Stitch and bitch thread #12. We’re in stitches!

[NutellaEllaElla]

Welcome and welcome back oldies and newbies!

Whatcha doin? What are your plans? I need some inspo. It's been a long time since i've approached my machine for various reasons.My favourite ever make has been a stretch dress, i'd wear it all the time if I could. I live in fear of the day I try to go to Barry's fabrics and it's gone. The Birmingham fabric scene is being decimated. What'll I do?!

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Some technical drawings on the sale page would be helpful, @twobluechickens - there's a few videos, largely of people making a bit of a hash of it but they do give some hints as to how it all goes together. It is a lot of hand stitching so I can see how trying to avoid some of it could be a bit of a head scratcher. The bodice turns into the underside of the collar and the facing is the visible side of the collar so the shoulders and back neckline will need to be sandwiched in one go.

As it's designed to be hand stitched at the very end, rather than bagged out, you will need to check that the lining is big enough.

I made a dress out of my table cloth fabric on the end. Quite pleased with it, and also rustled up another dress from an old duvet cover. Loving using fabrics that have already been hemmed, saves a fair bit of time! I made a mistake with adding the elastic casing on the striped dress, so it's not quite fully enclosed at the seam, but for a no pattern dress, I'm quite chuffed.

Aaaaargh! I had to panel my front skirt pieces and had the bright idea of flat felling the seam to make it a feature not a mistake the seam is now TOO BLOODY BIG so the skirt pieces don’t match the bodice width.

3 lots of unpicking to do on a small stitch length! DAMMIT!

Thank God it’s only a toile, albeit I wanted it to be wearable.

Ahem. As you were…

DAAAAAAAAAMN. Unpicking won’t give me enough width. And my unpicker has just made a hole in the skirt.

That is a pain @TragicMuse. There is nothing worse than making a hole with an unpicker.

😭

I hate it when that happens @TragicMuse. As in walk away from the sewing machine for six months-level of hate. I hope you’re taking it a little better than that.

I’ve made some changes to the Frankie trouser pattern, but when I tried on the pair I made recently I thought that instead of adding adjustments to adjustments I should perhaps just make a bigger size…so that’s my new plan. Trace a bigger size, make the adjustments I definitely need (extra length and a flat bum adjustment), baste the whole thing together and adjust the fit as I’m going along. The smaller size is almost perfect and they’re comfortable but they also show every little bump on my legs and that’s just not the most flattering. Fingers crossed this works.

Someone mentioned vintage sewing machines and summoned me!

I have (that currently work) - 1918 Singer 66, a 99k from a bit older, a 15k that was bought with all the Singer after-market gubbins to turn the treadle into an electric foot pedal (that one's currently in time out for delinquent sewing machines), a Singer 320k which is a beautiful green workhorse (I've 3D printed replacement cams for all the fancy stitches) and would sew to the centre of the earth with ease - if you hit a pin, the pin will bend in two while the machine keeps going.... and a bastard modern Bernina who is just out of the repair shop (again) that mum bought, couldn't get on with, so passed to me.

Also a New Home in the loft I've not got working yet and I nearly bought another vintage one the other day in the charity shop - they fascinate me with the history behind the machines, I adore how some of them look (the old black Singers particularly), and then it's like cats - once you have one - the others tend to find you!

I've stalled a bit in this hot weather, having to try things on to check the fit feels very unpleasant🥵
I recently finished this green drop shoulder top which I've been wearing. It's very loose & cool to wear. The neck binding could be better but I'll improve as I do more of them.

That’s a gorgeous green @MineThineYom. It really suits the style of that top. Which pattern is it?

I’ve cobbled waistband v2 together for my adapted allegros for my saguaro set. Not helped by the fact that I didn’t cut the first attempt away very cleanly. I’m actually really pleased with how it’s turned out. I don’t suit high waists or wide legs but by some miracle I’ve managed to achieve a wide legged look without being swamped by fabric and the extra length I put on the saguaro top means that I can pull it down to make a pseudo jumpsuit. I’ll attempt a photo later.

Next up is going to be a cobbled together skort using the LN Clearwater shorts as a base. I need to rummage through my Lycra collection as I’d like the two elements to match but don’t want to use swim Lycra unless I have to. I’m pretty sure I’ve got something suitable from a mystery box but I need to check the recovery.

Thank you very much @Jins 🙏🏻The pattern is butterick 5521, from 1991. I adapted it a bit; made the sleeves wider and the body more flared.

That's a very good looking top @MineThineYom I love the colour.

Sewing machine - i have one. A husqvarna viking H class E10 (it's on a shelf next to me). I've had it for... 8 years i think. Smooth, does what I need it to do. Was a bit clunky and skippy in recent years months until I opened it up and realised the volume of fluff and scruff clogging up underneath the feed dogs. Runs much better now!

Prior to that I had a 1970s singer, obtained free from Facebook marketplace. It wasn't great but did the job. For a while until it stopped working and I couldn't sort it. I gave that away to a lady who refurbishes naughty sewing machines.

