That all ties in with what i had heard. The reason transition towns are so interested in Cuba is that they suddenly had to learn to cope without oil, when the Russians stopped supplying them. It is a bit like the massive problems that Transition towns anticipate hitting us all when our energy supplies start to be really squeezed.
The power of community tells the story of this very sudden transition. It was clearly a huge shock and a lot of people suffered, but the whole way that they run their economy now is based on having to find ways of doing it without oil.
The stuff I have seen seems to indicate that they are all heavily into growing vegetables, and use permaculture a lot. - don't know if you saw evidence of this.
I think meat consumption is supposed to be pretty low too.
Your account of the shiny new hospital is interesting. It is claimed that the health of the people really improved after the crisis hit. People had to start walking or cycling, couldn't eat so much, and had to do a lot more physical work. What also seems to have happened is that the health care and education were all brought right into the center of the communities, and the doctors and teachers live where they work.
I am wondering if in some ways it was like my experience of Rural Ireland in the 60s. There we had a lifestle were there were very few cars, there was a limited range of stuff to buy, the pace of life was much slower, and people spent a lot more time around each other.
I think it was friendlier and more fun!
The way we live now is just a moment in time. Things were different before and it will be different again.