Stitch and bitch thread #8. It’s all starting to unravel

[NutellaEllaElla]

Welcome back and welcome for the first time to any newbies. As we go back into autumn/winter mode, sewing days are more and more appealing as the wind gales outside. I enjoyed looking back over the last thread, there were so many beautiful patterns (so little time), such beautiful makes, that thread is an absolute goldmine for inspiration. Also such wisdom from you lovely lot! Thank you. I couldn't do it without you actually as no one around me sews and you have imparted such great advice, hints and tips.

@PickAChew
@kittykarate
@TragicMuse
@SBAM
@pastabest
@Jins
@Blackamericanonosugar
@CrimsonAlligator
@SleepingisanArt
@dubyalass
@Brefugee
@InMySpareTime
@Rosenspants
@rivercobbler
@Karatema
@bookbook
@Sewingdufus
@FletchingStraight
@SideWonder
@CarolynKnappShappy
@Chewbecca
@eldorado02
@PrincessofWellies
@123ZYX
@Storynanny1
@Tinuviel
@Wildernesstips
@Dellabob123
@florentini
@longpathtohappiness
@twobluechickens

Random question from a newbie sewer...I made a woven top recently with facing and fusible interfacing. What does the interfacing do and would it matter if I didn't use it? Thanks

@FloofyBird the interfacing strengthens and stabilises the facing, which gives a structure to help the main garment sit/lie nicely. It’s kind of a foundation.
Whether you can skip interfacing depends on your fabric. I’d chance it in something super stable like a cotton drill, but in something like viscose or double gauze that’s lighter I wouldn’t.

Thanks. I'm about to sew some cotton tops. I was going still do the cotton facing but just not use the interfacing, so I might get away with it?. I also have some viscose but guess I really must use the interfacing for that.

Almost finished my latest pair of Ash jeans, just the button to add and then they'll need pressing.

Also cut out a Tessuti Romy top (have decided to skip the interfacing as it's a wearable toile) and a Meryl blouse from Les Lubies de Cadia as a test run before making the full jumpsuit. It's quite a complicated construction including princess seams which I've not done before so I'm looking forward to it.

@FloofyBird I make a lot of cotton tops and don't tend to use interfacing on the facings.

Got the two tops I was making for DM finished yesterday. They are a birthday present.

I really need to work on some stash busting projects.

Sew house seven have a sale on at the moment so I’ve bought the Willow wrap belt which should help me do a bit of stash busting. I reckon if I do one in black it’ll effectively double my outfits on hols 🤣

Yet again some lovely fabric @GnomeDePlume

Thank you @Jins I was worried I had frightened everyone off the thread with the brightness of the colours. DM's eyesight is failing so she now likes bright colours.

I'm making a bag for DM and needed a zip. I was very disappointed to discover that Zip World was not a retailer dedicated to zips.

But zipperstation is! It has all your zipping requirements!

I love brightly coloured stuff! The greyer my hair goes, the more I want to wear bright colours.

Feedback from friend's little girl on the jumper I made her: she wore it all day and refused to take it off for bed. Has now requested one in red. So now to find some suitable red sweatshirting...

Thanks @GnomeDePlume I used cotton poplin and it seems fine without the interfacing. . I have a huge amount of excess fabric above my bust though, so a whole other problem instead 😂

@FloofyBird which pattern are you using for your top?

If it fits at the bust but you have excess fabric above the likelihood is that you need to size down and do a full bust adjustment. The trouble with the big 4 patterns is that body measurements are a bit sparse and garment measurements even more so. Indie patterns are better for that generally. Most tell you to pick a pattern based on your upper bust measurement and adjust for your sewing cup size (not the same as bra cup size)

I have a collection of garments that I rarely wear because of the poor fit at upper bust so you aren’t alone.

Hi Floofybird - the excess fabric can be many things, and probably why I sew in stretch materials so much. It's generally because you needed a FBA rather than just picking the size that matches your bust line size. If you're small of back and even just middling of nork it can introduce fit issues.

