Stitch and bitch thread #11. Where the puns are only sew-sew

[NutellaEllaElla]

For sewists old and new. Join the fun, let us know what you're working on.
I apologise for not having been around at all. I've been away all footloose and fancy free but now i'm back and have NO NEED TO BUY NEW FABRIC. I must use what I have.

@PickAChew
@Hiddendoor
@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie
@OperationalSupport
@Daffyyellow
@ShoAndSew
@kittykarate
@RainbowWife
@GnomeDePlume
@Twobluechickens
@123ZYX
@BlackAmericanoNoSugar
@CrimsonAlligator
@Just4thisthreadtoday
@Frumpyunicorn
@Jins
@Lifesingflowers
@Yalz
@sewsewsewyourboat
@bookbook
@YellowAsteroid
@MarmiteWine
@Castlerigg
@IDareSay
@NotMeNoNo
@Toyotatallula
@Crispynoodle
@Hiddendoor
@Rosenspants
@TashaTudor
@InMySpareTime
@Isabelle70
@SpryCat
@Funnelfa
@OperationalSupport
@ChoccyJules
@Mygreyhair
@Marcipex
@DiggoryVenn
@ClearHoldBuild
@50IsTheNew21
@Heavybuthopeful
@HollyBerryz
@Chuchoter
@Placemats
@TorturedParentsDepartment
@PrincessDonut
@Shirtyllama

My sewing group has stopped for the summer and I’m missing it!

I’ve almost finished my Fibre Mood Lola; just the side seams to do. It looks enormous so I’m going to baste them first and maybe bring them in a bit if it’s too big.

Turns out it looks enormous because it is! I have cut out a size 22-24 not a 16-18 because I highlighted the US size lines on the pattern, not the UK ones 😭

Oh no @twobluechickens but at least that way round you can recut smaller!

I have managed to finish a couple of Ashton tops using offcuts, in the next few weeks I want to complete a Donny shirt hacked into a dress, and also make the zadie jumpsuit ( I have made a toile so now ready to cut into the good fabric)

I’ve finally conquered fold over elastic on a Luna loungewear cami. I’ve been trying for years with this pattern. I think now I’ve cracked it I’ll push on and make a few more in plain colours to layer with other things.

Excuse the weird posture, viewed from a normal position it’s level all round. This was before I put the elastic in the shelf bra so I was pleased to see that it was quite bra strap friendly. I probably won’t bother with the shelf bra for future makes.

That looks great @Jins !

@Frumpyunicorn yes at least it’s that way around. Although the bigger size is a lot longer and I forgot to factor that in when recutting the bust darts, so they are a bit low, but I no longer care!

Someone on here really liked the McCalls M7969 pattern - can I have some sizing advice? Is it 'generous' or should I treat it as gospel. I measure out as an XL according to the chart, but I'm not convinced having seen the pattern pieces. Then again, I am terrible at estimating by eye!

That would be me @kittykarate, I’ve made two.

Sizing is pretty generous. I had to elasticate the skirt/bodice seam as the size I measured was definitely too big for me.

It’s still the dress I feel the best in. Those sleeves 😍

I'm pondering (but maybe will reconsider once I've laid everything out) maybe making the front bodice at an XL to give more boob coverage and chance of a larger overlap, and the rest at L. I'll let you know how it goes, it's on my to-do list after finishing off the tshirt I've been working on.

I’ve just checked and I made a size L. The photos are after I put shirring elastic along the seam and it’s a size 14 dress form with a 41” bust.

Pit to pit flat measurement is 54cm/21”.

They don’t have high bust measurements but it really needs it. Fitting to high bust is pretty critical for this as there’s scope for adjustments with the wrap front.

Oooh, that’s a very nice pattern indeed! I’ve added it to my shopping list 😊

I’ve just bought this fabric on Etsy. It’s cotton and I’m planning to make a cropped oversize shirt and some shorts.

Any recommendations for some pleated front shorts? Preferably A0 or PDF if possible as I use a projector. Thank you 😊

I’m tagging on here as I was in a previous thread and lost it. I’m a fairly novice sewer, started only a few years ago but love it. I’m now considering an overlocker (kind DH has offered me one for a big birthday coming up). Any recommendations? I’m probably leaning toward baby lock or maybe Bernette? I loved an airlock one I saw at the stitch show but they are very expensive!

my latest make was for my SiL as she liked one I’d made for myself. My only self drafted pattern from a dress I bought abroad on holiday a few years ago. I do enjoy sewing for others as much as myself.

