Stitch and bitch thread #9. I have pressing concerns

[NutellaEllaElla]

Welcome welcome!

I've not made anything for ages after I screwed up the same thing twice. I'm gonna have another blimmin crack at it though! I've reconnected with another hobby and work is seriously getting in the way of everything I want to do, darn it.

@Daffyyellow
@rivercobbler
@bookbook
@FletchingStraight
@Tinuviel
@Karatema
@Brefugee
@kittykarate
@Greaterthanthesumoftheparts
@FriendsDrinkBook
@123ZYX
@SparkleHard
@FarEast
@Dellabob123
@Twobluechickens
@SBAM
@InMySpareTime
@Jins
@CrimsonAlligator
@MontyDonsBlueScarf
@Bouncydog
@Hoogieflip
@GonnaGetGoingReturns
@Subolooo
@SleepingisanArt
@GnomeDePlume
@Chewbecca
@Ingefae
@Rosenspants
@Cynderella
@PickAChew
@Wildernesstips
@Pastabest
@BlackAmericanoNoSugar
@Frumpyunicorn
@WickDittington
@Allthegoodnamestakken
@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie
@SheWasASkaterGirl
@Isabelle70
@Twwodoorsaway
@FloofyBird

I’ve got that pattern, @kittykarate I haven’t attempted it though. How did you find it to sew? Looks good!
Admiring the quilts, beach bag and style arc separates and feeling a bit rubbish as the Jemima dress is way too big and the alteration I tried was a bodge. It’s going in the charity bag. In better news, I scored some pretty poplin viscose for £2.50 a metre and will use it for a Sauvie sundress I think.

@Rosenspants It's not bad to sew - that was a Sunday's worth of effort, including trace, cut and sew. It's pretty clear on the instructions, and guides you through which bits need to be pre-finished before sewing together if you have an overlocker. I mean, there's a hidden zip, so that part isn't giggle a minute.

I’d be interested in knowing how you get on with the Heather blazer @nameohnameohname . It’s in my sewing queue too. What fabric are you planning to make it with?

I’ve not done any actual sewing this weekend, but did trace three patterns & made adjustments. Planning to cut the fabric this week, ready for sewing next week when I have a week off work. I very much doubt I’ll manage to sew up everything, but we’ll see.

In other news, I finally threaded my new overlocker! The stitches were terrible at first. I fiddled for ages with the dials but nothing made a difference… until I noticed one of the threads was broken. Once I’d sorted that, the machine behaved perfectly. I’ve never been so relieved 😅

You will probably make lots of mistakes, @CrimsonAlligator but you should learn from them. I eventually learned to make sure the telescopic thread support was up. The hard way, of course 🙄😂

Fab news @CrimsonAlligator.

Some lovely items have been posted lately.

I’ve spent ages trying to work out why my bucket hat pattern doesn’t include small sizes. Eventually I realised it’s because people were talking about Waves and Wild and I’d got Merchant and Mills. New pattern downloaded, traced and cut out ready for when I can be bothered. I’ve been staring at some uninspiring stretch fabrics for ages - think they’ll be next to be used up as pjs and underwear. I’ve got a small order on the way from Pound fabrics for lining fabric and some heavier weight viscose mix which I’m planning to make shorts with but other than that I’m still stashbusting.

I finished cutting out fabric for one of the patterns I have lined up today (Atelier Jupe Frida). I’m in awe of anyone who can trace, cut and sew a pattern in a single day. Just cutting that lot took me about 2.5 hours! I’m using some cotton lawn I’ve had in my stash for years, inspired by @Jins stash busting effort.

Next, I have the Friday Pattern Company Arlo lined up for cutting. Keeping my fingers crossed for that one, as I’ve seen a commercially made version of what I have in mind for £70. This is one case where homemade might actually work out cheaper.

I'm jealous of all the sewing I have not had time for weeks. I still need to hem my remy and make a peasant dress for my daughter. I don't have much of a fabric stash as there are not many fabric shops near me and apart from pound fabrics I haven't tried online as I am still not confident in my choices so I feel a trip coming up when I get paid.

I've decided that i'm not inspired by the fabric that I have. But I'm not allowed to buy more fabric while I have a small stash (self imposed ban). Snookered.

I’ve got a ridiculous stash but am trying to only use the fabrics I have until they’re all used up. Am trying a FBA for the first time (3.5” difference between high and full bust) because things just aren’t fitting me right.

@CrimsonAlligator I’ve made the Frida three times now, I love it.

Watching Sewing Bee has reminded me I have a big stash of sari fabric.

Got 4 fat quarter bundles from home bargains yesterday. Not sure what for!

