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Stitch and bitch thread #8. It’s all starting to unravel

946 replies

NutellaEllaElla · 24/09/2023 17:36

Welcome back and welcome for the first time to any newbies. As we go back into autumn/winter mode, sewing days are more and more appealing as the wind gales outside. I enjoyed looking back over the last thread, there were so many beautiful patterns (so little time), such beautiful makes, that thread is an absolute goldmine for inspiration. Also such wisdom from you lovely lot! Thank you. I couldn't do it without you actually as no one around me sews and you have imparted such great advice, hints and tips.

@PickAChew
@kittykarate
@TragicMuse
@SBAM
@pastabest
@Jins
@Blackamericanonosugar
@CrimsonAlligator
@SleepingisanArt
@dubyalass
@Brefugee
@InMySpareTime
@Rosenspants
@rivercobbler
@Karatema
@bookbook
@Sewingdufus
@FletchingStraight
@SideWonder
@CarolynKnappShappy
@Chewbecca
@eldorado02
@PrincessofWellies
@123ZYX
@Storynanny1
@Tinuviel
@Wildernesstips
@Dellabob123
@florentini
@longpathtohappiness
@twobluechickens

OP posts:
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Chewbecca · 24/02/2024 22:21

@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie I have found making clothes is often more expensive than buying - fabrics and patterns are not cheap! I have no top tips.
On the sizing, make sure you measure yourself and pick the right size based on those and the finished garment measurements, always ignore the "dress size" section on patterns - they vary so widely.

I have finally chosen my next pattern to make at my next dressmaking class - Friday Pattern Company Patina blouse. I wanted to learn a new skill - buttons for this one. Still looking for fabric myself.

NutellaEllaElla · 25/02/2024 08:02

I'm combining my hobbies today and am planning on making some padded drawstring pouches to protect my fancy new camera lenses. I bought a pair of jeans for £1 from a charity shop bin which i'm going to cut up and we already have shoelaces. I've got wadding as well, no idea what i'm doing with wadding. I'm hoping to quilt it to the denim?

OP posts:
RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 25/02/2024 08:06

Thanks @Chewbecca When I measure myself and then do the size the pattern says, everything is coming up far too big, annoyingly.

NutellaEllaElla · 25/02/2024 08:16

@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie yeah, I often found that. Try checking the finished size of the garment. Some patterns include a lot of ease, which is not my preference. I also look for reviews, Instagram tags, the patternreview website, facebook groups to see what other people say about what changes they made.

OP posts:
RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 25/02/2024 08:37

Thanks @NutellaEllaElla

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 25/02/2024 08:39

Has anybody made the Tilly and the Buttons Indigo dress? Sleeves need to be my next challenge, and the Tilly instructions are so good that I think it might be a good way to ease in.

twobluechickens · 25/02/2024 21:04

Pleased to discover that my local fabric shop is doing a monthly social sew! I was thinking of setting something like that up so they've saved me a job. Looking forward to meeting some other sewing types locally.

Allthegoodnamestakken · 26/02/2024 11:00

Hello all! machine purchased and I am very happy with it, spent Saturday afternoon sewing endless straight lines and playing with the different stitches. Also did some following curves drawn on scrap fabric which was harder than I expected but I slowly managed so thanks to whoever suggested that!
Sadly no time to play on Sunday but I did download and print out the pattern for the made by rae ruby dress/top. Going to start with the top as it isn't very much fabric and other than making bias tape it seems quite simple.
Decided the advice here of if I want to make clothes start with clothes was good advice! I have two different cottons or a viscose to give it a go with. Fabric here is pretty cheap for me to get but the quality isn't the best and its quite limited. I am excited for the next time we travel to a different city on the coast where I know I can easily get my hands on beautiful Indian printed cottons.

InMySpareTime · 26/02/2024 13:20

Pic of my dungarees, I know the fabrics don't match at all, but it's really comfy and the pockets behaved so I'm happy.

Stitch and bitch thread #8. It’s all starting to unravel
Brefugee · 26/02/2024 16:15

I love those!

PickAChew · 26/02/2024 17:50

The fabrics tone really well, @InMySpareTime. They look great!

PickAChew · 26/02/2024 18:05

What about simplicity 8595, @jins?@jins

(how do I keep doing that?)

There's a chance with viscose jersey that it will always cling and will stretch under its own weight but this pattern is designed for stretchier knits.

