Stitch and bitch thread #9. I have pressing concerns

[NutellaEllaElla]

Welcome welcome!

I've not made anything for ages after I screwed up the same thing twice. I'm gonna have another blimmin crack at it though! I've reconnected with another hobby and work is seriously getting in the way of everything I want to do, darn it.

@Daffyyellow
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@Tinuviel
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@SBAM
@InMySpareTime
@Jins
@CrimsonAlligator
@MontyDonsBlueScarf
@Bouncydog
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@Subolooo
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@GnomeDePlume
@Chewbecca
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@PickAChew
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@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie
@SheWasASkaterGirl
@Isabelle70
@Twwodoorsaway
@FloofyBird

You’ve taken me right back to my teenage years with that reference @RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie 😁

🤣🤣🤣 nice one @RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie . No, not only did I have trouble following the pattern, the fabric produced so much lint that it clogged everything including my eyes and my nose… and I’m still finding bits of said lint around the room from nearly a year ago.
Ah well… all I’ve managed to do today is pin the pattern pieces on to the fabric. Too hot. I have found a decent Sauvie sew along so maybe I’ll get less muddled this time.

That’s a nifty little tool Jins! @OperationalSupport I usually stretch elastic before sewing it. Depending on the elastic, that can make a big difference.

I made good progress on the Sew House Seven Everyday Slacks today. All that’s left to do is the hemming. I changed the pockets as the original ones are a little crazy - don’t know if it’s the depth or the angle of the original pockets, but my hands could barely touch the bottom. Also added flat felled hems, because that’s what you do when you’ve finally bought an overlocker, isn’t it…😂

Anyway, I’m really pleased with the (almost) end result. I already have plans for another pair in pink linen, unless I come to my senses before then. I’m not an “adventurous” dresser, so pink trousers would be pretty wild by my standards, but I REALLY want some for some inexplicable reason.

Added the collar for my jumpsuit at my sewing social tonight and ironically it’s the best collar I’ve ever made but of course it’s a wearable toile and I’ll no doubt bugger it up on the real thing 🙄

@CrimsonAlligator i'm a fairly utilitarian dresser but, when I've finished the black denim cargo pants I am currently working on, I will be making myself a raspberry pink faux jumpsuit in viscose linen blend, using the Opal Pants and the Bella Loves Rosie shirt patterns. Comfy, practical, a little bit swishy and very, very 💗🌺🏩🧶

Bravo!

I've been 'ok' doing the ( -10% + overlap) method for sizing elastic, even when I've oversewn it.

So if you had a 35 inch waist, you would subtract 10% (3.5 inches), and then add back your overlap (lets say, you overlap by 1inch ). So you'd cut your elastic at 32.5 inches.

I find it depends on the elastic. If it's wide and firm, I can't wear it much tighter than my actual waist on a average afternoon or else there will be days when it's very uncomfortable. Some is much softer, though, and I can snug it up a bit more.

HELP NEEDED! I’m making new covers for my garden chair boxed cushions, following a YouTube video. The presenter is glossing over how to manage the ends of the zip and I’m making a pig’s ear of it! What am I missing?

@nameohnameohname , you want the end of the zip to be on the inside so make sure it doesn't poke out through your seam when you sew it in. Then when you sew it in, make sure the zip is a bit longer than the opening. When you attach the zip to the seam allowance, it should be neat. And careful you don't sew over the zip pull. I've done that and it didn't go well. Check out any youtube video on sewing in zips for a visual tutorial. Hope that helps.

@NutellaEllaElla thank you for replying. The zip is inserted around the boxed edging before the seams are sown which is why I’m having trouble putting the seams in afterwards. I might put a tab on the end of the zip and see if that helps.

I would love to see the jumpsuits when they are done. I am really tempted by the Zadie despite having never worn one in my life. However I would also wear the dress Zadie too so might treat myself to the pattern.

