same size.

I'm not sure I understand what you mean about the Southern Europe/Northern Europe difference? IME we sort of have the same distinction here. But granted, old people will happily shop anywhere as long as they fit in the clothes, it's young people who won't shop in an "old" store. ;)

I find it surprising that no-one has dared try different sizing types, like short and curvy, tall and curvy, short and slight, tall and thin - that type of thing. To me, all brands are cut too big on the waist/not enough room in the hips and arse, and too small in the chest/not fitted enough in the waist. And I'm not that hourglassy. That's what I mean by them all seeming so angular. The option of shopping independent is quickly off the cards when all clothes have such a similar, poor fit. :/ There are some big boob brands now of course, but only online really. I think different fit sizes must surely be worth trying?

I ordered a merino pullover from Arket and it was MASSIVE - had to send it back for an XS which arrived today, and even that's on the big side (especially for an XS). I found their shipping great - they use DPD next day so you get an hour's time slot and can ask them to leave it in a safe place

Hrmpf well mine still isn't here is disapoint

I was very excited about it before the launch, but the website is not tempting me at all. However, this is the same as the Cos website, whereas some of my most-worn clothes are from there. So I've decided to take a Cos-esque approach to it, in that I think it's best to only shop in person - planning to do that on Saturday for the first time.

I think they have done a bad job on the website - it is so sparsely populated and uninspiring. They really should have been better prepared for the launch IMHO.

One thing I'm really disappointed about is the amount of clothes on the website that are made from polyester - didn't expect that at all and doesn't align with the brand approach of great basics to me. Polyester is just not desirable to me and never will be.

I really want to like it as the number of shops I find myself regularly shopping in is diminishing down to Cos, Jigsaw, & Other Stories, Modern Rarity, a little bit of Jaeger and a tiny bit of Whistles and Warehouse. I'd really love another option!

I passed through this week and it is a pretty shop but polyester heavy.
COS and other stories and kin are better
Disappointment
No trace of banana rep - as if it was never there

The lanky bored washed out models look like they are drowning in the clothes. The models actually make the clothes look worse. Very odd.

I am a massive Cos fan, and when I browse that site I usually come away with a massive wish list which I then go in store to try (lucky to have one near me). I was surprised this was not the case with Arket, although for me I think it was because a lot of it was basics that I would buy but don't need to yet. e.g. I'd happily try their merino crew neck jumpers, but I have all the basic colours from Uniqlo which were new last year and therefore don't need replacing.

I did have to find something to spend the 20% discount code on though (!), so went for the longer length sweatshirt in black, something I have genuinely been looking for for a while in that I haven't found one that is plain, long length for over leggings and good quality anywhere else so far. I ordered click and collect DPD and it came in three days with good DPD notifications. It is exactly what I want, quite heavy weight and seems to be excellent quality. The test will be after I wash it though, if it shrinks or fades, I shall downgrade my review and be cautious of buying more.

Very odd about the polyester-heavyness considering that it does seem like, as Botemp said, that they're angling at a "we sell the best" approach and including several brands.

Mine has shipped now, apparently.

Yeah, I can't really speak for the whole of North Europe but in my neck of the woods there's very much a mentality of 'things we like' and 'things we don't like, old people must like'. Not necessarily reality, but undesirable shops/brands on their last legs tend to be designated as designed for older people when that isn't much the case, rather they simply haven't moved on with the times.

In Southern Europe, there are many brands/shops designed specifically for certain age bands that appear far narrower. Which has its plus and minuses, it's quite restrictive in a sense and ties heavily into the whole age-appropriate wardrobe concept.

The divide here seems to be much more city vs. provinces. Assumed different tastes (practical, shapeless, older, more frugal, and larger sizes) and less to offer if you're not in a metropolitan area. All the major cities here have at least 3 or 4 H&Ms plus most of their sister stores, Zara a minimum of 2 plus their sister stores too. We might have densely populated cities but they're not large (Amsterdam is pretty much a big village when compared to other capitals) so it feels like overkill, especially considering we have some of the most highly priced retail space per m2 in Europe (though big chains like H&M get massive discount incentives as they have a high attraction value which allows developers to raise the price for surrounding retail spaces). Provincial towns will be lucky to have one of those and the assortment rarely appeals.

Shame on the poly-heavy rapport. I did note above that I found it odd that the 96% cotton/4% elastane t-shirt I ordered felt more like a synthetic fabric. Also, the trousers were only 50% synthetic (not even polyester) but they were the most synthetic thing in feel I've come across in a while, it felt like full on 100% polyester. The basics like sweaters, denim, t-shirts, and work trousers seem to still be 100% natural fibres or similar, so it may just be down to what you're looking at.

It's all beginning to sound like Cos when it first started (we got the first store outside of Sweden back in the day, it must have been well over a decade ago, maybe even longer, they didn't even have an online store) everything was either on the small side or two-three sizes too big. It appears it'll have to be a store visit before I contemplate buying more clothing from them again.

I went by the shop this week and tried on that skirt. There were very few sizes left and I've ordered (hopefully) the right size online. Along with this dress, which is unfortunately polyester. But there's the discount and free delivery with the first order, and free returns so I don't mind trying stuff on.

The skirt is cotton and despite my body shape I like the voluminous shape of the skirt. I also picked up a cheap crew neck cotton t-shirt whilst in the shop. Sizes are a bit random, I've gone for a S in the tee which surprised me as I'm very busty.