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Disguising tear troughs, finally something that works

104 replies

otchayaniye · 07/03/2011 10:55

Basically a tear trough is a groove or very slight indent caused by thinning skin (so appears bluer and darker than just a dark circle) and slight bagging of the eye, which creates a slight shadow. Just using a plain old concealer isn't going to properly disguise them and loading more on will make it look even worse. You can google 'tear troughs' images to see what I mean.

You can get them in your thirties and genetic factors (thinner, paler skin) exacerbate it.

I am beginning to get the start of these not badly in all honesty but it really annoyed me as I think I look ok for my
age (39) except for this, which makes me look really knackered.

I bought all the concealers -- even Cle de Peau ($$$$$$), many eye creams (they don't work but do provide a nice surface
to apply stuff) and got more sleep. It did nothing.

The only way to get rid of them is to get restylane fillers or have blepharoplasty. I was starting to consider this as it just bugged the hell out of me and was the thing I'd zero in on if I caught my reflection. I just looked so tired.

Anyway. My makeup artist friend (big, has own makeup brand) helped me out. It really has made a huge difference, so much I
want to share it as you can be like me and spend a fortune and search for hours for a perfect concealer and it won't work and
just make you look too made up (especially in this harsh British daylight) or 160 years old.

You basically need to use two shades to recess and bring out the different areas of the undereye to disguise this trough.

I use a salmon corrector (not concealer). Eve Pearl is great but hard to get (US) but Bobbi Brown corrector is also very good. I apply this on the dark area but if you have any fine lines try not to apply too much to those and really just concentrate on the dark. Tap in.

Then use a very small brush (lip liner is good, I use a very small headed Bobbi Brown concealer brush as I happen to have one) and apply a tiny amount of concealer two shades lighter (I use BB warm ivory) JUST in the shadow the slight bag creates. It helps to look down in a mirror in natural light. Only apply in this line tapping lightly in. You are effectively trying to 'bring out' this area, not the skin around it. Any concealer will do but Bobbi Brown do a good range to pick a good two shades lighter, as do MAC or you could buy a Ben Nye or Kryolan wheel -- they go cheap on eBay.

I use a large EcoTools concealer brush to tap this line in.

I then use Laura Mercier Secret Brightening Powder with this brush just on this line. Apply too much and it makes the under
eye look chalky, and draws attention to any fine lines. Basically I sacrifice setting power with not having too much product
or powder. Any powder will do, I just happen to have this and want to use it up.

Other tips for knackered eyes is to use a lilac wash (really brightens -- Mac Digit is lovely) eyeshadow. I avoid too much sparkle although a slight sheen is fine. And I always wear something on the waterline. Either an Illamasqua nude pencil or a darker LM one. Again, anything will do, the trick is to disguise the red rim.

This takes a light hand, good light and practice but this one trick has single handedly made me look better, less knackered
than any expensive cream or eyewateringly expensive concealer.

OP posts:
cheekychopsmum · 07/03/2011 18:04

Thank you for this post, I'll give it a try

WhoKnowsWhereTheTimeGoes · 07/03/2011 19:44

Me too, I had never heard of them described like this but they are definitely what I've got.

otchayaniye · 07/03/2011 19:48

"I've never yet looked at another woman and thought, "She'd look so much better with more make-up or plastic surgery!"

That is precisely what I think too. This method isn't about using tonnes of makeup (btw BitofFun, I know that youtube you linked to and that's not the technique and I think in daylight that's way too much make up and she's young so product settling into fine lines isn't an issue) -- it's about using far less but using it properly and cleverly.

And I am very wary of cosmetic surgery and procedures. The fact I was considering it doesn't mean for one minute I'd actually have it done. 'Consider' means just that -- think about it and maybe decide no. I can now disguise this problem well enough an don't feel the need. To be honest, for me, botox is about as far as I'd go.

I have no issue with people going for plastic surgery but I often feel that it can be a slipperly slope (gets addictive), it can mask a deeper body dysmorphia, and sometimes it just plain doesn't work to alter the structure of the face.

I have no problem with ageing. I think I don't look too shabby for knocking forty and I expected with my celtic skin and years in the tropics to have some fine lines. I don't have nearly as many as I'd expected and am quite pleased. I am happy looking a cared-for 40. I don't want to look 30 (weeeellllll Wink) Just like I'm happy to be a 10 rather than hankering for the 8 I was a few year's back.

There was a picture published in the DM of Vanessa Paradis slagging her off for having a couple of wrinkles. To me, she looked a happy and like many a well-cared-for French woman you see in Paris. Normal, not stretched.

What I am not happy with is looking prematurely aged or just tired. There is something about tear troughs that just makes you look downtrodden, weary, knackered and like you have been crying on and off for years.

If that makes me insecure, then that's your opinion. If I in a moment of pique looked up cosmetic procedures, I still don't think that makes me a surgery addict loon.

You wear concealer to cover dark circles after a heavy night. Tight jeans to make your bum look nice, heels to make your legs look leaner ... the list is endless. Some people with specific problems and the money may consider more draconian measures. It still doesn't necessarily make them cringing, insecure creatures hoping to keep their man.

Anyway, I've found a youtube of a makeupartist (I have watched in the past some of his other vids and he's good) who has actually demonstrated this and described it. I wish I'd found this a year ago and several $$$ of concealer products ago!

some comment here

I'll try and find the vid, have lost it now!

