Stitch and bitch thread #11. Where the puns are only sew-sew

[NutellaEllaElla]

For sewists old and new. Join the fun, let us know what you're working on.
I apologise for not having been around at all. I've been away all footloose and fancy free but now i'm back and have NO NEED TO BUY NEW FABRIC. I must use what I have.

@PickAChew
@Hiddendoor
@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie
@OperationalSupport
@Daffyyellow
@ShoAndSew
@kittykarate
@RainbowWife
@GnomeDePlume
@Twobluechickens
@123ZYX
@BlackAmericanoNoSugar
@CrimsonAlligator
@Just4thisthreadtoday
@Frumpyunicorn
@Jins
@Lifesingflowers
@Yalz
@sewsewsewyourboat
@bookbook
@YellowAsteroid
@MarmiteWine
@Castlerigg
@IDareSay
@NotMeNoNo
@Toyotatallula
@Crispynoodle
@Hiddendoor
@Rosenspants
@TashaTudor
@InMySpareTime
@Isabelle70
@SpryCat
@Funnelfa
@OperationalSupport
@ChoccyJules
@Mygreyhair
@Marcipex
@DiggoryVenn
@ClearHoldBuild
@50IsTheNew21
@Heavybuthopeful
@HollyBerryz
@Chuchoter
@Placemats
@TorturedParentsDepartment
@PrincessDonut
@Shirtyllama

@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie do you have an overlocker? It’s a godsend for gathering viscose. I have to check the settings every time and I never aim to gather too tightly as a bit of tweaking by hand is all that’s needed. Photo shows overlocker gathering on a kinjarling dress. The first photo has a wrap belt in the same fabric which is making it look like there’s a few weird pleats.

I impulse bought a copy of Simply Sewing yesterday as I really liked the dress pattern - Cotton and Chalk Morgan. So annoying to find that it has a zip as I hate wearing clothes with zips. I’m going to have a look at the pattern pieces today as I think that changing the fixed waistband for an elastic one may let me get away with a button and loop fastening at the back. The magazine wasn’t a complete waste of money as there’s a really useful camisole pattern with darts which looks like an excellent scrap buster

My sewing machine's bust and I can't figure out how to fix it (and it's in a cast iron table so don't want to try to take it out to the repair guy) - the bobbin case won't go in fully and I've had it apart about three times and can't figure out why... so I've totally lost my sewing mojo

@Jins
I haven't got an overlocker. I can mostly do gathers okay tbh, but when they go wrong they go very wrong!

@Jins that pattern looks similar to the Tilly and the Buttons "Bettine" dress, no zips and uses elastic around the waist. You should be able to adapt the pattern so no zip, depending on how close fitting the bodice is.

My sewing has picked up - i got some stretchy stuff from i think Fabric Godmother, not quite scuba and advertised as suitable for yoga clothes. I made a long sleeve crew neck top and a stretchy bra crop top. First foray into bra making and had to make a good chunk of adjustment - full bust adjustment, as pattern was for D cup and I'm G, then putting in some stitches at the side to bring in the under bust band but keep the fabric for the cup... I will wear it around the house!

Next is a pair of pyjama pants, traced from an existing pair. If I get the pattern right then I will be unstoppable, matching pyjamas for everyone!

Then I have fabric for two dresses, but I just completed a lovely flowy fake wrap dress. Ankle length, which i dont normally wear but it made me feel quite smart trying it on.

No photos, as always. I forget to take them as I go!

What fabric are you thinking of using for your (potential) Mitchell’s @twobluechickens?

I still haven’t made up my mind. The suiting option is actually starting to look attractive again. At this rate, it’ll be months before I sew something 😄

Thanks @Hiddendoor, there looks to be a reasonable amount of ease so it’s got to be worth a try. Which pattern did you use for the bra top?

I’ve just finished a toile of the cami pattern from my mag and it’s not great. Glad I did a toile really. I’ve discovered that Cotton and Chalk patterns do not do vanity sizing. I measured about right for a size 14 which in itself caused a harrumph as I’ve been making 12s in big 4 patterns recently. I made it in a bit of cotton lawn and it’s a nice fit under the arms, way too tight across full bust and gapes at the front. FBA required but I’ll have to decide whether to size down or not. On balance I have several other cami patterns that I’ve made often enough to do them in my sleep so this will go to the pattern graveyard.

I sent a load of patterns off for printing including Sinclair Poppy pants. My original stuck together pieces are falling apart. I’ve also sent the Sinclair Indigo swimsuit which looks to be a reasonably sporty one with princess seams and a three piece keyhole back so plenty to work with to get a decent fit. It looks to have reasonable coverage but then so did the sunstar so who knows what will happen.

