Stitch and bitch thread #9. I have pressing concerns

[NutellaEllaElla]

Welcome welcome!

I've not made anything for ages after I screwed up the same thing twice. I'm gonna have another blimmin crack at it though! I've reconnected with another hobby and work is seriously getting in the way of everything I want to do, darn it.

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@Lifesingflowers this advice about pattern sizing is essential.

When you are getting your measurements, do it in front of a big mirror or get someone to help. The tape measure needs to be at the right angle (normally level). It's easy to miss that the tape measure is drooping at the back and adding unwanted inches.

Youtube is an excellent resource but do watch the video through before attempting to sew along. I watched one where the presenter was constantly correcting herself cut along this line I mean sew along this line.

When I buy fabric for a project I always buy significantly more than the pattern suggests. This gives me room for cutting mistakes. If I don't make a mistake then I have spare fabric for my stash.

Keep hold of smaller pieces as well. I made myself a patchwork top out of a load of off cut fabrics. That top makes me so happy. It was 'free' and fun to make.

Love the ditsy set.

Thanks for the Ogden cami info @Rosenspants For some reason, facings seem much scarier than bias binding to me!

@Lifesingflowers I’d highly recommend the Tilly and the Buttons Jaimie PJs or the Safia trousers (the latter from her book) as a starting point. I found that following measurements meant they came out huge, but just doing my dress size (I’m a 14 which is Tilly size 5) came out perfect.

Question for the quilters - how do you use fabric panels? I went to Abakhan’s yesterday where they had the most amazing panels in their fabrics by weight section (example attached). Would you use this kind of thing whole? Cut it up? The example is about 30 by 40 inches, so kind of big! But it doesn’t look like the type of image that would benefit from being cut up, which is what Google is suggesting quilters do with this kind of thing.

I’m just interested. Didn’t actually buy any, but looked through many of these in amazement!

@CrimsonAlligator use it as the centre and add pieced blocks and/or a border around it.

@CrimsonAlligator Panels are great for kaleidoscope quilts. You need six of them, or seven if you want to have a whole panel in the centre. You do need to be extremely finicky at the cutting stage and make sure that they are lined up correctly, but otherwise it's a very dramatic quilt for an intermediate sewing level.

The picture below is one that I made for a friend, and there are a couple of links for how to make it.

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Donna Jordan has brilliant tutorials on YouTube including one on panels - even if the panels are different sizes.

GMTA!!

your quilt is lovely

Pattern ideas people!

I would like to make a short sleeved summer top, probably in linen. Thing is, I am struggling with my boobs in summer tops which are too sack-like so I definitely want one with bust darts and preferably some shaping below the boob. Also scoop neckline is best. Not too long in length either. Some fancy feature welcomed but not essential.

Do let me know if you know a pattern that fits this brief please!

I like the Itch to Stitch Santorini tank if sleeveless would be ok?

I'm struggling to find anything short sleeved and fitted, so will watch any other recommendations you get.

Ah, the princess seams on the ITS Santorini are really nice & would give great shape but yes, I do want some sleeves. I always think Itch To Stitch patterns look great but fear it's because the model they use looks great in everything & she really doesn't have my figure! I would like to see them on varying shapes - something pattern companies tend to be v good at.
I don't think what I want exists!

@Chewbecca if you look on the pattern details there are normally links to photos of the pattern testers, who have a wider range of body types. I love their patterns because a lot have different cup sizes available

@Chewbecca how about Sewaholic, the belcarra and the pendrell look nice shapes.

Hmm, thanks so much for the suggestion. I don't think the sewaholic ones are right for the boobs, they only go up to a 16, no darts and the necklines are quite high.
Nice sleeves.
I am planning to try a FBA one day but believe that works much better where there is a dart already.

I couldn't find a quick/easy top I liked so ended up hacking the Friday Pattern Company Square Neck top to have a round neckline.