And my first machine was inherited from my great aunt. It was a singer and came in a cupboard. It folded out and I loved the whole set up. I think it was a 1960s machine, maybe older. Had sat in her house for decades, then came to my mum for unknown reasons over 25 years ago. It sat in her garage for a few years, I used it once when I was about 20 to make curtains for her. That was the first thing I had sewn since leaving school (I had made a simple tote bag and a formal dress). Then it sat in the garage for an9ther 10 years until my parents visited me in my newly bought house and offloaded The Beast sewing cupboard onto me. That was 15 years ago, and what got me sewing! I made simple things as The Beast could only do forward and occasionally backwards stitches. Then it blew up, I donated it to the sewing machine repair lady (I think she wanted it for the cupboard) and got search8ng on Facebook for the replacement.

How I wish I had your confidence with servicing and repairing sewing machines @Hiddendoor
I have my grandmother's Bernina sport 801, still working very well as far as I can tell.

I’ve moved my sewing machine back to the living room in an attempt to stay cool. I did go up to the attic yesterday, where my usual sewing space is, to sort through my collection of patterns.

I can’t quite believe how many I’ve accumulated over the years…and how many have never even been tried out. I thought I was quite restrained in my pattern buying, but clearly not. I’ve now come up with a shortlist of patterns to make, so that was a very productive if hot session.

I have made a couple of tops, they fit quite well with alterations. But I would love to be able to alter the patterns before I even cut out.

I think the next logical step in my dressmaking journey is to start learning more about creating pattern blocks. Not sure what is the best way to do this, there is a lot of information out there.

I’ve ground to a halt since running into problems with my waistcoat. I’ve got some jerseys set aside to make some tops so I think I’ll crack on with those and maybe revisit the waistcoat in the autumn.

I've had the same thoughts, learn to make a bodice block, etc. I have watched some tutorials but not been able to motivate myself to actually do it.
I alter my patterns partly by altering the toile and then using that as a template for adjusting the pattern. Also by using other patterns which fit in the right way as a template. And generally just muddling through!

The toile for the ruched top pattern I purchased was not looking very flattering so sent that to the scrap pile.
I have been using AI a bit at work so thought can it give me instructions on how to make a shirred top with a peplum. Yes it can, 3 hours on the machine with my new favourite shirring elastic and I have part of my top made. Can’t wait to finish work tomorrow so I can get back to the sewing machine!

I know it's absolutely everywhere at the moment - but I'm on a Lane Pants kick because they just fit my butt so insanely well. And the definition of insanity - quilting a double quilt in 35 degree heat which someone was dumb enough to do yesterday as well.

I have been too hot to go anywhere near my fabric! I did manage a bit of hand embroidery yesterday which was nice. I'm thinking of making the style arc Montana dress this weekend

Too hot and too busy to sort through my stash for suitable skort fabric so I’m hoping to get on with that this morning. We’re off to the festival next weekend so it’s this week or possibly never for this project.

Two bra sliders have failed on bikinis I’ve made. Both from the same batch of clear plastic ones. One bikini has had a reasonable amount of use but the other was on its first wearing which is disappointing. So I need to find some better ones and replace them all.

@Jins I had a nearly new bra where a slider failed, so I sewed it at the length I usually adjust too - it was so successful that I’ve considered cutting the rest of the sliders off and doing the same! Procrastination and heat have so far stopped me.

@WWomble that’s not a bad idea for the sunbathing/pool bobbing bikinis and would save a lot of faffing around unpicking.

Hello , long time no posting here - life been v v busy .
Welcome to newbies , and loved the pattern matching on the shirt upthread! Seriously impressed !!
My new craft room is up and running , just about sorted all the craft stuff , but still trawling through material stashed away for the last couple of years .
I made the Muna and Broad Fifey pjs for my daughter . The fit was lovely , the pattern needed no adjustments . Can't say I thought too well of the instructions if you were a newbie , but all well for me . Just a slight head scratching on some of the construction - ( which I followed this time , but wont on the next time I make them ) why did I need to add clear stretch elastic on the shoulder seam , and the pocket edges when I am already using stretch CL ? No idea , didn't truly make a jot of difference to the finish , just added a tint bit of bulk .
It has been too hot this last week , but next up is t shirts for my twin grandaughters - I picked up 2 nice CL panels to make them , just need to decide which pattern - probably not my favourite raglan style due to the panels .
Then I am doing curtains for my daughter . I have made a lot of curtains over the years , but will be the first time making them with eyelets .
Re sewing machine - mine is a Pfaff Quilt ambition , bought new about 8 years ago . I find it perfect for 98% of my sewing , it just doesn't quite go through really thick seams easily , so sometimes have to hand crank . But I know not everyone liked their Pfaff ( PickaChew ? )
Previously had a Newhome non digital which I had for 30 odd years - passed it onto a friend when I got the new one .
Anyone used Style Arc patterns? - brain fried and cant remember . I am about to buy this as my next project https://www.stylearc.com/shop/sewing-patterns/lumi-knit-top-and-dress-multi-size www.stylearc.com/shop/sewing-patterns/lumi-knit-top-and-dress-multi-size]]]]

Thanks AI for the pattern instructions. If I was to make again, I don’t think I would bind the arms and neck edges. Or maybe a bit of shirring around the neck so if I use binding it sits flat? It just looks more finished with binding than turning a hem.
I need to work on my stitch in the ditch, or more like stitch in the river!

Yes, it was me that didn't gel with my Pfaff ambition, @bookbook - I'm much happier with the way my Janome machines work.

I've made a couple of style arc patterns. I'm wearing the Ethel top, at the moment - one of the last things I made with the pfaff - I really missed the all round stabilising effect of a proper walking foot for the bias front seams as the idt just distorted them.