@Jins its a fairly simple bra crop top from an Ottobre magazine. Almost princess seam front, forming the cup, back pretty simple not quite racer back shape.

I think wave and wild or patterns for mermaids (or those style of pattern companies) have similar patterns, I didn't want to buy one when I had something in the magazine. As usual with Ottobre, the instructions were a bit sparse and assumed higher skills than suggested... it worked out OK though!

I've just had a bunch of underwired bras give up the ghost on me and was thinking about making some full lingerie bras, but wanted to try this first. Lots of hacking about to keep the cup but reduce the...width? It's a start. Now I have a pattern i can attempt Molke style non wired bra tops.

@Hiddendoor I’ve made a few bralettes and sports bras over the last couple of years but keep going back to the Barret bralette (not ideal for larger cup sizes and Waves and Wild Superstar bra which goes up to an H cup and it gives great cleavage for a lounge bra. I adapted it to have straight rather than crossover straps but it’s still quite chunky and summer tips. I’m pondering a ‘proper bra’ at some point but I’ve really gone off wires and fasteners and too much structure.

A plain black cami top has been on my need to sew list for ages since my viscose Etty didn’t survive the second wash. I think it will be an Ogden. No point messing around with something new at this point

I have a bra along those lines planned. I'm allergic to latex so want no exposed elastic. I did buy a molke bra but it's about an inch too short for me and the gathering looks horribly lumpy through my clothes. I'm also not keen on the over the head style - I like to be able to whip a bra off without getting undressed when I get home and even though I'm supple enough to slither out of something quite tight, I have a rotator cuff injury that doesn't always approve and don't like messing my hair up! I'm thinking to incorporate some sort of plastic bikini fastening.

Hi all, newbie to the thread here - looking for some fabric and fabric shop recommendations. I’d like to make a pair of the swim style patterns Pearl pants in a nice plain chocolate brown or burgundy for autumn/winter. I’m thinking a wool suiting fabric is what I’m after as I want them to be a smart trouser for work but I don’t quite know what fabric type to search for online. My usual fabric godmother/Higgs & Higgs/fabrics galore don’t seem to have anything. Having a quick google throws up mega expensive cashmere/wool Italian fabrics. Hoping someone will have an idea of what I’m searching for in a more affordable option! Thanks for your help!

Welcome@Starryskiestonight

I don’t know whereabouts you live, but Abakhan’s (physical shop) is a great place to look for wool suiting. I’ve found some real gems in their bargain bins, including Italian wool, wool & silk mixes and linen suiting.

As it’s all end of line stuff, the colour options tend to be limited, but you never know, you may strike lucky!

I’ve never really seen reasonably priced wool suiting online, but may be someone else on this thread knows a source.

Ah thanks - unfortunately I’m near London so doesn’t work location wise. Wondering if a cotton twill is a decent fabric for a smart trouser? I’m looking to emulate something like the Abercrombie and fitch Sloan trouser which I imagine is polyester but would like to avoid a plastic based fabric where possible!

Croft Mill is great for bottom weight fabrics, @Starryskiestonight -searching the net for Gabardine might yield some alternatives to wool for you. Fabric sold as chino fabric definitely makes a smart trouser though it does fade in darker colours.

PickAChew thank you so much for that recommendation, exactly what I was looking for! Have ordered some samples from them so fingers crossed but at least I have an idea of the types of fabrics I can search for now. Much appreciated!

Hi all
only just back into sewing after an horrendously busy couple of months . Managed last week to cut out some pjs for my DGS ( growth spurt - he is now 5'8" and only 12 🙄) , and I am nearly finished the sewing . He likes raglan style tops best , and he is basically a small/medium mens size , so had to forsake the W&W top I have been making him for the last 6 years , and moved onto an Ellie &Mac straight fit raglan mens one . At least that should last!

@Starryskiestonight - may be worth looking at Fabworks - they do a lot of wool/suiting fabrics at good prices https://fabworks.co.uk/collections/wool-wool-blends/suiting.
Hoping to get back into regular sewing now autumn is pulling in

Ogden cami in black viscose now complete and unlike me I’ve taken my time. I know I only started this morning but it’s a super quick project. I’ve hand tacked seams, understitched properly etc. It was worth doing - this is very slippy viscose. I would still like to make one with darts for a slightly slimmer silhouette but Ogden just works so well for me that I’m better sticking with it.