I made my Remy Sunday a week ago. Really disappointing fit, large boobs pulling the centre section up higher, very wide and quite short. Also completely botched the hem. So this Sunday I cut it up, added a middle section of 7 inches, cut off the hem and rehemmed it. It’s much better but I’m not keen. I think it needs an FBA and my fabric choice, that I loved online, is disappoin reality (navy double gauze gingham in different sizes).

So, I’m still looking for a plus size pattern for a casual top in double gauze - any suggestions please?

@Daffyyellow - would this work ? I have made a couple for my daughter , and they are lovely and loose for summer https://www.ellieandmac.com/products/womens-batwing-tunic-dress-pattern

Remy is a good pattern to try a FBA on. Sizing down and doing that makes a huge difference to the fit if you have anything more than fried eggs.

For a good curved hem, you need to sew round lots of times. It takes an age but you're more likely to get a finished garment you will want to wear for a long time.
I do

1. Stitch all the way around at the first fold line. Set the stitches with the iron. Fold along the stitch line and press.
2. (Whether I do this one depends on the fabric) slightly bigger stitches (as you will need to unpick them) along the second fold line.
3. Big loose row of gathering stitches towards the edge of the convex curves.

Then press and fold along that second fold line, using the gathering stitches to ease the convex curves into concave ones. Pin as you go because this is your finished hem. When you have stitched it down, you will need to get rid of sets 2 and 3. Set 1 won't be visible so only remove them if you like making unnecessary work for yourself. They also help a fray prone fabric to survive the wash better.

I managed to avoid doing a FBA on my Remy by being fat enough to justify buying their Curve sized pattern, which has a larger cup size drafted in.

That is frustrating @Daffyyellow. I’ve looked at the Remy before and concluded it was never going to work for my body shape. Does it have any darts? It’s a bit easier to do a FBA if it does, but it doesn’t sound like that’s going to be enough to make it work for you if the overall shape is just not quite right.

My way of finishing a hem for a top is not too dissimilar to PickAChew’s. I tend to ignore the suggested hem line (I’m tall and have never encountered a pattern that’s too long!).

What I do is sew a line 1/4 inch from the edge of the fabric. I have a 1/4 inch foot which, as the name suggests, is perfect for this kind of thing. Press the fabric up over the stitching and then fold again and press. The hem this creates is slightly wider than 1/4 inch, so when I sew it down with my 1/4 foot it catches the edge perfectly. The original 1/4 inch line will be visible on the inside, but I don’t really mind that personally.

I use my overlocker to help me with hems. Whizz the bottom through the overlocker, then do a 1cm turn, press, turn 1cm again. It generally doesn't go wobbly and wavy unless it's a real bitch of a fabric. You kind of gain a stay-stitching type effect from the needle threads in the overlocker, so it stays more stable and doesn't wiggle around too much.

Ooh another thing to try on my new overlocker 🤩

I finished a quilt for for my cousin who got married last month. I started it a bit late which is why I didn't get it done before the wedding, but it was a pretty quick quilt to make. I used a fat quarter bundle, Willow by 1canoe2 for Moda, because I really liked all the colours and how they worked together. Usually in any quilting fabric collection there are a few colours that I don't like so I pick and choose, but this one was completely gorgeous. The colours are a bit deeper and richer than the photo, the sunshine washed it out a bit.

That is truly lovely, @BlackAmericanoNoSugar and the colours are glorious. I hope it's appreciated as much as it should be.

Has anyone seen the new bernina B990 that's being released? Yours for a deposit of just £500 🫢

Beautiful @BlackAmericanoNoSugar Puts my novice efforts to shame!

Wow, that Bernina! I like the laser dot so you can see where the needle will enter. I would find that very useful, much quicker than lowering the needle then having to adjust and lowering again. Also, 14 inches to the right of the needle is HUGE. I have eleven inches and I can get a whole quilt through that gap. The full price made me gasp a bit though.

Crikey blimey! £12,950 full price!

Just gorgeous, @BlackAmericanoNoSugar ! I don’t have the patience for quilting but I think they are such beautiful things.

That’s lovely @BlackAmericanoNoSugar. What a fabulous gift.

@PickAChew thanks for posting that Bernina link - makes me feel very thrifty indeed.

No sewing to report. My CLC delivery arrived yesterday so I’m going to do a bit of tracing but we’re away for a few days from today.

I'm wearing one of my remy raglans, today, in lightweight linen. Sorry it's a dark picture. I'm not keen on how dark a navy this fabric turned out to be. It makes me look really haggard, though I'm not sharing my turkey neck🦃. I love the way it hangs on me, though.