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Even More Fantastic Skincare And Where To Find It

999 replies

botemp · 16/12/2016 10:37

Thread 1

Thread 2

For those who are taking a peek and wondering whether thread 1and 2 are worth reading we mostly discuss a bit of advanced skincare here with a perspective of seeking out the right ingredients for our particular needs. Distinguishing the acid toners from the actives whilst avoiding the truly unimpressive and harmful ingredients with a hope to achieve a bit of anti-ageing, alleviate irritation and sensitivities with some idle chat in between deviations on this thread are mostly my fault. Xmas Grin

If you're in need of some advice coming to grips with your skincare routine please don't hesitate to ask, we don't bite, only occasionally sting with a bit of Biologique Recherche P50 now and then Xmas Wink. Just make sure to state clearly what your concerns and needs are, skincare is highly individual and a random recommendation for a 'good' product will be completely different from one person to the next.

If you want help, have read through the previous threads, but if you still have questions use the following form to make life easier on us. We generally answer up to two people a day on a first come first served basis. Not everyone will have answers and sometimes we can't answer you at all. We're only a bunch of amateurs that can respond by suggesting what we would do in your place, for any severe conditions please seek out professional help.

Skin type:

Approx age (range):

Primary skin concern:

Routine :

AM :

PM :

Makeup : eg. no/light coverage/medium coverage/heavy coverage

Occasional treatments:

Things I've tried in the past with disastrous results:

Things that are really working well for me now:

Any dietary/health concerns/pregnant:

What I'm willing to spend on a single skincare item: eg. >£10, £10-20, £20-50, £50-100, no limits.

I specifically [want help with/am looking for a product to/am curious about trying]:

OP posts:
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EnidButton · 16/12/2016 23:23

Yes thank you for the new thread bo I forgot to say it in my last post. Star

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JustGettingStarted · 17/12/2016 08:23

I'd like to ask about retinols.

I have used Retin A in the past. I still have a tube. I am not keen to experience the "it gets worse before it gets better" stage. But perhaps I will go through it.

Currently I use a combination of Olay Regenerist and Nip and Fab stuff.

AM: wash with a mild cleanser like cetiphil or just water.
Nip and Fab Glycolic acid pad
Olay Regenerist serum
Olay Regenerist three point firming moisturiser with spf 30

PM: Superdrug Hot Cloth Cleanser
Nip and Fab glycolic acid night serum
Olay Regenerist night cream. (Paula says being in a jar is bad. I am not as sure. I would be grateful for a bottled substitute.)

I know that's a lot of glycolic, twice a day, but my skin tolerates it. If I do a retinol then I will skip the night glycolic serum.

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JustGettingStarted · 17/12/2016 08:24

Would a good retinol be better than Retin A?

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JustGettingStarted · 17/12/2016 08:26

I forgot to add: my skin is great. No spots. Clear and glowing. I'm 47. I don't know if I should even contemplate adding more to the routine.

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Dulcimena · 17/12/2016 10:04

Just, I'm not sure why you want to change your routine, clear and glowing sounds brilliant! What are you looking to achieve?

I'm not a fan of retin-a at all, but whether you should reintroduce it or try an alternative retinol really comes down to what you want it to do. I have to say that if I could consistently describe my skin as clear and glowing, I wouldn't change a thing Smile

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mintmagnummm · 17/12/2016 11:10

My skin has gone crazy the last couple of days, I think it's from using the expert face brush instead of usual sponge for make up! Skin feels sore and extra irritated! Have few red lumps too :( (I'm indecisivejo btw fancied a name change)

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AuroraPolaris · 17/12/2016 11:25

JDSTER well if the NOID smells of coffee it's smg my husband might be prepared to try. He doesn't use any skin care...

I think that if you feel the oil in your routine is enough of an occlusive (i.e. keeps the humectant effect of the other products locked in) and a moisturizer for you then it is enough. Which one are you using now?
I use oil after serum and then just before bed add an overnight mask, but I like layering and my skin is on the dry side.
There was some info upthread (the previous one) from a few days ago about that retinol oil. I think it's considered quite good but if you want to introduce retinol why not get TO 2% and continue using your own oil?

Dulci I'm using TO Matryxil and am very pleased. I initially thought it would not be enough but it is. I haven't given Buffet a go though. You can always mail Deciem and ask.
I used the Benton as a serum in the AM. It's an essence so in AB theory/ logic should come after cleansing or spray and before a heavy duty serum... if you succumb to the 10 step routine Xmas Wink
There was a nice diagram on their site, I'll look it up.... watch this space!