I have finished my toile of the GBSB shell top, the facing and bust darts went well but it is too tight apart from the shoulders so I am going to size up for another toile. Which means that i will be back on asking how to adjust the shoulders in a few weeks... Also, a really silly question but where are the bust darts supposed to sit? Thanks

Not a silly question at all @Frumpyunicorn . This may help - https://www.threadsmagazine.com/project-guides/fit-and-sew-tops/qa-where-to-place-bust-dart-points

I like the sound of your pink co-ords @PickAChew. I’m so close to buying myself some pink linen…

I had the most frustrating day today. Spent most of the day unpicking seams and cleaning the iron after somehow melting the interfacing I was using. It was the right way up, so not sure what happened there. To top it all off, I don’t think the pattern I’ve been working on today is actually going to fit 😂 I won’t know for certain until I’ve added the sleeves, but I don’t rate my chances.

These are the pants I'll be making. Same fabric, different colour. I made the waist a little too high rise, even for me, on these ones, so I've removed that length again but adjusted the crotch curve as it turns out that my tilted pelvis translates to the fit of my pants as well as medical access to my more delicate parts. They also look weird because they're slightly cropped and I have rather short legs.

I've also used the extra deep pockets that come with the pattern because the standard ones are too shallow for my phone.

Zipper tab may be the way to go. But also use a zip that is about 5-10 cm longer than you need and pull the ends right over the bit you're sewing so they angle in (IYSWIM?) then cut off the ends

If the zip is plastic, when you cut the end off, melt the edges slightly with a lighter to stop them fraying and to stop the pull running off the end.

Great advice!

Can’t advise on zips I’m afraid. I haven’t seen one for decades.

Look what I picked up in a charity shop for 20p. Could you get more 80’s?!?

The bandeau will be adapted for stretch fabrics to make strapless bra/bikini tops. Hopefully anyway

I rather like those shorts.

Ah the joys of fitting trousers! Here are mine.

Free range slacks with a change of pockets, many inches added to the length, longer rise, shortened waistband and a redrafted back curve. These actually fitted reasonably well straight out of the packet (just too short) but all that did was encourage me to keep tweaking to get them to fit even better. There’s a reason why I only finish a project once in a blue moon…I’m thinking my next pair would look even better with some welt pockets in the back 🤔

I finally understand now why the original pockets on these were such a hit on social media @PickAChew. Big enough for a mobile phone! That makes sense. I just thought they were so deep that they’d end up accumulating all sorts of stuff!

@PickAChew there's a similar pair on peppermint magazine but they’d need lengthening
https://peppermintmag.com/sewing-school/skye-shorts/

I made a similar pair from a free pattern with a magazine about 4 years ago. Interesting to see how fashions churn round

The shorts are also quite similar to the Tinley from Love Notions too.

Speaking of which, I have a future planning pondering

When I was on my winter holiday I looked with envy on the people who had 'snow skirts' to put over their leggings. I've got some quilted, windstop fabric, but now uncertain how to proceed. I have 2 thoughts based on the Tinley straight skirt, maybe shortened

1. Make up the skirt , but put a zip from waistband to hem on one of the side seams. If additional freedom of movement is needed then I can just unzip from the bottom.
2. Hack the front panel so it is split into 3, and fit 2 short zips in the new splits.

They are cute but, tbh, I can't get away with flared shorts or pleats (big tummy, weedy legs!) and yes, they would need lengthening to just above knee length!

My shorts tend to be toiles for pants patterns I have in mind. Also a great way of using up fabric that an online store said would make a lovely blouse but which turns out to be like sack cloth, or in a colour that I'm not so keen on wearing next to my face.

As for zips, I spent this morning making a jeans style zip fly. I spent this afternoon removing as much of the zip as I could without interfering with stitching visible from the outside, as this fabric doesn't like being unpicked and turning it into a faux fly. It's a fairly light and soft denim a d, despite my best efforts, it ended up somewhat on the wonk.