OP posts:
PlanetEarth · 07/03/2011 19:53

Blimey, all I said was "Learn to love your skin as it is." Is that really so controversial? Confused

otchayaniye · 07/03/2011 19:57

Ah, here's the video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/gossmakeupartist#p/search/44/or6OX2kGM98

OP posts:
otchayaniye · 07/03/2011 19:58

Do you wear makeup at all PlanetEarth? Get rid of unwanted hair or dye your hair at all?

OP posts:
PlanetEarth · 07/03/2011 20:02

Yes I do (though I spent about 15 years not wearing make-up and some years not shaving).

But it seems very time-consuming, and when I mentioned this I was told, well it's better than plastic surgery! Think I'm living in a parallel universe.

otchayaniye · 07/03/2011 20:19

Gosh, you can't have that much respect for yourself if you cannot learn to love your features in their natural glory, without resorting to cosmetics Wink

45 sec per eye isn't time consuming, although I concede my description was long winded, I was mainly talking about the products and how to avoid looking cakey.

OP posts:
WincyEtNightietilMayBeOut · 07/03/2011 20:25

I have these. Have had them for years and years (am 36). My Mum has them. Even my 4 year old DD is starting to get them!! [grr]

Doubt I'd manage the make up tricks in the OP very successfully but it's nice to know the theory anyway. And at least my ageing feature now has a name!

Thanks OP Smile

TattyDevine · 07/03/2011 20:29

It may not be controversial PlanetEarth but why not go and comment on the "what kind of highlights should I get" thread and say "learn to love your hair the way it is". And the "what Boden stuff should I get in Spring" thread and say "why not just buy any old thing, its what's inside that counts"...

Or, if you are not into Style and Beauty, rather than going to all that trouble, perhaps there is another board that suits you better?

AintMissBeehiving · 07/03/2011 21:03

This sounds interesting - I have undereye trenches troughs and will be trying this tommorrow. Smile But what's the difference between a concealer and a correcter?

otchayaniye · 07/03/2011 21:08

A concealer is the same tone as your skin and highly pigmented in order to cover. A corrector is in a shade that counteracts the colour of an area you are trying to correct. So blueish, purpleish shadows under the eyes (from the blood vessels showing under thin skin) are corrected with a salmon coloured product. There are green correctors and purple ones for other effects.

The get the effect thought you don't need to splash out. Use a normal tone concealer and a lighter one for the groove.

My routine is just finessed and I've splashed out because I do this everyday so I get bang for my buck, as it were.

OP posts:
AintMissBeehiving · 07/03/2011 21:12

Thanks Smile

TattyDevine · 07/03/2011 21:40

Check this out

Apparently very good as a cover cream in its own right, but in terms of "corrector" there are various "drop in" colours too for that bespoke shade...

smallwhitecat · 07/03/2011 21:45

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Message withdrawn

smallwhitecat · 07/03/2011 21:46

This reply has been deleted

Message withdrawn

berri · 07/03/2011 21:48

Gosh, not shallow at all, don't be silly. For you to take the time to write out how to sort out something that bothered you - which also might bother other people on here - is not shallow but actually very nice :)

WhoKnowsWhereTheTimeGoes · 07/03/2011 21:49

That doesn't work for me, my glasses, which do look good and I get lots of compliments for, make things look far far worse in the eye bag department, contacts are much better.

SueWhite · 07/03/2011 21:51

The 'go natural' ones tend to have themselves down as a total babe in the first place. Sometimes accurate, sometimes... not.

Havingkittens · 07/03/2011 21:57

This is a more detailed description of what I was trying to recommend in the "Ultimate beauty tips" thread last week. It works on the basic principle of light and shade - light will bring an area of shadow out and a darker colour will recede an area. This is why putting a concealer/highlighter all over the under eye area can often be self defeating. You only need to place the lighter colour or highlighter in the actual groove.

Otchayaniye is right, it's not a question of piling on the make up, it's just a clever and fairly simple technique that works once you get it right.

Had no idea they were called tear troughs though, I've learned something new today!

PlanetEarth, I can't help wondering whether you took a wrong turn and ended up here by mistake. Off to the recipes thread next to let everyone know how much you hate cooking and that they should all be eating our veg out of the ground as nature intended? "I've never once looked at a courgette and thought, you would be so much tastier griddle fried with some garlic and chilli" PMSL

TattyDevine · 07/03/2011 22:49

Last seen in the due-in forums saying that she never much cared for children, questioning why women cannot feel complete without the frivolous need to procreate... Grin

brimfull · 07/03/2011 23:44

otchayaniye-thanks for the link to the gossmakeup you tube tutorials. Have just spent ages watching him and he has some great tips ..love him!!

WheeshtWillYe · 08/03/2011 03:47

Thank you! And great youtube link too, this is so helpful.

PlanetEarth · 08/03/2011 08:58

OK I take (some of) it back, 45 seconds is not long.

My comments about feminism though were aimed more at the mention of plastic surgery; whether feminists should wear any make-up is a discussion for a different place and time.

As for the cooking and children comments, really not worth responding to Hmm.

sweetheart · 08/03/2011 09:49

I'm really looking forward to watching that tutorial and seeing if it's something I can achieve. I have my consultation on Friday so hopefully I can find something to help without going down the fillers route. So peed off as I've just spent a small fortune on S&G products which promised to fill wrinkle lines and plump out and hollow skin areas - guess what - they didn't work!

The last couple of days I've given up with the creams and I've noticed that just by touching that area less the lines seem to have faded slightly. I think it can actually have a negative effect applying creams all the time!

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