Just I'm also not sure what you would like to achieve. Can you be more specific so I/ we can maybe provide you with an helpful answer?

So glad to read about skin improvement overall ladies Xmas SmileXmas SmileXmas Smile

Pupsie hope you are OK over there Flowers

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Pupsiecola · 17/12/2016 11:30

My skin has been a bit more red the last couple days. I think I am going to give myself a break from actives. Last night I just double cleansed (EH + Toleriane), PC BHA and then used a Face Theory moisturiser. It definitely looks calmer today.

I think I need to a) make sure I'm not using too much product (I defo can be heavy handed, especially with drops like TO Nia and oils) and b) give my skin a regular rest from actives. I wonder whether to do this every other day. Don't want to use so little that results are non existent though? Do others take this approach?

TBH I had already decided to really pare things down whilst skiing. I won't take the things I keep in the fridge so no Vit C or caffeine eye stuff. I will probably take my LRP Redermic eye stuff though. Then I will take my usual cleansers (will need to double cleanse on account of all the SPF), probably just the Niacinimde, my travel PC BHA for every other day and my Face Theory day and night creams. So no Vit C, no retinol, no oils, no P50.

Haven't done my usual weekly mask this week either cos of all the chaos at home but will do that today for sure.

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AuroraPolaris · 17/12/2016 11:32

This is an example of a routine. I don't mean to imply you have to do all the steps...

Even More Fantastic Skincare And Where To Find It
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botemp · 17/12/2016 11:58

Lots to catch up on...

I've noticed that too with silicone, Aurora, if it's used in skincare formulations in place of carrier oils it irritates the hell out of me. If like in makeup and SPF it's there to sit on top of the skin, no issues. The science doesn't really back me up on this because even in penetrating formulas silicone remains on your skin but it may just then be how the formulas are made or something (one delivers the ingredients while the other pertains it, maybe)? Also Paula Begoun seems to insist there is no such thing as silicon sensitivity and it's all in our heads Hmm.

I've done both low-sugar and no-sugar and as contrary as it sounds no-sugar is so much easier to manage. In all honesty it's not completely no-sugar as certain social situations you can't get around it and it's in plenty of things that I don't prepare myself as well as naturally abundant in fruit & veg, etc. With low-sugar for me there always remained this continual cycle of my body wanting some (which still happens under the prompt from hormonal imbalances but it's a lot easier to recognise) and you inevitably fall in the trap of 'I've been good for so long, I should reward myself' etc. With no-sugar that isn't that present and the odd bit doesn't reverse all other progress either strangely.

Sorry, Enid only valid till Monday.

JDSTER for HA to not dissipate into the air (or worse pull out all your skin moisture) you need an occlusive on top that can be oil, moisturiser, or both. What you're doing sounds fine. If you're using the Retinoil from P&M that would come in place of serum and then whatever else you use comes on top (and I think you'd lose a bit of efficacy as a result but the Retinoil would be your main powerhouse serum in that routine anyhow). You could also just leave it at the oil and be done with the routine.

Good to know there's such a difference with the Bravura Fizzy, the PC are very well buffered (ie. their pH and therefore efficacy is maintained throughout the lifespan of the product, this isn't the case with a lot of acids). I think you got the lotion, right? Read it was recently reformulated so there may be something in that too.

Just, yes, more info on why you wish to use it would be helpful. For a night time moisturiser alternative have a look at Face Theory, they come in a pump (though I agree that the PB jar propaganda is a bit of nonsense but admittedly a pump or tube is so much more convenient). Pupsie, likes both the day and night time moisturisers, they're at a good price point and clean and simple formulations that should cater well with an actives routine.

Bugger it Jo, yes synthetic brushes are the devil when it comes to sensitive skin. I prefer natural hairs only for the powdered stuff and the BB for liquid and cream formulations.

Aurora, hope you had a nice time at the party yesterday, did you dare to go out in the heels? Xmas Grin Need to desperately avoid de Bijenkorf today, am in a buying mood.

OP posts:
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Dulcimena · 17/12/2016 12:00

Oh that's helpful, thanks for posting that, Aurora. So if I use the snail bee essence in the morning, it goes before TO buffet/nia, is that right? I get a bit confused by the AB definitions (essence, lotion etc) tbh... You're right though, I can't see myself subscribing to the full 10 step routine! bit too lazy for that Blush

Pupsie yes I too think I'll be making sure not to overload skin, esp around cyclical freak outs. I'm also interested to know what impact that might have on efficacy. Listening.