Ooh, I quite like the square neck actually and I have made a FPC top before (Patina blouse) & was impressed. Most insta posts of the square neck are of the no dart variety so it's not easy to see how well it sits / hangs from the boobs. It's a contender.

@Chewbecca If you don’t mind a square neck top, how about about Liesl & Co’s laureles. It has the added bonus of princess seams & different cup sizes, plus it doubles up as a dress pattern. Quite tempted by it myself! https://oliverands.com/shop/laureles-square-neck-top-dress-sewing-pattern.html

Wow your quilt is absolutely gorgeous @BlackAmericanoNoSugar. Amazing work 🤩

I've just finished sewing a Fibremood Ines top today but sadly couldn't get it on over my boobs! I have a fairly small bust too. It's annoying because the instructions are to cut on your bust measurement!

I think the elastic piece at the back is far too small. I think I may be able to rectify it by adding a larger piece or removing it altogether. What a nuisance. Good job it was made with leftover fabric.

Ooh, yes Laureles top has great potential. Nice seams and cup sizes! Any neck except high is good! Not many people seem to have made it, but I have never heard of this company myself. It's quite new too. Now researching where best to buy this company from. Many thanks.

ETA - the Fold Line has it ✅

@Chewbecca I have a few Liesl & Co patterns, but not made any of them yet.The company was started by someone who used to design patterns for Ralph Lauren and Hillfiger, so she’s well qualified.

I’ve made the Liesl & Co Chai tee several times and have been coveting a few of her other patterns. She always looks very neat and classy when modelling her designs on Instagram.

Spent this evening bashing out a couple more Aiko tops - need to tweak the darts a bit for future versions but pleased with them so far. Planning to finish them (bias binding necklines and armholes, and hemming) tomorrow night at sewing club.

I’ve also almost finished my Paola jacket but it is huge on the shoulders. If I make it again I’ll have to do a narrow shoulder adjustment.

I made a Maison Fauve Salto top. I was sceptical about the difficulty rating when I got the pattern - intermediate difficulty for a sleeveless top? Really?! - but after unpicking the arm bands over and over again, I see what they mean. I ended up inventing my own method for attaching them. I’m sure theirs works beautifully in the hands of a more capable sewist, but not in mine! I really like how clean the insides look though, even with my improvised method. Will definitely make this one again (and take some of the volume out!)

The fabric is a single gauze, which I expected to be soft and fraying like hell. But single gauze turns out to have very little in common with double gauze. It’s stiff, almost a little bit rough and is ultra stable, especially for such a light fabric. Hands down the easiest fabric I’ve ever worked with.

I have just received a quarter inch foot and adjustable seam foot, no idea if they'll fit my machine as they're just cheap ones from amazon but I am so excited to try them later. I think the 1/4 inch one will be a game changer for quilting.

@Allthegoodnamestakken Check that your quarter inch foot is actually a quarter inch. Can you move your needle position? My Janome has a Janome quarter inch foot and an automatic quarter inch needle setting, it's not right for quilting which needs to be a scant quarter inch so I need to move the needle to the right.

One way to check is to cut 2" strips. Sew four of them together and there will be three seams that should use exactly half an inch per seam. Iron and measure and if it isn't 6.5" exactly then your quarter inch foot is off. An easier way, if you have the ability to move your needle, is to use a Perkins seam guide. https://www.thequiltshop.co.uk/perfect-piecing-seam-guide Line the edge of the ruler up against the quarter inch foot guide and then keep moving your needle until it goes through the hole, then make a note of the needle position.

One of my early quilts was a double Irish chain which is made from two blocks with different numbers of seams. If you don't do a correct quarter inch seam they don't go together. I trusted that my quarter inch foot was actually a quarter inch. Learn from my pain!

@BlackAmericanoNoSugar Thank you I will check, my needle does move but only between three settings. I don't generally do very fancy quilts usually just squares and half square triangles so hopefully even if its slightly off the fact every seam is off by the same will help.