Jins · 26/02/2024 18:39

That’s a useful pattern @PickAChew and could be a contender. I’m not sure it’s viscose jersey. It’s not particularly heavy or hugely stretchy and you wouldn’t want to stretch it fully as the colours lighten too much.

Chewbecca · 26/02/2024 19:36

I love dungarees and those are splendid ones.

Allthegoodnamestakken · 28/02/2024 09:06

Hello all,
spent yesterday evening cutting out my printed pattern and cutting and pinning the yoke of the top. It looks tiny! I measured myself and chose the corresponding size but I am really not convinced it will fit. Wondering if I should trust the process or start again while I still have enough fabric- haven't yet cut out the body.
Pattern is Made by Rae Ruby

Brefugee · 28/02/2024 09:12

if the fabric wasn't hideously expensive, I'd push on with it, and use it as a kind of toile. Wearable if it fits, and a help to adjustments if it doesn't.

If the fabric was expensive, or you really like it and can't get more, it might be worth getting some cheaper fabric (or an old duvet cover, sheet, whatever) to try the pattern out first.

Jins · 28/02/2024 09:19

Was the pattern printed to the correct size? Measure the test square to check. I’ve had a few that printed out to the wrong scale

Brefugee · 28/02/2024 09:29

oh that is such a good point, I've been caught out like that before.

Meanwhile: my Sewing machine has been in the workshop for 3 weeks and counting (they are hugely busy. It seems to be a growth industry if anyone is looking to retrain)

kittykarate · 28/02/2024 11:16

I've not made the Made by Rae Ruby @Allthegoodnamestakken but I have made other woven patterns by them (mainly trousers) and they are pretty true to size. So, if you've just pinned and not cut yet, there are some things to sanity check

Did you print it at home? Double check the test square is correct, there are some weird things that can go wrong around scaling when printing pdf.

Go back to the size chart. Make sure you are looking at the correct table - usually they will have 2 tables, one for 'finished' garment, and one headed something like 'Body Measurements' that you use to select the size. The finished garment for a woven will have a large 'ease' relative to your body measurements to allow for boring things like breathing and sitting down, so if you used the finished garment table to select the size then you will have something tiny.

Next, get someone to help measure you around the torso along the upper bust, and double check that measurement with the yoke pieces that you've printed (add the width of the 2 yoke pieces, subtract the seam allowance), and see if they would actually fit. (note previous comment about ease - you will expect the pattern pieces to be bigger than your body measurements) Ah, just looked at the picture, the yoke doesn't go under your armpit. You get the general principal of comparing body measurements with pattern pieces though.

Look on the pattern companies website and see if there are any errata - sometimes there are mistakes

If it still doesn't make sense, don't cut out your nice material, get an old bedsheet and give it a go!

kittykarate · 28/02/2024 11:17

Also I've just added that pattern to my wishlist.. it's something that I would probably make and wear!

Allthegoodnamestakken · 28/02/2024 12:01

Thankyou all, I checked the measurement square with a ruler in the print shop and have double checked my measurements and the size I chose and it should be fine. Perhaps I am just not used to seeing clothing in pieces and can't picture the size properly.
The fabric was pretty cheap and I can easily get more so going to continue on and see what happens. My actual sewing is so poor it probably won't be wearable anyway it was just a practice.

Frumpyunicorn · 28/02/2024 19:14

@Allthegoodnamestakken the first time I cut pattern pieces out I was convinced they looked too small and often they were actually a bit too big, I think it takes some getting used to how pattern pieces look. Saying that I have used an old sheet to start just to be on the safe side!

Allthegoodnamestakken · 29/02/2024 10:49

@Frumpyunicorn I think you're correct, I sewed the two pieces of the yoke together yesterday evening and my head fits through the hole and it sits perfectly on my shoulders so it was just off perception on my part.

Jins · 29/02/2024 10:53

Just about to trace and adjust the rash guard pattern. Thinking of putting these together. Was originally planning navy and the light blue but now considering these two. I like something visible for sea swimming

What do you think?

Stitch and bitch thread #8. It’s all starting to unravel
PickAChew · 29/02/2024 12:46

Even though the blue isn't exactly represented in the stripe, it tones with the darker blue and they don't fight with each other - neither dominates. I think they will work. Try them in different lights to be sure.

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