I quite like being a lawyer (specialise in family), partly I must admit because I only work part time so feel that I have a life outside work. I have always worked in small to medium sized high street practices, never a big corporate firm which would be another planet altogether.
A levels I did at night school, having left school at 16 to work in a factory (family expectations). did English, History and German at Alevel while working full time, and qualified as a legal executive on a distance learning course which took 4 years while working firstly as a legal secretary then within the court service, then as a trainee legal exec.
So far as the qualities you need for a family specialist, firstly people skills as the people you're dealing with are always traumatised to some extent, patience, attention to detail but also able to see the bigger picture, ie what the client can realistically hope to achieve, and the best way of getting there.
The pay for a qualified, experienced legal exec is on a par with a solicitor (in rural areas about £50k pa), and is a good way of earning whilst learning, tho' extremely hard work in the early years.