Where do you buy your sewing patterns?

[Marmaladegin]

I live in quite a remote area and I want to try sewing garments. I'm a reasonably confident sewer in terms of repairs and upholstery but no experience following garment patterns. I'd like to sew clothes for myself so starting off with simple, slightly boho style might be good, such as maxi skirts and dungarees... oh and a cloak for dd10, who is channeling hermione

Where would you recommend either in terms of pattern brands or online shops please?

I buy online from Sew Essential.

In terms of patterns it depends a lot on your body shape and style preferences.

When you see a pattern you like it's a good idea to search for the pattern number/name on Instagram and YouTube to get a sense of how it looks on real people.

For me the biggest issue is fitting around the bust; quite a few pattern companies really cut for a small-ish bust size so I have learned to avoid those and go for the ones who have a range of cup sizes.

The FoldLine has lots of indie patterns plus reviews and they also have a YouTube channel where they do weekly recommendations and pattern round ups.

The other channel that I have found very helpful is Lauren from the fabric shop Guthrie and Ghani who has a YouTube series on her favourite patterns and how they fit.

I buy from a range of places but I always buy paper rather than PDF.

I buy mostly pdf patterns and then have them printed - I find it easier to organise online files, and also like being able to reprint if I change sizes. There are so many great indie pattern companies about, and generally I find they are much better with detailed instructions than ‘big 4’ pattern makers.

if you are looking for a cloak pattern check out twig and tale. Other pattern makers that I generally really like and have good instructions include deer&doe, closet core, true bias, grainline - might not be to your taste as I am not very ‘boho’, but maybe a good starting point to explore. Instagram is great for finding new patterns and getting maker reviews. Guthrie &Ghani also do a monthly box (think you can order past boxes as well) which include everything you need for a pattern as well as some very helpful videos. They are also one of my top picks for dressmaking fabric- lovely selection, always great quality and good value for money.

If you want to practise, I've used free patterns from here https://so-sew-easy.com/free-sewing-patterns The instructions seemed clear and straightforward (I made shorts).

I get mine off eBay! I started with clothkits to build my skill, and then got the 'sew simple' patterns off eBay.
I found cloaks surprisingly challenging, so maybe start with skirt and a waistcoat as the waistcoat will help with a cloak, it's putting the darts in for the shoulders which I found tricky. My first cloak attempt = lopsided hem, the second had one shoulder slightly narrower than the other 🥴. Third was fine!

Second hand / vintage, although check the measurements rather than the sizes, which changed to reflect body shapes. Depends on the look you are going for and ebay, etsy is good.

Ok these are some very helpful starts, thank you everyone. @orangejuggling I'm also of the not-small-bust variety so that's useful to know!

@Labraradabrador where do you have them printed?

I would second the recommendation for the Fold Line. There's also an excellent Fold Line Facebook group where you'll see recommendations for patterns, fabrics and how to adjust for your body shape.

I wonder why you had trouble. Cloaks are easy ime- anything from half to a full circle with a small cut out for the neck. No need for a pattern, just draw your circle straight on the fabric with a fabric pencil on a piece of string. Darts aren’t necessary.

I generally buy PDFs, print onto A4 paper (check the test page measurement is correct), tape together and trace onto Swedish tracing paper which is lovely and flexible. As a PP said, with a PDF you can reprint or re-trace for different sizes. I use a variety of sites but one favourite is The Assembly Line which has very detailed instructions.

I get pdf patterns from Made4Mermaids, Ellie&Mac and Patterns For Pirates mainly. You can either print them yourself on a4 paper then stick the pages together and cut out the pieces or you can send them to a printer who will print them on A0 pages and send them back. That would be about £2 a page depending where you get it. Lots of pdf patterns will have layers meaning you can just print the sizes you need.

For your daughter's cloak have a look at waves & wild they did have a cloak! They also have clothes sewing patterns too (heydays dungerees) - PDFs to download and print at home or send to printers to print for you.

Slightly alternative- look at Mother Grimm patterns - again PDF - so print at home/download and send to printers

Also look at Ellie&Mac, some designs are ok, but some are great - depending of course on your own tastes.

I use patternsy and found them to be very customer oriented, but there are loads of places now that will print for the sewing market (usually using thinner paper which is helpful for matching grainline or repeat patterns as can see through, also easier to store)

and don’t be afraid of alterations - one of the best parts of sewing your own clothes is the ability to deviate from standard sizing and make clothes that actually fit your body. Bust adjustments are actually pretty straightforward, and once you have figured out a couple of patterns it is really easy to adjust any new ones.

I have found Liesl & Co very good for bust adjustment - their patterns come with pieces for B C and D. One less think to think about when you are starting out. Anything with a boxy style (think Toast or Merchant and Mills) tends to be a nightmare on me!

Also second the recommendation for Guthrie and Ghani fabric, they are excellent. My rookie sewing involved using quilting cotton for clothing and it took a while to figure that one out! (Too stiff usually).

@orangejuggling Liesl and co has brilliant drafting, and definitely helped me up my game with cuffs / collars. I think you definitely see a difference in her patterns as a professional (not self taught/ outsourced) pattern maker. Her style is more classic / less trend driven, but everything I have made from her has been of an exceptionally high finish.

I tend to buy them at the charity shop, but I have a little experience adapting them. Patterns are very expensive nowadays!

I've bought several vintage sewing patterns off eBay

The other thing to bear in mind is pattern sizing. It seems obvious, but do compare your measurements to those on the pattern, because they are often wildly different to the dress size you would pick up in a shop. Some pattern companies build in a lot more ease than others - you can usually see this in the finished garment measurements.

I rummage through the sewing magazines each month and buy whichever one has a pattern I fancy.

New Look patterns are half price ATM so £5.24 each - I've just had an email from Sew Essential.

I use the fold line which others have mentioned. They are printed on paper that's very easy to work with.

When choosing a pattern for yourself think about any existing clothes you have and what shapes you like wearing and suit yo

...and what suits you. Best to go by the line drawing diagrams in the patterns than the pictures as they can look very different on the models. I would say practice on a few cheaper patterns first. And look at instagram if there is a pattern you like as if it has a pattern tag, there are usually lots of real people who have made it, so you can see what works, tweaks they make etc. enjoy your sewing

The Foldline cover everything.

Their social media focuses on Indie patterns which tend to be size inclusive and often easier to make.

But they also stock all the Big 4, and brands that do different cup sizes if that is more your thing.

I always buy pdfs and then either print on A4 and stick together, or sometimes get them printed (The Foldline, Guthrie & Ghani, Fabric Godmother, amongst others, all offer a great printing service).

I like Friday Pattern Company for nice simple designs, Closet Core for beautifully drafted patterns with super-clear instructions, Tilly & The Buttons has the best instructions (but her style isn't to everyone's taste), Cashmerette is apparently good for bigger busts (I don't have one, so have never used them!). Sew Over It has a lot of vintage-inspired designs. Fibremood are good value and often have bundle deals.
The world's your oyster these days.

I used a Simplicity pattern recently (one of the so-called 'big 4' pattern houses) and found the instructions MUCH harder to follow than the many independent designers out there now.