Cyclists: Cannondale Synapse- should I or shouldn't I..?

[MrsGhastlyCrumb]

I know there are people on here who know their stuff, so hope you don't mind me asking for some advice?

One of these has crppped up, used, at a local shop. I'm looking to replace my ancient M500, which I've been riding for half my life. I'd like something lighter, nippy and fun for transport/commuting/maybe some longer rides. I quite like road bikes but haven't owned a decent one, just ridden other people's from time to time.

Do you reckon this is a decent bet? Also, it's apparently a 48cm frame. I had a go on it without realising, but at 5'4" I think I should be the next size up. Even though it's second hand, it's still £££ for me, so I'm worried I might regret it if I get this wrong... thanks in advance!

The only way you’ll know is to go and ride it. Your height does not correspond to the frame size you need. It’s all about the geometry of the frame according to your proportions (like leg length) and flexibility. Don’t worry about any of this - just go and rest ride it and see if it feels good and comfy.

Bear in mind you can make numerous adjustments to suit:

• saddle height, type and position
• stem (the thing that attaches the handle bars to the forks) length and angle
• handle bar width and thickness
• crank length (the things the peddles attach to) - mine are short so I can fit onto a smaller frame the geometry of which fits, next size up doesn’t
• you’ll be able to bring in or release out the position of the brake levers (women’s hands tend to be smaller)

If you have any friends or family who cycle they’ll likely have a cupboard/ shed/ loft (🙈😂) full of components in all shapes and sizes you can experiment with.

You say it’s from a shop? So providing it’s a decent bike shop, it should be fully serviced. But don’t assume it!! If you decide to buy. Don’t until you’ve checked wear on front and rear pads. Chain wear (they’ll have a chain tool - ask them to measure chain stretch - although if they say it’s a new chain (and it looks it), don’t worry. When you test ride make sure you shift through all the gears, preferably on a hill. That’ll demonstrate the state of the cables. If it isn’t shifting gears easily, it’s not been serviced and could involve extra cost. If it’s rim brakes - check rim wear (run your finger round, you’ll be able to feel it’s worn). Check tyre wear. Lift it and slowly spin the front then back wheel. If one isn’t spinning well and kind of wobbles, it’ll be out of true (the bike shop can easily sort that). If it sounds rough, it’ll likely need new bearings. If it’s a bit crunchy and clicky when you peddle (especially under pressure) the bottom bracket (bit in the frame the cranks attach to) is likely shot.

All of these issues will need fixing. The Labour and parts cost money. So what may seem a good buy can easily end up costing several hundred quid extra. If that’s reflected in the price, then fine. It’s worth noting bike components are hard to get hold of at the moment and more expensive than ever (import duties thanks to brexit, then issues with production from covid). So it could be ‘cheaper’ to buy new.

If you have an experienced cyclist as a friend or family member - take them along. They’ll be able to easily suss what work (if any) needs doing and if it is worth the cost. Only you can judge if the bike will work for you.

Good luck!

Unless you live in the south of France!! Or only ever plan to ride it in the dry when it stays dry (about 2 days a year in England 😂)… make sure you can attach full mudguards (a must for commuting, unless you live somewhere hot and dry). Also, if you plan to commute - make sure it’ll take a rack. Commuting with a backpack is sweaty and uncomfortable (voice of bitter experience).

My best bike will not take mudguards or a rack. That’s fine. I bought it to race, ride in the summer and pose on 😂😂 My ‘winter’ bike which i commute on year round and train on has the holes for mudguards and a rack (and has both fitted). I wouldn’t have bought the frame if it didn’t.

What I’m trying to say is the intended use of the bike is important. Eg It’ll be pointless if it’s an all out race bike if you want to commute on it. So do consider that too.

Likewise think of the terrain you’ll do most of your riding over - if it’s road… you’ll need a road bike. If it’s off Road, as in Bridleways, gravelly towpaths, you’ll need something a bit more rugged - cyclo cross or (sighs) gravel bike (basically a marketing thing to open traditional cyclo cross bikes up to a new much bigger market.

Thank you so much, @WhiskeryWoman - you really do know your stuff! Lots of notes taken: I had tried the bike for a few loops of the block, but the shop was about to close so didn't have time to do much more.

Turns out that Cannondale don't add fixing points to their road bikes, and I need a rack (totally with you on the sweaty back thing!) so I left it anyway. Looks like gravel/cyclo is the flavour I'll need, marketing or no: my commute does involve some tracks and I do usually ride through the winter.

Thanks again! Can I ask whether you have any preferences for make of bike? I'm still looking at used, especially as Brexit has caused prices to rocket. Grrr.

Sounds very sensible to walk away! The right one will come up for sure. Luckily ‘gravel’ is such a big thing and huge market, you’ll get what you want… vs a few years ago when you’d have been stuck with a hybrid (cyclo cross bikes are/ were very niche).
I absolutely don’t favour any brands - I own 5 different bikes, all different brands, but all utterly perfect for what I want them for and fit like a glove. They all literally feel like parts of my body (not all at once obviously 😬😂).

The best brand will be the one that meets your needs.

I don’t favour ‘women’s’ bikes either. None of mine are marketed as women’s bikes, but essentially sold as men’s. They’ve just been specked to suit me. I’m a very average proportioned woman too in terms of height, leg length etc.

Your commute sounds ace! It’s so nice to mix up roads with trail.

The only thing really to look out for (over and above what we’ve already said) is bike weight - go for the lightest you can afford.

Please do check out bike2work - you can buy it through salary sacrifice. The scheme isn’t as generous as it once was, but it’s still effectively an interest free loan. So you can potentially up your budget. I think you can do up to £1,000 in vouchers, but add your own money into. I’ve certainly used it for much more pricey bikes. You can also get separate vouchers to cover kit and accessories.

Once you become more experienced and strong bike weight won’t hugely matter as you’ll have the engine and muscles (unless you start racing or doing crazy events). I say this as my winter bike is horrific. Cheapest, heaviest wheels, heavy bomb proof tyres, steel frame. And I commute lugging a laptop and books 😂

Starting off weight is important though.

Good luck and keep us posted 😬😬

I agree with absolutely everything @WhiskeryWoman has said.