Bra talk has inspired me and I’m moving a new bralette up the sewing list. I should make some trousers first but I’m still in summer sewing mode as I’m off to Malta on 23rd and I’m going to make another playsuit as I prefer them for beach coverups.

@CrimsonAlligator I’m not sure yet. I have some lovely dark teal chino fabric from the aforementioned Croft Mill which I think would work well. When I did a practice run a couple of years ago it was in a weird polyester fabric I found in my mum’s stash which wouldn’t press whatsoever. I love the mustard fabric the pattern sample is sewn in but mustard is absolutely not my colour!

I’ve finally cut out the Papercut Sera trousers in some cotton twill (Croft Mill again!) which feels like it will sew up nicely.

I was also going to suggest Fabworks for wool fabrics. Also worth trying Rainbow Fabrics (Kilburn) and Simply Fabrics (Brixton) as both have a great range of deadstock fabric.

@Starryskiestonight the fabric used in those Sloane trousers looks like it has a fair amount of drape (and yes, it’s mainly polyester)

Cotton twill is generally a more structured fabric, so trousers made from that will look different. Still smart, but different.

It may be worth having a look at Dalston Mill. They sell something called “chino soft twill”, 100% cotton and -as the name suggests- a little less structured than standard twill (but still a lot more structured than the fabric used in those Sloane trousers)

Dalston Mill also sell a viscose blend gabardine. That one is part polyester, but probably has some drape. Difficult to tell without seeing it!

@twobluechickens I love that mustard fabric in the sample too, but unfortunately that colour would go with practically nothing in my wardrobe. So sadly not the best choice for me either. Dark teal sounds like a solid choice!

I’ve decided not to use the twill from my stash, as it’s a heavy one and just a little too rigid for what I have in mind. I’ve solved the issue by going to the aforementioned Abakhan. Got some lighter weight twill (in dark grey), as well as a dark navy herringbone suiting and enough brushed cotton to make a cosy shirt, ready for winter. All I have to do now is get on with some actual sewing 😁

Just checked and my fabric is from Dalston Mill, not Croft Mill. The teal chino fabric is the soft chino twill you mention @CrimsonAlligator . Looking forward to cutting it out later; in fact I might get up early and do it now as I’m lying here awake anyway unable to sleep!

@CrimsonAlligator why did you go and mention Abakhan? I’ve been putting off going but now I’ve got firm plans to go today. I really need some black 4 way stretch jersey as all my favourite black tops are now grey and need to be replaced. I’ve had no luck buying jersey for specific projects online and I really need to feel and stretch it in person. I also need something medium weight for trousers.

I’ll probably end up with loads of viscose challis, some swim Lycra and some patterned jersey that feels nice. I have no self control in that shop.

I’ve been going through my patterns again as the drawer is full and I’ve found a couple that I ought to make up. Mostly dresses but goodness knows I’ve got plenty of viscose stashed away.

I haven’t been near any sewing in weeks, on account of moving house during school holidays whilst also working. I really need to get through some of this fabric stash. I have projects in mind but need time and space to do anything. I’m still stepping over boxes everywhere I turn.

Love your latest Luella, @RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie. I can’t seem to get hold of the pattern. My local craft shop has TATB but not that pattern. I might ask them when they’re ordering next, if they’ll keep me one.

@jins, it’s a dangerous place, but at least it’s cheap!

The 3 metres of brushed cotton cost me £8 in total. Minerva sell theirs for £12/ metre and it’s a nightmare to sew! The bargain bin suiting is about a 1/3, or even a 1/4 of what it’s sold for in other shops, but the main advantage is definitely just being able to go and feel the fabrics.

Out of interest, where’s your nearest? I tend to go to either Holywell, or Liverpool. DH finds the slightly surreal collection of quilting cottons in Holywell endlessly entertaining …if anyone is in the market for some Trump themed poplin, it’s the place to go 😂

The weather turning autumnal has spurred me on to a bit of sewing. I keep a seasonal garland in the archway between two knocked-through rooms and it’s now ready for autumn.
I’m especially pleased with how the mushrooms turned out, I used the selvedge from some chenille to make the gills and the frilly mushroom edge.

@CrimsonAlligator Chester is my nearest. Dangerously located near the bus interchange. I’ve been going to the Mostyn one for years, used to couple a visit with the Sunday Markets and car boot sales along that stretch of road but I lived in North Wales at the time and it was a short journey. Chester is small but pretty well stocked although I’m not sure they have rolls of jersey.

I’m leaving now - wish me luck 🤣