Stitch and bitch #7. Hanging by a thread

The box pleats do look inside out but the gathers seem to rather unfortunately radiate from the crotch area. If you were able to make the pattern work, they'd need to start much higher.

I'm not the biggest fan of Friday pattern company but hair new Bernadette skirt is rather cute https://fridaypatterncompany.com/collections/all-patterns/products/bernadette-skirt-pdf-pattern

Cute apron. I find that style so much better for my neck.

In the 70s there was a (simplicity? probably) pattern for a lined skirt (made of tweed or gabardine or similarly heavy-ish fabric) that my mum did - beautiful box pleats all the way round, properly done where the fold from one meets the fold from the next inside. But they were sewn down up to the part of the hip where they could flare out. It was a beautiful flattering fit, and I'd really love to make one for myself one day. (lined, and my mum used an invisible zipper too)

My French teacher had one and that was when i realised how bloomin' brilliant my mum was at sewing. So neat, everything looked very professional.

It's a Lacroix (darling channelling AbFab ) pattern from the 90s I think - before Web 2.0 so before user-generated content on the web, & no pics I've found even on PatternReview.

I haven't made it for a few years, so don't have a skirt from my wardrobe.

@TragicMuse what are you looking for in a skirt? Do you want a full pleated skirt? The slightly lower than natural waist is sometimes hard to wear - I find it's rarely flattering on me - I have wide hips, but a small waist in proportion to hips & shoulders.

I sometimes find that I make a toile and the garment just doesn't suit me. It's annoying, but I just think, well, the pattern plus toile fabric cost me less than a shop-bought skirt would have, and chalk it up to experience.

@Brefugee I have a pattern from the mid-80s or early 90s like that - I think it's Anne Klein or Ralph Lauren or Donna Karan (when they all did Vogue patterns ...) I think it's knife pleats rather than box pleats, but it's lovely - and as you say, very flattering as it's smooth & fitted over the hips and nips into my waist, but gives me room to move with a full skirt!

I've made it a couple of times, and it can be fiddly to fit smoothly over hips & adjust into the waist but I muddle through

they were definitely box pleats because my mum showed me how to make them. And that if your fabric didn't press well you can sew down the insides of the pleats (the part you don't see) to make them sharper and make it easier to keep them in place.

'what are you looking for in a skirt? Do you want a full pleated skirt? The slightly lower than natural waist is sometimes hard to wear - I find it's rarely flattering on me - I have wide hips, but a small waist in proportion to hips & shoulders.'

That is a really good question @SideWonder!

I want something that has interest - isn't just a basic a-line. I would like a bit of a balloony shape, ideally. A zip is ok, I would prefer buttons probably. I'm slightly over elastic waists, it is a great panacea but I think I'd like something a bit more fitted. But if that's the option I can live with it.

The Richmond has a hem facing i didn't add with a drawstring to make it a bit lantern-shaped. I'm not averse to that!

I want it to be below the knee - midi at least.

And it needs to come in a plus size for my waist and hip.

I'm not bothered about 'flattering' meaning slimming, nothing is disguising this arse tbh! I want flattering to mean it suits me just as I am. It looks nice on.

Fortunately the toile was an old duvet that had a big rip so didn't cost anything and the zip was the last bit of some continuous zip which I might be able to salvage. And the thread was from a pack my mum bought which is ok, but it's not Gutermann!

Oh and I'm not wedded to pleats!

I think the colour does stand out, somewhat. It's far too bright and clean compared with the main fabric.

You could sharpen it up with "airmail stripe" bias binding along the flap.

Have you thought about dying it. Using tea as a dye will drop the whiteness down to blend with the other fabric.

I think the shape is good...I like the look!

I dont think it looks amateurish at all! But I do think the tea dye is a genius idea.

Button adjustment has been added to the apron. I dithered for an hour just looking at it!

Now looking at fabric for the jacket. Thinking of getting some loomstate twill from Dalston Mills and dying that a damson colour. Dylon do a suitable one. I do like home dying effect, it is never perfectly even and gives an interesting slightly marbled look.

Please may I have some input on which pattern sizing choice to make? I want to attempt my next raglan top, so I’m going for the Allie Olson Coram, which I bought aaaaages ago from the Fold Line.

For reference, my measurements are:

Full bust 40 inches
Waist 32 inches
Hips 37 inches
(Yes, I have a very broad, boyish figure! Hence the raglan obsession as it narrows my shoulders.)

According to the size chart, my measurements put me as a 14, 12 and 4 respectively (US sizes, I presume). See photo. The finished garment size chart hasn’t helped me so far.

Which would you choose in my position? 14 and grade down to a 12 or even a 10? Just make a 12 and have it tight on the bust? In RTW, I’m generally a UK14 on top and UK12 on bottom, occasionally a UK10 depending on the brand or cut.

NB I like to tuck tops into trousers/jeans/skirts so I don’t want the finished garment to have an excessive amount of fabric at the bottom.

I'm not sure how I'd go with that. I'd certainly try it out, but the size 12 top finished measurements are 45" so that mightn't be too tight. So I'd maybe go 12 grading to 10 or 8. Or, do a FBA on the 12 (but that will make it darted at bust so maybe make the raglan weird). I think a grade 14 b 12w 10h might look a bit too triangular.

Still feeling pretty dreadful. Covid hasn’t been as mild this time round. My brain is too fuzzy for real sewing so I’ve made some cafe curtains for my sewing room out of muslin I bought years ago. Looks ok and more importantly the postman won’t be seeing me when he peers through the window 🤣

@eldorado02 I’d make a 12 as a toile. I’d be wary of grading the hip down too far as you will need it big enough to get into (assuming it’s a pull-over-your-head type top).

@jins wishing you feel better soon!

@NutellaEllaElla I vote tea-dye too. I love the envelope shape, so cute.

@eldorado02 Not sure I’m best to advise here, because a top that square would never work for me, but I’d start with the bust measurement and pick a size based on that.

So, I’d probably start with a 10 and may be add a FBA (according to the dimensions you don’t need that though). That way you can keep the squareness, which I guess is part of what drew you to the pattern. If not, then grading between sizes is a good idea, but it would change the overall shape.

Hope you feel better soon @Jins

@eldorado02 your proportions are broadly similar to mine but I’m much more cylindrical.
I always fit to high bust measurement if it’s available. Failing that I look at finished garment measurements and decide how much ease I think I need. In your case I’d toile a straight 12. You could always turn it inside out and pin where you’d like the hips to be and then match it to the pattern pieces to grade it. Or do what I do and take it in at the sides until I’m happy.

Thanks for the good wishes. Covid is deeply unfashionable at the moment