Stitch and bitch thread #12. We’re in stitches!

[NutellaEllaElla]

Welcome and welcome back oldies and newbies!

Whatcha doin? What are your plans? I need some inspo. It's been a long time since i've approached my machine for various reasons.My favourite ever make has been a stretch dress, i'd wear it all the time if I could. I live in fear of the day I try to go to Barry's fabrics and it's gone. The Birmingham fabric scene is being decimated. What'll I do?!

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I’ve made the Ethel top, the Bob pants (three times!) and the Petra coat. The instructions are minimal so it’s worth looking for a sewalong or a blog post before you start.

I must retry the Bobs. My first pair, from double gauze, I compared the pattern to a pair of denim, barrel legs from Next that I was happy with, the result was awful, HUGE clown pants. So big and so wrong I don’t know where to restart!

I sized down for my most recent pair which I think has improved the look of them but the fabric definitely makes a difference too - I’ve made them in a cotton, a linen and a polyester blend and they all have a different look. I’m blessed with long legs which helps, the barrel effect is less pronounced.

I live in them in hot weather, they are absolutely brilliant.

I’ve had a busy morning so am going to treat myself to an afternoon of sewing. My dining room is nice and cool so a nice refuge from the heat!

I finished my skort with a self drafted skirt overlaying the LN Clearwater cycling shorts and despite bodging a waistband I’m really happy with them. Huge side pockets and an unusual rectangular gusset make them a winning shorts pattern. Unusually for LN the waistband hits at the right height for me rather than across my ribs and apart from grading from M at the waist to XS at the thighs no extra adjustments were needed.

No immediate sewing plans at the moment but I have a free day on Tuesday so will have a think about a quick project. I quite fancy another Sinclair Gaia now I’ve worked out where the problems are. I need to make a dent in my stretch fabric stash so that will help

I have a duvet cover which I don’t like as bedding so am making into a tiered skirt, so I started that yesterday.

I’ve just bought the Bob pants pattern, as I don’t have much in the way of summer trousers. They might go to the front of the queue.

@OnlyTheBravest I am also thinking about drafting patterns, as most of the time I'm copying existing clothes or attempting zero waste patterns. I've just grabbed a second hand copy of Freehand Fashion by Chinelo Bally because while I don't like the patterns in the book (too smart/workwearish for me), it looks like there is good advice on measurements and how to draft shapes from your own body. We'll see.
I've also just bought a copy of Fibre Mood as they had a 50% sale on. With shipping, the cost came to a total of £20, which is pretty good for about 11 patterns. Let's see what it turns out like! I did buy the issue I wanted in French as they had sold out in English, but I figure I can brush up of my language skills at the same time as sewing!

I love the look of the Bob pants, but something’s stopping me from buying them. Looking at review pictures, I think it’s one of those patterns that has to finish in exactly the ‘right place’ on your leg to look good. I’m not sure where that right place is, but I’ve seen both people who have lengthened and shortened them and it doesn’t seem to take much to go from looking great to looking off. I think it’s one of those patterns that’s great if it works for you 🤔

My go to summer trouser is Sew House Seven’s Free Range Slacks. I usually make the wide leg version, which I’ve adjusted so that they’re full length. I find the side panels, which basically create long vertical lines (especially if you use flat felled seams/ faux flat felled seams) really flattering, plus they’re easy to make and fit.

I know this is not ‘pure pattern drafting’ but I find there’s quite a lot you can do with a few well fitting patterns for basics. E,g. a basic shirt pattern can be turned into a jacket/ coat, or a shirt dress, as well as endless variations of a shirt by changing the length, the sleeves, the collar etc.

Whenever I see a ready to wear shirt I really like the look of, I dig out my Grainline Archer pattern and hack it until I’ve got something similar. It’s a lot of fun and - to me - a little easier than starting from scratch.

I quite like Fibre Mood patterns, they do go a bit quirky librarian at times (can't resist a mad sleeve) , and they are drafted for Dutch Amazons but they do have some nice ideas, and everything I've tried making from them has come out pretty well (apart from the length).

I’ve made a few Fibre Mood patterns and enjoyed them. I never think they style them very well though. I’ve only been persuaded when I’ve seen them made by other sewists.