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Use our Travel forum for recommendations on everything from day trips to the best family-friendly holiday destinations.

Which country in Africa?

54 replies

ICriedAllTheWayToTheChipShop · 28/07/2022 09:26

I want to visit somewhere in Africa next year - my interest is to see some natural history, so animals and landscapes, and maybe a bit of archaeology too. I'd like to spend at least a couple of nights in a tented camp or safari lodge.

I've narrowed it down to Kenya, Namibia, a twin Zimbabwe/Botswana tour, or Sudan. I'm just wondering if anyone has been to any of these countries and can offer opinions on which would be the best? I'll be trying to visit off-season so it's not too hot, but temperature is a factor for me because of menopausal hot flushes!

OP posts:
mizu · 30/07/2022 09:51

I've been to Sudan - and while it wasn't my top holiday destination - it is a pretty amazing place.

But yes, not very safe at the moment......

I love that someone on here wants to go though Smile

ICriedAllTheWayToTheChipShop · 30/07/2022 09:57

I think I'm going to have to try them all over the next few years, but Namibia has the best mix of what I'm looking for so that will be first. Tanzania does look amazing but I'd have to save up for more than a year for that one.

OP posts:
TizerorFizz · 30/07/2022 11:44

@Crazykatie
There are not many hippos in the narrow Okavango waterways. All the lodges there explore by canoe. Makoro canoe. It’s what you do there. You don’t have 8 people in one either (well not what we saw!) No one would canoe around hippos. Although I’ve seen advertising for canoeing on the Zambezi but I’d be careful about that. In the Okavango you really would not get the feel for the place if you didn’t go on a Makoro trip.

ICriedAllTheWayToTheChipShop · 30/07/2022 12:04

One of the things I like the most about Mumsnet is that a thread on African travel can also encompass hippo-canoe-avoidance advice! I'm middle-aged and not very adventurous really, so canoeing won't feature in my itinerary... I do love animals though, and would love to see a hippo or two in the wild, from a safe distance.

OP posts:
DisplayPurposesOnly · 30/07/2022 13:04

I'm middle-aged and not very adventurous really, so canoeing won't feature in my itinerary...

I'm middle-aged, not very unadventurous and went on a short canoe trip on the Zambezi in May. It was magical. Never say never!

We used two person Canadian canoes, each had a guide at the back paddling and a tourist at the front saying 'ooh' and taking pictures. At least one guide is specially trained to lead canoe trips. His job was to keep us to the shallow waters so hippos could escape to the deeper channels to avoid us. We never (knowingly) got close to hippos, they flicked their ears and disappeared when they saw us. We had strict instructions to keep all body parts inside the canoe (no dangling fingers in the river) because of crocodiles. We were 'warned off' by an elephant on the bank, who was drinking and thought we were too close. He flapped his ears and shook his head at us. Bit nerve-wracking but amazing. Highly recommended 😁

DisplayPurposesOnly · 30/07/2022 13:18

By the by, I've been to Zambia twice and - clearly - love it for safari, but not sure it fits your list to include archeology.

I used Expert Africa both times but I think they might be more high end than you are looking for. You might want to look at Yellow Zebra Safaris for a wider budget range. They get good reviews and I met two of their reps on my last trip, really nice guys who adore (and have lived in) Africa.

TizerorFizz · 30/07/2022 13:37

@DisplayPurposesOnly
Expert Africa does list cheaper lodges but Zambia is not cheap. There are not a huge number of lodges and most are small. I’m glad you enjoyed your canoe trip. The Okavango ones are more of a float. I think the safety record of canoes is pretty good. One person posting here isn’t really representative of what most canoe trips are like. We did the white water rafting from the base of Vic Falls many years ago! Zambian lodges also do night drives which are wonderful. Some other areas might now allow this. Its a big bonus as are walking safaris which were pioneered in Zambia. We saw lions!

Yes. Archaeology and safari countries don’t really go together. That’s why Tanzania is possibly the best bet as it has both.

chesirecat99 · 30/07/2022 14:12

If you were considering Sudan and you aren't planning to travel until next year, you might like Ethiopia, depending on the situation at the time. Most of the best destinations are only categorised by the FCO as "check advice before travel", a step above Sudan!

Unfortunately, ATM, the Danakil depression (the hottest place on earth) with its salt lakes, lava lakes, volcanoes and neon acid springs is off limits at the moment, as is Axum with (allegedly) the lost ark, and the remote state of Gambella, which has the best wildlife for a "traditional" safari. There are still plenty of opportunities to see lots of wildlife though, the monkeys of the Simien mountains, hippos and crocodiles in Lake Tana, Ethiopian wolves, lions, cheetahs and leopards in the Bale mountains, Ethiopian elephants in the south east (if you are lucky), tame hyenas and vultures in the city of Harar...