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botemp · 17/12/2016 12:03

Missed you there Pupsie, yes, a paired down routine definitely sounds sensible for skiing. I'd cut out all the sunsentising actives considering the altitudes and daily sun exposure you're likely to get.

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botemp · 17/12/2016 12:07

Yes the AB definitions get very confusing, Dulci, as a thing like lotion in S. Korea is more like a French lotion (a light moisturiser) but in Japan it can be anything from a hydrating toner to a serum. The general rule of thumb is to go from lightest (wateriest) to heaviest (oiliest) and always SPF last. It really depends on the essence where it comes in, eg. a lighter one would precede the TO serums (which tend to be on the thicker side).

OP posts:
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mintmagnummm · 17/12/2016 12:10

bo can you recommend any natural hair brushes please? I like the real techniques sponge for liquids but am tempted by a bb, what do they do that a normal sponge doesn't??

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botemp · 17/12/2016 12:20

BB do a special sensitive skin version (without colourant as far as I can tell) and they're all non-latex, supposedly you can also use it for skincare products but I've never attempted it (again to minimise pressure of fingers and therefore irritation to the face). I believe (but again never tried) the RT sponge is very similar and also latex free, I'd still prefer the BB because I use the round bit on the bottom quite a bit to gently tap in with less pressure than the sides and the RT has that flat edge to it instead. My preferred natural hair brushes are from Chikuhodo (the Z-series) but they're crazy money and you need to buy them from Japan, the Zoeva luxe ones are good at lower prices from goat hair that keep well despite washing them regularly (every 2 weeks).

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exhaustedhome · 17/12/2016 13:32

Dear all

I'd be so grateful if you lovely ladies would help me. I've always terrible skin, diagnosed with rosecea about 15 years ago. Have had many many treatments for it, haven't bothered going to a doctor for years now though. My skin is just dreadful at the moment and definitely getting worse. I've posted some pics for you to see the problems. I work in a very stressful environment, no fresh air and often not drinking water for 8 hours plus - so I know this doesn't help. Any advice or suggestions would be gratefully received.

I'm using avene stuff currently, has made no difference whatsoever! I've tried many many regimes - just cannot seem to get on top of it.

Skin type:* dehydrated/red/oily at times

Approx age (range):* 40

Primary skin concern:
Redness and lumps!
Routine :


AM :* avene redness relief cleansing milk
Avene antirouge hour

PM :* avene redness relief cleansing milk - hot flannel with it
Vichy aqua thermal

Makeup : foundation every day but always disappears within an hour - using Lancôme 24 at the moment

Occasional treatments:* none

Things I've tried in the past with disastrous results:

Radical skin care exfoliating pads
Sea buckthorn

Things that are really working well for me now:

Nothing!
Any dietary/health concerns/pregnant:*
None
What I'm willing to spend on a single skincare item: eg. >£10, £10-20, £20-50, £50-100, no limits. Anything really

I specifically [want help with/am looking for a product to

Make me look less red and lumpy!

Even More Fantastic Skincare And Where To Find It
Even More Fantastic Skincare And Where To Find It
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FizzyBubbly · 17/12/2016 13:44

Hi and welcome Exhausted I'm very much a nerd in training here so don't feel qualified to give advice wrt products, but as a fellow rosacea sufferer (albeit very early stages) the part of your routine that stood out was the hot cloth cleanse. Just my two cents, but the last time I HCC'd it caused my rosacea to flare massively, and I'm sure extreme hot/cold temperatures can make it worse. Is this something that could be aggravating your skin?

Am sure some more expert advice will be along shortly...

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user1471503992 · 17/12/2016 14:35

I thought I'd post a progress report and thank you all, especially Bo! I'm the poster who was using Lush serum bar that you found so weird. I retired that. I'm now using Superfacialist Vit C cleansing oil and LRP Toleraine in the evenings with the Superdrug hydrating serum and Face Theory M2 moisturiser. I'm continuing to use the PC salicylic acid three times a week in evening, and in mornings I don't stick my face into the shower water any more, but just wash with tepid water, use the serum and moisturiser and a layer of LRP factor 30 sunscreen. After two weeks of this (the moisturiser only arrived last week), my under the skin bumps on my forehead are gone and some of my blackheads are gone. I'm going to start looking at actives after Christmas, you recommended niacinamide and possibly the Buffet in place of the Superdrug serum, which would be a bit of a step up. I found a face peel mask in the drawer with AHA and tried that, and I got a bit of a breakout between my eyebrows afterwards, so I will leave that alone - it's Elemental Herbology radiance peel, and I couldn't find out much about it online, if anyone has tried it.
My boyfriend and my sister are convinced I don't need to wear sunscreen in winter in Scotland - do I need it if it's raining? I am putting it on anyway, but what do you think? We currently get about 7 hours of daylight and I work in an office so see the sun for about half an hour in the morning and again at lunchtime - if it's out!