Hello @Morningmorning ! Afraid I can’t help on the overlocker front as mine is a second hand Baby Lock that dates back to the 90s (although that’s a pretty good recommendation in itself!). I haven’t tried any others. I absolutely wouldn’t be without it though.

lovely dress @Morningmorning How exciting to be getting an overlocker. I have a basic brother overlocker which is easy to thread and does all I need.

I’ve been busy on swimwear again although there’s only one item as output. It took 3 goes to get the Rhodes (free with simply sewing) one piece right and now I’ve changed shape and size I’ve had to do it all again. However there’s only previous work paid off and I remembered to lengthen it sufficiently and got it 90% right first time. So now I have a basic pattern that can be used to check sizing on my other patterns.

Pics modelled by my trusty eBay dummy. Fabric was very cheap swim lycra for toile purposes but I’m happy enough to wear it in public if necessary.

I have the basic Janome overlocker - does me fine for what I do. Threading isn't impossible and you can most of the time do the pull-through for the non-needle threads. It does still sometimes have me growling. My mam has one of the basic Singer ones that she got for lidl/aldi. Oooh that's a bugger to thread.

i have a basic Juki overlocker and it's fab. Very solid. And threading isn't impossible (they have a whole series of YouTube tutorials showing everything it does and how to thread - very very well done)

The pull-through method works 9 times out of 10.

I’m extremely impatient when it comes to machines that don’t do exactly what I want. We’re talking chucking it out of the window kind of impatient, or at least not look at it again for a decade and bad moods for weeks…so knowing that, I went for a Babylock.

It’s been completely problem free since I bought it. People talk about the easy threading (agree with that), but what is not mentioned as much is that Babylock don’t have issues with tension. The system they use (automated thread delivery or ATD) doesn’t actually use tension to determine how much thread is needed, so I never have to change any of the settings. I think they use that system for all their machines, but worth checking if you’re considering a Babylock.

I have only changed thread a few times since I bought the machine, so the easy threading is nice but not really that important. But not having to faff around with tension makes the difference for me between actually using the machine and going back to French & flat-felled seams.

You may of course, be a lot more patient than me!

i am in the lucky position of having a sewing room all set up, that may be a consideration when picking an overlocker - they are bulky and heavy compared to a regular sewing machine

I have the most basic bernina. Easier to thread than faffing with knots and fairly trouble free. Next time I buy one, which may be a long way off, yet, I will look for a model with a blade that can be easily retracted mid-seam, for neater finishing when doing neckbands etc.

It weighs 9kg. I'm fairly weedy and can move it easily enough but the bulk makes it more unweildy to move than my 12kg main machine.

I think any overlocker is better than none. I've been battling on with a Lidl/Singer one for probably 10 years now, it's needed a few parts but still does the job. I was doing some lovely rolled hems on chiffon last night. I don't mind the threading, but anything easier would be a bonus. My local shop is a Bernina dealer so I was looking at a Bernina/Bernette when I replace it.

I had a second hand, think 20+ years old, Singer. It was tricky but I managed, broke the lower looper in lockdown and had a new Brother 4234d delivered - it’s noisier but much better finishes and threading is fine.

Overlockers have a bad reputation, they are trickier to get to grips with but don’t let that intimidate you. YouTube is very helpful for threading and troubleshooting.

I've got a brother 2104dav, it's their cheapest one but the sewing machine shop recommended it to me and I haven't found it difficult to thread after going through it on you tube

I have a Bernette coverstitch and based on my experience with that I wish I’d looked around a bit more. The trouble is that they are thin on the ground to see in person. I know Bernette is the lower end brand but it’s very flimsy for a £500 machine.

So I’d recommend looking at them IRL if possible.

I had a second hand Lidl rebadged singer before and indeed it was a bugger to thread but it was a solid little machine. If it hadn’t needed the timing sorting I’d probably still be using it. It wasn’t worth spending the best part of a new brother on the repair of the Lidl special.

I’ve got a Juki overlocker and I love it, I traded in my Janome as part of buying it so it was a good deal. It’s easy to thread, always easier to use the pull through method though 😊

Thank you all, really helpful advice. I’ve found there is a shop not too far away that stocks babylock machines so might go to have a look there at some point. I’m lucky to have space as we reorganised a room last year and I’ve claimed half of it as a sewing space so lots of space to store it without putting it away each time. My sewing machine is on a Horn cabinet table which is quite long.