You still have vibrant Addis Ababa with its museums, the amazing underground churches of Lalibela, the castles of Gonder and the nearby falasha (Ethiopian Jews) villages, the animist tribal regions of the Omo Valley (but please avoid the "human zoo" tours), and the tiny muslim walled city of Harar with it's 200 mosques and shrines.

chesirecat99 · 30/07/2022 14:15

I forgot the source of the blue Nile and the rastafarian city of shashemene, probably lots of other things too...

DrDetriment · 30/07/2022 14:20

Forget the Sudan. Way too dangerous. And Kenya is mostly awful - crowded, a rip off, unfriendly people, with an underlying air of violence. Namibia is stunning. Great choice. I've not been to Botswana or Zambia but have heard good things about them.

DisplayPurposesOnly · 30/07/2022 14:22

One person posting here isn’t really representative of what most canoe trips are like. We did the white water rafting from the base of Vic Falls many years ago!

I was simply offering a 'middle aged, unadventurous' Zambesi example to the OP. Clearly it's not the same as a canoe safari or your own white-water rafting example (both of which would be too adventurous for me). I was in Lower Zambezi National Park, not Victoria Falls.

Im also familiar with the range of what Expert Africa offers (and that Zambia is expensive and why). I suggested another company for the OP to add to her research alongside in case EA isn't right for her.

countrygirl99 · 30/07/2022 14:32

If you want to see Hippo in Namibia you need to head to the caprivi strip. Very different to Etosha. @ICriedAllTheWayToTheChipShop

countrygirl99 · 30/07/2022 14:33

Not sure how that tag got there. Sorry if it's irrelevant/unhelpful.

MarshaBradyo · 30/07/2022 14:34

No suggestion but nice thread about rich variety of countries

TizerorFizz · 30/07/2022 18:45

@DisplayPurposesOnly
I was not criticizing you! I know that trip. Haven’t done it but I would not be put off by the poster who had a bad experience with hippos. I’m agreeing that doing something adventurous is fun. Climbing out of the river valley after the rafting was a killer though!

Ducky88 · 30/07/2022 18:50

Zambia. In particular look at McBrides Camp in Kafue National Park

ICriedAllTheWayToTheChipShop · 30/07/2022 20:44

All advice is very much appreciated. I have more places on my wishlist now and more research to do!

OP posts:
Carlycat · 30/07/2022 23:13

No suggestions but great thread. Now I want to go to Africa!

Carlycat · 30/07/2022 23:13

No suggestions but great thread. Now I want to go to Africa!

Carlycat · 30/07/2022 23:13

No suggestions but great thread. Now I want to go to Africa!

comfortablyfrumpy · 30/07/2022 23:27

thenightsky · 29/07/2022 20:32

Tanzania, Tanzania or Tanzania. Can you tell I'm bias?

I would agree on Tanzania.

Zimbabwe also. (Though I am not sure how things are there at the moment)

Buttons294749 · 30/07/2022 23:29

Another vote for botswana

countrygirl99 · 31/07/2022 11:29

If you end up going to Victoria Falls wear quick drying clothes! We've only been in May and June when the falls have been full so it might not be as important later in the season. But at points you might as well have a hose turned on you. I also discovered that the colour ran from my leather belt into my light coloured shorts so that's worth thinking about as well. Worth getting the Kaza visa so you can visit both sides.
But be prepared to get addicted to Africa. We are saving hard to go again. Probably Botswana and the Caprivi. Maybe Zambia. We want to go September time to see carmine bee-eaters.

countrygirl99 · 31/07/2022 11:31

Although I also want to go back to Okanjima and do the pangolin tracking. Need to win the lottery😁

TizerorFizz · 31/07/2022 11:54

They have reintroduced pangolins to Phinda in South Africa. That’s not cheap either! I also think the culture of people is what makes Africa different. Not really buildings in this part of the world. No one can say Vic Falls isn’t amazing though! The rafting is quite hard work but, for us, a once in a lifetime experience and achievement. No crash helmets in our day either! What were we thinking?

DH is keen on trying to see wild dogs again. Or painted wolves as they are now called. We saw a big pack in Zambia years ago but would think Botswana is best chance now. I think if you have been to a number of countries you get favourites but you also start to want to see more elusive animals.

On a side issue, for the very adventurous, is the Turkana bus still running in Kenya? That was always the off the grid adventure!

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