Another bit of stash busting today and the random metre of ITY that I bought to see what it was like to sew is no more. I’m not really a leopard print person but cheap is cheap 🤣

LN Forte view C with mid length sleeves and no sleeve frill because I’m not keen. Best T shirt I’ve ever made and it’s going on holiday.

I made a summer skirt from my grandmother's old tablecloth, now all I need is the summer to wear it in!

I have sewing plans this month and I'm writing them down for accountability

1. Finish my Pona Jacket. It's still in the craft cupboard with barely any seams done and this is the perfect weather for it.
2. Make something with the 3m of not quite stretchy enough for tshirts jersey I have that has a really cool galaxy pattern on. Possibly a Pona Jumpsuit
3. Consider what I'm going to wear when the weather gets warmer and I'm working at home. Maybe take the Love Notions Tinley skort pattern for a test drive with some peach jersey that I don't love.

Great pics.

Love the tablecloth skirt!

I’ve made a dress out of beautiful William Morris-esque fabric. The sewing is fine and it fits well but unfortunately I think the colour is a bit too insipid for me.

Hi everyone, I have had a lot on these last few weeks so not got much sewing done. I have to do a beachcomber for me and another remy before I go away at the end of May.

@Jins thanks for the tip about the sewhouse 7 sale. I have a question about the remy top and romy dress. I want to make my remy into a dress with gathered skirt which is what the romy is, however I am not sure whether to buy the romy pattern or just make it up given I already have the top, and also I want inseam pockets and not the patch ones. What would you suggest?

@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie can you add embroidery or appliqué to pick out details in the fabric and detract from the insipid colour?

Thanks for the suggestion but it’s already patterned and also those ideas are definitely beyond my skill level right now. I’m sure that a leather jacket and red lipstick will help though!

@Frumpyunicorn i don’t think the Romey dress has bust darts but other than that there isn’t a lot of difference. I’d be tempted to hack the Remy. If you measure from the bottom of the dart to the level you want the waist to start you could add a gathered skirt fairly easily. They are only two rectangles after all. You can put any inseam pocket into the skirt seams.

I always take the view that any dress can be a top and any top can be a dress. The Romey is a useful pattern though and you’d be making it again if you’re like me so if you aren’t comfortable hacking then now is a good time to buy

It's simplicity 9133. I was watching a YouTube video about sizing and ease and when I looked it has 11 inches of ease at some points, 11! Although it was only 4.5" in the bust. I'll try sizing down thanks.

Last time I looked at bust adjustments I wasn't sure I I needed one as although I'm a G cup the difference between my upper bust and bust wasn't that much. Or does that differ with different patterns too?

Thanks @kittykarate my previous tops have been in stretch and I'm thinking I much prefer that now lol. Easier to fit.

I’ve got Simplicity 9133. It was free with a magazine a couple of years ago. I think I did a brief measure on the paper and decided it wasn’t going to fit. 4.5” on the bust is a bit too generous for me and as you say there’s potential for loads of surplus material above bust.

I’ve only just got the hang of bust adjustments. I’ve got about 2” difference between high and full bust which should mean that I don’t need to adjust but I’ve been getting much better results from sizing down and doing a FBA. It was a bit of a surprise as I’ve got wide shoulders and a broad back

I like your accountability idea @kittykarate so:
in May I will 1. Finish the half made baby blanket for my newest nibling due in May. 2. Make some progress on my gambit pinafore. 3. Make a priority list of the other things I want to make and then start!

@FloofyBird yes, stretch can be a more forgiving way to fit clothes than woven. I’m a G cup too, and upper bust to full bust is only 2” with a bra on, but I read you should take the upper bust measurement without a bra, and the full bust with bra, which takes my difference to more like 3.5” and explains why an FBA does work if I get it right.

Looks like I might have to delve into learning how to do a fba then. Arghh

@Frumpyunicorn i think I muddled my patterns a bit. Remy doesn’t have bust darts does it? 🤦‍♀️ I think I had Sauvie in my head.

It makes the hack easier though, especially since you’ve already made a Remy and can use it to measure your preferred waist position.