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user1471503992 · 17/12/2016 14:38

Just to add, my diet has been shocking recently with loads of sugar, alcohol and junk food so improvement is definitely skincare-related!

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Pupsiecola · 17/12/2016 15:05

Welcome exhausted. I too have early rosacea but have only had one major flare up, at the time of diagnosis. I do get general redness with the wrong products/exposure to triggers (extremes in temp, red wine, spicy food, tomatoes etc.). I'm a skincare newbie too but again the hot oil cleansing really stood out as being a potential problem.

Also, I have found that just because a product is marketed to those with redness it doesn't mean they're a good choice. For example, LRP do a rosacea range, but I prefer the Toleriane.

I will let someone more knowledgeable recommend specific products. Is it worth going back to the doc and asking for a referral to a dermatologist? I know you have tried many treatments, but you also say you haven't seen anyone for it for years. Could your skin have changed in that time? My issues was quite hard to diagnose and my GP was a bit flumoxed. Turns out I had early rosacea flare up + a specific type of eczema. The dermatologist knew what it was straight away and diagnosed some topical treatment and anti biotics. I think I took those for about three months.

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Pupsiecola · 17/12/2016 15:05

Great update user. Glad to have another Face Theory fan on board :-)

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Pupsiecola · 17/12/2016 15:09

*prescribed some topical treatments and anti biotics.

Actually I just looked up my dermatologist's letter to my GP. It was rosacea + seb derm. Not hand it since though and my skin mostly behaves itself.

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AuroraPolaris · 17/12/2016 15:23

bo where do I start? Let's just say that it was probably the most boring party I've ever been to. It was in a club for 25th wedding anniversary of a very nice colleague and friend with live music and DJ from Antwerp so we thought it would be nice (though believe that even if this sounds super trendy it's not the kind of people I know/ hang out with and I haven't even been to a club for years). For some reason the very nice mutual friends we have were not there, so we escaped left after half an hour and went to have a drink somewhere else.
No I didn't wear the shoes I planed (Chie Mihara black ankle boots with bonze details and heels, also bought in the Bijenkorf sale last xmas Grin) because by the time we left the house I was so tired I didn't have the resilience required. I wore the Philip Lim trainers though (also black with bronze, coincidentally) but not with a dress.
Hope you are avoiding that very tempting sale today. Remember, it'll be much much cheaper in a couple of weeks!

Yeah, I know what the "experts" say about silicone sensitivity, but I'd rather listen to my skin, thank you very much!

Agree that zero sugar (aka cold turkey) is much easier than low sugar. I think sugar is so addictive that unless you really cut it out your brain keeps begging and nagging and begging and nagging. The first few weeks are hell... but after that you just develop a different relationship with sugar Wink.
I am "allowed" to eat fruit (incl dry fruit) and anything that is 100% fruit (like date syrup, which I use a lot for baking). Because in my case it's health related I do check every label of stuff I buy. I only disregard this in bread, but also have a bread machine which makes most of our bread. When I was sick I also nagged asked about every single dish in restaurants, but now I'm doing well do not ask about savoury things anymore. I never stray because I know what the consequences on my health could be (besides twice-three times a year when we are on holiday and on my kids' birthday when I always taste from their cakes). I know I sound like a "saint" but believe me it was hard to get there!

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AuroraPolaris · 17/12/2016 15:27

The Benton essence is a bit jelly like, but so it TO matryxil, so hard to say what should come first if comparing those two. If you adhere to essence before serum then do Benton first, or just one in the PM and one in the AM? That is what I did until recently - Benton AM and Hylamide Sub-q PM.

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AuroraPolaris · 17/12/2016 15:49

welcome user and so sorry you are having such a hard time! I'm no rosacea expert so I will leave it to the other sufferers and to bo, but you can certainly start by switching to LRP Toleriane cleanser.
Maybe ditch the Lancome foundation too? I used to use a lot of Lancome many years ago but eventually it started irritating me and giving me spots.
If you want high coverage why not try to blend some Vichy derma blend with moisturiser or see what other ppl here are using.

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